Standing water in the tub
There is a pool of water under the lower rack or around the filter cover after the cycle ends.
Start here: Check the dishwasher filter, sump opening, and drain path to the sink first.
Direct answer: A flashing intake drain light usually means the dishwasher is not moving water in or out the way it expects. Most of the time the real cause is standing water, a packed dishwasher filter, a kinked or clogged dishwasher drain hose, or a blockage where the dishwasher ties into the sink drain.
Most likely: Start with the tub bottom, filter area, drain hose routing, and any sink air gap or disposer inlet before assuming an internal failure.
First separate two lookalikes: a dishwasher that will not drain versus one that keeps trying to drain because it senses water where it should not. Reality check: this light often points to a plain old blockage, not an expensive electronic failure. Common wrong move: running cycle after cycle with dirty water still in the tub and hoping it clears itself.
Don’t start with: Do not start by buying a dishwasher pump or control part. On this symptom, the simple blockage checks solve a lot of calls.
There is a pool of water under the lower rack or around the filter cover after the cycle ends.
Start here: Check the dishwasher filter, sump opening, and drain path to the sink first.
You hear the pump, but the water level barely changes or drains very slowly.
Start here: Look for a clogged dishwasher drain hose, blocked air gap, or plugged disposer inlet.
The tub looks mostly empty, but the machine stops and shows the warning anyway.
Start here: Check for a leak tray or stuck dishwasher float condition before chasing a drain blockage.
The pump comes on repeatedly or right away, even when there is not much water inside.
Start here: Suspect water in the base pan or a float-related issue rather than a simple filter clog.
Food sludge, glass chips, labels, and grease collect at the tub bottom and slow the first part of the drain path.
Quick check: Remove the lower rack and inspect the filter area for sludge, standing water, or debris packed around the sump opening.
A hose kink behind the machine or buildup inside the hose will let the pump run without moving much water.
Quick check: Look under the sink and behind the dishwasher for a flattened loop, sharp bend, or hose packed with greasy residue.
The dishwasher may be fine, but it cannot push water through a plugged air gap or a disposer connection that never got opened or has clogged shut.
Quick check: If you have an air gap, pop the cap and look for gunk. If the hose goes to a disposer, check that inlet for blockage.
When the machine senses water where it should not, it may keep draining or flash the warning even if the tub itself is not full.
Quick check: Listen for a drain pump that starts immediately and keeps running, then look for signs of leaking under the unit or moisture in the base area.
This warning gets blamed on draining every time, but a dishwasher that keeps draining with an empty tub points you in a different direction.
Next move: You now know whether to follow a true drain blockage path or a leak-tray/float path. If you cannot tell because the machine is full of dirty water, bail out the excess with a cup so you can inspect the filter area safely.
What to conclude: Standing water usually means a blockage in the filter or drain path. A pump that runs with little water in the tub leans more toward water in the base pan or a sensing issue.
This is the most common fix and the least destructive place to start.
Next move: Run a short rinse or drain cycle. If the water leaves quickly and the light stays off, the blockage was at the tub end. Move to the drain hose and sink-side checks. A clean filter with poor draining usually means the restriction is farther downstream.
What to conclude: A packed filter or blocked sump starves the drain path right at the source. If cleaning changes the sound of the pump or improves flow, you were on the right track.
Once the filter is clear, the next most likely trouble spot is the hose