Completely dead
No display, no indicator lights, and no response from any button.
Start here: Start with house power, GFCI protection, and the dishwasher power connection.
Direct answer: When a Samsung dishwasher will not start, the usual culprits are a tripped breaker, a door that is not latching cleanly, control lock being on, or a stuck touchpad. Start by figuring out whether the dishwasher is completely dead or powered up but refusing to run.
Most likely: Most of the time this comes down to power at the outlet or junction, the door not pulling the latch switch closed, or the controls being locked or confused after a power glitch.
First separate the lookalikes. If there are no lights at all, treat it like a power problem until proven otherwise. If the panel lights up but nothing happens when you press Start, focus on the door latch and control settings first. Reality check: a dishwasher that looks closed can still be just shy of latching. Common wrong move: slamming the door harder and cracking the inner trim instead of checking for a rack, utensil, or seal issue keeping it from seating.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a control board. On this symptom, boards get blamed a lot when the real problem is power, latch alignment, or a locked control panel.
No display, no indicator lights, and no response from any button.
Start here: Start with house power, GFCI protection, and the dishwasher power connection.
The panel wakes up, selections change, but the cycle will not begin.
Start here: Check for control lock, then focus on door closure and the dishwasher latch.
You hear tones or see blinking lights when pressing Start, but the wash cycle never takes off.
Start here: Look for a door not fully latched, a stuck key, or a control reset issue.
The dishwasher runs only if you lift, press, or hold the door a certain way.
Start here: That strongly points to door alignment or a failing dishwasher door latch assembly.
A dead panel with no lights usually means the dishwasher is not getting power, even if nearby kitchen outlets still work.
Quick check: Reset the dishwasher breaker fully off and back on, then check for a tripped GFCI outlet under the sink or on the countertop.
If the panel lights but ignores Start, the controls may be locked or hung up after a brief power interruption.
Quick check: Look for a lock icon or hold the marked lock function long enough to disable it, then try a simple cycle again.
The machine will not start a wash cycle unless it sees the door shut and latched. A slightly proud rack, utensil, or swollen seal can keep it from making that last click.
Quick check: Open and re-close the door slowly. Listen and feel for a firm latch click, and see whether the top rack or silverware is keeping the door from seating.
Some panels light up but one key, often Start, does not register or acts erratic.
Quick check: Press several different buttons. If some respond normally but one key does not, the touchpad or console is more suspect than the latch.
This keeps you from chasing the wrong problem. A dead panel and a powered panel that will not run are two different jobs.
Next move: If the dishwasher wakes up and starts normally, the issue may have been a temporary control glitch or incomplete button sequence. If it stays completely dead, treat the next step as a power-supply check. If it lights up but still will not run, skip ahead mentally to latch and controls.
What to conclude: You are narrowing the problem to either incoming power or a start-permission issue like lock, latch, or touch controls.
No lights at all usually means no usable power to the dishwasher, and that is more common than a failed main board.
Next move: If the panel comes back to life after a breaker or GFCI reset, run a short cycle and watch it for a few minutes. If the breaker is good and the dishwasher still has no lights, the problem is likely in the dishwasher power connection, door switch circuit, or controls.
What to conclude: A restored panel points to interrupted power. A still-dead panel means you have ruled out the easy outside causes and the diagnosis is moving inside the dishwasher.
A locked or hung control panel can make the dishwasher look broken when it is really just ignoring the Start command.
Next move: If the dishwasher starts after unlocking or resetting, you likely had a control lock setting or a temporary software hiccup rather than a failed part. If the panel responds to some buttons but still will not start a cycle, the door latch or a bad key on the console becomes more likely.
A dishwasher that has power but will not begin often is not seeing the door switch close, even when the door looks shut from the outside.
Next move: If it starts when the door is pressed or after clearing an obstruction, the latch was not fully engaging. If the door closes firmly and the machine still will not start, the latch switch or touch controls are stronger suspects.
By now you have ruled out the common outside causes. The remaining likely fixes are more specific, and this is where buying the right part matters.
A good result: If replacing the confirmed failed latch or console restores normal starting, run a full cycle and check that the door starts consistently without extra pressure.
If not: If a confirmed latch or console repair does not change the symptom, the problem may be deeper in the wiring or main control and is no longer a clean guess-free DIY.
What to conclude: The strongest homeowner-supported repair paths here are the dishwasher door latch assembly and, less often, the user interface or touch control panel. A fully dead unit with good supply power needs careful electrical testing.
Repair Riot may earn a commission from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
The most common reasons are control lock being on, the door not fully latching, or a Start key that is not registering. If the panel lights up, check those before assuming a major electrical failure.
Yes. If the dishwasher does not see the door switch close, it will not begin the cycle. A worn latch, slight door misalignment, or something blocking the racks can all cause that.
That usually points to a latch engagement problem. The door may be just shy of closing the latch switch, or the dishwasher door latch assembly may be worn.
Not first. On this symptom, power supply issues, control lock, and latch problems are more common and easier to confirm. A control board is usually a later diagnosis, especially if the panel is completely dead and power checks are inconclusive.
Then the problem may be in the dishwasher power connection, wiring, door switch circuit, or internal controls. If you are not comfortable opening the access area with power safely disconnected, this is a good point to call for service.