Pump runs with an empty tub
You hear the drain pump even though there is little or no water left in the bottom.
Start here: Look for leak-triggered drain mode, a stuck dishwasher float, or debris holding the float area up.
Direct answer: If an Asko dishwasher keeps draining, the usual cause is not a bad board. Most of the time it is reacting to water where it should not be, a blocked drain path, or a float that is stuck telling the machine to stay in drain mode.
Most likely: Start with the easy physical checks: standing water in the tub, a packed dishwasher filter, debris around the sump, a clogged sink air gap if you have one, and a kinked or jammed dishwasher drain hose.
First figure out which version of the problem you have: the dishwasher drains normally but never stops, the drain pump runs as soon as power is on, or the machine hums and struggles with little water movement. That split matters. Reality check: a dishwasher that keeps draining is often trying to protect your floor. Common wrong move: clearing the sink drain and assuming the dishwasher side is clear too.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a dishwasher drain pump or control board. Continuous draining is often a protection response, not proof that the pump itself failed.
You hear the drain pump even though there is little or no water left in the bottom.
Start here: Look for leak-triggered drain mode, a stuck dishwasher float, or debris holding the float area up.
The dishwasher keeps trying to drain, but dirty water remains in the sump or tub floor.
Start here: Start with the dishwasher filter, sump opening, sink air gap, and dishwasher drain hose for a blockage.
The machine seems stuck repeating drain attempts instead of moving into the next part of the cycle.
Start here: Check for partial blockage, bad hose routing, or water collecting in the base pan from a small leak.
You hear a strained hum, rattling, or grinding when it tries to pump out.
Start here: Inspect the filter and sump for glass, labels, bone fragments, or other debris near the dishwasher drain pump inlet.
This is the most common reason a dishwasher keeps trying to drain but never finishes cleanly. Food sludge, broken glass, paper labels, and grease can slow the water enough that the machine keeps calling for drain.
Quick check: Remove the lower rack, pull the dishwasher filter, and look for sludge or hard debris in the sump opening.
A hose that is pinched behind the machine or packed with grease can let some water move but not enough to satisfy the drain cycle.
Quick check: Look under the sink and behind the dishwasher for a sharp kink, sag, or heavy buildup at the hose connection.
If water gets into the base pan, many dishwashers will run the drain pump continuously to prevent overflow. This often looks like a control problem when it is really a leak problem.
Quick check: Check for water on the floor, damp insulation, or signs of water in the base area under the dishwasher.
If the float or its well is jammed with gunk, the machine can misread water level and stay in drain longer than it should.
Quick check: Find the float area inside the tub, make sure it moves freely, and clear any grease or debris around it.
If the dishwasher is in protection mode because water reached the base, clearing the filter will not solve it. You need to know which problem you are actually chasing.
Next move: If you find water in the base area or signs of an active leak, you have likely found why it keeps draining. If the base area looks dry and the problem is mainly standing water or repeated drain attempts, move to the filter and drain path.
What to conclude: A dry machine points toward blockage or float issues. A wet base points toward leak protection keeping the drain pump on.
This is the highest-payoff check on a dishwasher that keeps draining or leaves water behind. It is also the least destructive.
Next move: If the next drain sounds stronger and the cycle moves on normally, the blockage was at the filter or sump. If water still lingers or the pump keeps running with little change, keep following the drain path outward.
What to conclude: A packed filter or debris at the sump can make the dishwasher act like it has a bigger failure than it really does.
A dishwasher can keep trying to drain because the water has nowhere to go after it leaves the tub. This is especially common after sink work, disposal replacement, or a recent clog.
Next move: If the dishwasher now drains in one steady push and stops normally, the restriction was in the hose or sink-side connection. If the hose and sink connection are clear but the dishwasher still strains or repeats drain mode, the issue is likely inside the machine or in the base pan.
By now you have ruled out the easy external restrictions. Next you want to know whether the machine is being told to drain, or whether the pump is trying and failing mechanically.
Next move: If freeing the float or clearing the area changes the behavior, the machine was likely getting a false water-level signal. If the pump hums or grinds and the drain path is already clear, the dishwasher drain pump becomes a more likely failure.
At this point you should have enough evidence to avoid guess-buying and choose the repair that actually fits what you found.
A good result: If the dishwasher fills, washes, drains once, and then goes quiet at the end, you are back in business.
If not: If it still runs the drain pump with a dry base, clear hose, clean filter, and free float, the diagnosis is no longer a simple homeowner call and a service visit is the smart next step.
What to conclude: You have either fixed a blockage, confirmed a leak-related safety response, or narrowed it to a pump or control-level issue without wasting money on random parts.
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That usually points to leak-triggered drain mode or a float problem, not just a clogged filter. If the tub is empty but the pump keeps running, check for water in the base area and make sure the dishwasher float is not stuck.
Yes. A packed dishwasher filter or debris in the sump can slow draining enough that the machine keeps calling for more drain time. It is one of the first things to check because it is common and easy to fix.
No. Replace the pump only after the filter, sump, air gap, and dishwasher drain hose are confirmed clear and the pump still hums, grinds, or barely moves water. Pumps get blamed too early on this symptom.
The dishwasher drain path often gets disturbed during sink work. A kinked hose, a blocked air gap, or a disposal knockout plug left in place can all make the dishwasher act like it cannot finish draining.
A thin film or small amount in the sump area can be normal. A visible pool across the tub floor, dirty standing water, or repeated drain attempts is not normal and needs troubleshooting.
Treat the leak as the main problem first. Water in the base area can force the dishwasher into continuous drain mode to prevent overflow. Fixing the leak is often what stops the endless draining.