Standing water over the filter area
There is enough water in the bottom to cover the sump area or float food bits around after the cycle ends.
Start here: Start with the filter and sump cleanup, then move to the drain hose and sink connection.
Direct answer: If your Miele dishwasher is not draining, the most common cause is a blockage in the filter, sump, drain hose, or sink-side drain connection rather than a bad internal part.
Most likely: Start with any standing water in the tub, then check the dishwasher filter, the sump opening under it, the drain hose for a kink or clog, and the sink air gap or disposal inlet if the dishwasher drains through one.
When a dishwasher leaves a shallow puddle after a cycle, that can be normal. When there’s enough water to cover the filter area or slosh when you pull the lower rack, it is not. Reality check: most no-drain calls end with debris cleanup, not a major part. Common wrong move: running cycle after cycle with dirty water still in the tub and hoping it clears itself.
Don’t start with: Don’t start by ordering a dishwasher drain pump. On this symptom, a packed filter or blocked drain path is more common and a lot cheaper to fix.
There is enough water in the bottom to cover the sump area or float food bits around after the cycle ends.
Start here: Start with the filter and sump cleanup, then move to the drain hose and sink connection.
You see a thin ring or shallow puddle near the filter, but dishes are otherwise clean and the tub is not filling up.
Start here: Confirm whether it is truly excessive first. A small amount can be normal, but food debris around the filter still needs attention.
The machine sounds like it is trying to pump out, but the water level barely changes.
Start here: Check for a jam in the sump or a blockage in the dishwasher drain hose before assuming the dishwasher drain pump is bad.
The dishwasher may seem empty at first, then dirty water appears later, especially after the sink drains.
Start here: Go straight to the sink-side drain path, air gap, disposal inlet, or shared drain blockage.
This is the most common cause when water stays in the tub and the machine otherwise powers up and runs.
Quick check: Remove the lower rack and filter pieces, then look for grease, labels, glass chips, seeds, or sludge around the sump opening.
A hose can pinch behind the unit or collect grease and debris, especially if draining has been getting slower over time.
Quick check: Inspect the visible hose path under the sink for a hard bend, sag full of water, or a clog near the sink connection.
If the dishwasher shares the sink drain, a blockage outside the dishwasher can stop draining or let dirty water run back in.
Quick check: If there is an air gap on the sink, pop the cap and check for buildup. If connected to a disposal, make sure the dishwasher inlet is clear.
This moves up the list when the filter and hose path are clear but the unit only hums, clicks, or never pushes water out.
Quick check: After clearing the easy blockages, listen during drain. A loud hum with no flow or total silence from the pump points here.
You need a clear view of the filter area before you can tell whether the dishwasher is blocked, backing up from the sink, or just holding a normal small puddle.
Next move: If you find only a very shallow clean puddle near the filter and the dishwasher otherwise finishes normally, you may not have a true no-drain failure. If there is clearly too much water, or dirty water keeps returning, keep going with the drain-path checks.
What to conclude: Clean standing water usually points to a dishwasher-side drain restriction. Dirty water that reappears later often points to a sink-side blockage or backflow issue.
This is the highest-payoff check on a dishwasher that will not drain. Food paste, labels, bone fragments, and glass chips collect here and choke off flow.
Next move: If the dishwasher drains normally on the next cancel-drain or short rinse cycle, the blockage was at the filter or sump. If water still sits in the tub, move to the hose and sink-side checks.
What to conclude: A dirty filter or jammed sump is the most likely cause when draining improves immediately after cleanup.
Once the filter area is clear, the next most common restriction is in the dishwasher drain hose or where it ties into the sink plumbing.
Next move: If a clog clears and the dishwasher now pumps out strongly, the problem was in the hose or sink-side connection. If the hose path is open and the sink connection is clear, the remaining likely causes are a deeper internal blockage or a drain pump problem.
Sound tells you a lot here. A humming pump with no water movement usually means a jam or blockage. No pump sound at all after the drain command can mean the pump is not running.
Next move: If you now hear strong discharge and the tub empties, recheck for a loose filter, partial hose clog, or sink-side backflow if the problem returns. If the pump only hums or stays silent with the drain path already cleared, plan on pump-level diagnosis or service.
By this point you should know whether you fixed a blockage, need a hose-related repair, or have strong evidence of a failed pump.
A good result: If the tub drains fully and stays empty between cycles, the repair path was correct.
If not: If the dishwasher still will not drain after the filter, hose, and sink-side checks, the safest next move is pump-level service rather than guess-buying more parts.
What to conclude: You have narrowed the problem to either a resolved blockage, a confirmed hose or filter hardware issue, or a likely drain pump failure.
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Most of the time it is a clogged dishwasher filter, debris in the sump, a restricted dishwasher drain hose, or a sink-side blockage at the air gap or disposal connection. A failed dishwasher drain pump is possible, but it is usually not the first cause.
Sometimes, yes. A very shallow clean puddle near the filter area can be normal on some dishwashers. If water is covering the filter area, smells bad, or sloshes around after the cycle, that is not normal.
Yes. If the dishwasher drains through the disposal, a clogged disposal inlet or sink-side blockage can stop draining or let dirty water run back into the dishwasher. Check that connection before replacing dishwasher parts.
The pump moves higher on the list after you have cleaned the filter and sump and confirmed the dishwasher drain hose and sink connection are clear. A pump that only hums with no water flow, or stays silent during the drain command, is a stronger pump-failure clue.
No. Chemical drain cleaners can damage dishwasher parts, seals, and hoses, and they make the cleanup more hazardous. Stick with manual cleaning of the filter, sump, hose, and sink-side connection.