Dishwasher draining problem

Miele Dishwasher Intake Drain Light Flashing

Direct answer: A flashing intake drain light usually means the dishwasher is not moving water in or out the way it expects. Most of the time the real cause is standing water, a packed dishwasher filter, a kinked or clogged dishwasher drain hose, or a blockage where the dishwasher ties into the sink drain.

Most likely: Start with the tub bottom, filter area, drain hose routing, and any sink air gap or disposer inlet before assuming an internal failure.

First separate two lookalikes: a dishwasher that will not drain versus one that keeps trying to drain because it senses water where it should not. Reality check: this light often points to a plain old blockage, not an expensive electronic failure. Common wrong move: running cycle after cycle with dirty water still in the tub and hoping it clears itself.

Don’t start with: Do not start by buying a dishwasher pump or control part. On this symptom, the simple blockage checks solve a lot of calls.

If you see water sitting in the bottomTreat it like a drain-path problem first.
If the drain pump runs almost constantly with little or no water in the tubStop and check for a leak tray or float issue before replacing drain parts.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17

What the flashing intake drain light usually looks like

Standing water in the tub

There is a pool of water under the lower rack or around the filter cover after the cycle ends.

Start here: Check the dishwasher filter, sump opening, and drain path to the sink first.

Drain pump runs but little water leaves

You hear the pump, but the water level barely changes or drains very slowly.

Start here: Look for a clogged dishwasher drain hose, blocked air gap, or plugged disposer inlet.

Light flashes with no obvious standing water

The tub looks mostly empty, but the machine stops and shows the warning anyway.

Start here: Check for a leak tray or stuck dishwasher float condition before chasing a drain blockage.

Dishwasher keeps trying to drain

The pump comes on repeatedly or right away, even when there is not much water inside.

Start here: Suspect water in the base pan or a float-related issue rather than a simple filter clog.

Most likely causes

1. Clogged dishwasher filter or sump debris

Food sludge, glass chips, labels, and grease collect at the tub bottom and slow the first part of the drain path.

Quick check: Remove the lower rack and inspect the filter area for sludge, standing water, or debris packed around the sump opening.

2. Blocked or kinked dishwasher drain hose

A hose kink behind the machine or buildup inside the hose will let the pump run without moving much water.

Quick check: Look under the sink and behind the dishwasher for a flattened loop, sharp bend, or hose packed with greasy residue.

3. Sink-side restriction at the air gap or disposer inlet

The dishwasher may be fine, but it cannot push water through a plugged air gap or a disposer connection that never got opened or has clogged shut.

Quick check: If you have an air gap, pop the cap and look for gunk. If the hose goes to a disposer, check that inlet for blockage.

4. Water in the base pan or a dishwasher float issue

When the machine senses water where it should not, it may keep draining or flash the warning even if the tub itself is not full.

Quick check: Listen for a drain pump that starts immediately and keeps running, then look for signs of leaking under the unit or moisture in the base area.

Step-by-step fix

Step 1: Confirm which problem you actually have

This warning gets blamed on draining every time, but a dishwasher that keeps draining with an empty tub points you in a different direction.

  1. Cancel the cycle and open the door.
  2. Look at the tub bottom and note whether there is obvious standing water.
  3. Listen for the drain pump: is it running steadily, humming weakly, or not running at all?
  4. Check the sink and disposer area for backup, gurgling, or water spitting from an air gap if you have one.

Next move: You now know whether to follow a true drain blockage path or a leak-tray/float path. If you cannot tell because the machine is full of dirty water, bail out the excess with a cup so you can inspect the filter area safely.

What to conclude: Standing water usually means a blockage in the filter or drain path. A pump that runs with little water in the tub leans more toward water in the base pan or a sensing issue.

Stop if:
  • Water is spilling onto the floor.
  • You smell burning, see smoke, or hear harsh grinding from the pump area.
  • You need to pull the dishwasher out but the water supply or drain connection looks unsafe or inaccessible.

Step 2: Clean the dishwasher filter and sump opening

This is the most common fix and the least destructive place to start.

  1. Turn off power to the dishwasher before putting hands near the sump area.
  2. Remove the lower rack.
  3. Take out the dishwasher filter assembly and rinse it with warm water.
  4. Use mild soap and a soft brush or cloth to clear grease and food film from the filter screen and housing.
  5. Check the sump opening for glass, bone fragments, paper labels, or other debris and remove it carefully.
  6. Reinstall the dishwasher filter so it seats fully and locks in place.

Next move: Run a short rinse or drain cycle. If the water leaves quickly and the light stays off, the blockage was at the tub end. Move to the drain hose and sink-side checks. A clean filter with poor draining usually means the restriction is farther downstream.

What to conclude: A packed filter or blocked sump starves the drain path right at the source. If cleaning changes the sound of the pump or improves flow, you were on the right track.

Step 3: Check the dishwasher drain hose and sink connection

Once the filter is clear, the next most likely trouble spot is the hose run to the sink drain or disposer.

  1. Look under the sink for the dishwasher drain hose and follow its full visible path.
  2. Straighten any sharp kink or crushed section.
  3. If there is an air gap on the sink deck, remove the cap and clean out debris inside the air gap body and outlet hose.
  4. If the dishwasher drains into a disposer, disconnect power to the disposer and inspect the dishwasher inlet for blockage.
  5. Loosen the hose connection only if you can catch residual water safely, then check for grease sludge or food buildup inside the hose end.
  6. Reconnect everything securely and make sure the hose has a proper high loop if applicable.

Next move: If the dishwasher now drains normally, the restriction was in the hose run or sink-side connection. If the hose path is clear and the machine still will not move water, the problem is likely deeper in the dishwasher drain system or the machine is reacting to water in the base pan.

Step 4: Check for a leak tray or float-triggered drain condition

If the tub is mostly empty but the warning returns and the pump keeps trying to run, the dishwasher may be reacting to water underneath rather than a clog in front of you.

  1. Shut off power to the dishwasher.
  2. Look around the toe-kick area and cabinet floor for signs of recent leaking.
  3. If you can safely remove the lower access panel, inspect for moisture in the base area.
  4. Check whether the dishwasher float moves freely if your model uses an accessible tub float.
  5. Look for obvious causes like a loose filter, over-sudsing from wrong detergent, or a visible drip from a hose connection.

Next move: If you find and correct a simple leak source or a stuck float and the warning clears after drying out, you have the right failure path. If the base area is dry and the float is not stuck, the remaining likely causes are an internal drain restriction or a failing drain pump.

Step 5: Decide between hose replacement, filter replacement, or a pro pump diagnosis

By this point you have ruled out the easy, common causes and can make a cleaner call on the next repair.

  1. Replace the dishwasher drain hose if it is kinked permanently, split, or packed with buildup you cannot clear fully.
  2. Replace the dishwasher filter assembly if it is broken, warped, or will not seat and lock correctly after cleaning.
  3. If the drain path is clear but the pump only hums, grinds, or moves almost no water, stop short of guess-buying and schedule service for drain pump diagnosis.
  4. After any correction, run a short cycle and watch the first drain-out so you can confirm strong flow at the sink connection and no return of the warning light.

A good result: A successful test cycle with a clean drain-out and no flashing light confirms the repair path.

If not: If the warning returns after the filter, hose, and sink-side path all check out, the dishwasher likely needs internal diagnosis beyond routine homeowner cleaning.

What to conclude: Visible hose or filter damage supports replacement. A clear path with weak or noisy pumping points more toward an internal pump problem, which is real but should be confirmed before ordering parts.

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FAQ

Does a flashing intake drain light always mean the dishwasher is not draining?

No. It often points to a drain problem, but it can also show up when the dishwasher senses water in the base pan or a float-related issue. Standing water in the tub pushes you toward a blockage. A pump that keeps running with little water in the tub pushes you toward a leak-tray or float check.

Why does my dishwasher drain pump run but the water stays in the bottom?

That usually means the pump is trying to push through a restriction. The most common spots are the dishwasher filter, sump opening, drain hose, sink air gap, or the disposer inlet where the dishwasher hose connects.

Can I pour vinegar or drain cleaner into the dishwasher to clear it?

Skip drain cleaner. It can damage parts and create a mess when you open the machine or hose. A safe first move is to clean the dishwasher filter with warm water and mild soap, then clear the hose and sink-side connection mechanically.

What if the tub is empty but the intake drain light still flashes?

That is when you stop thinking only about clogs. Check for signs of water underneath the dishwasher, a stuck float, or over-sudsing from the wrong detergent. Those can make the machine act like it needs to drain even when the tub looks empty.

Should I replace the drain pump if cleaning the filter did not fix it?

Not yet. A lot of machines still have a blocked hose or sink-side restriction after the filter is cleaned. Replace a visible failed hose or damaged filter first. If the whole drain path is clear and the pump only hums, grinds, or barely moves water, then a pro pump diagnosis makes sense.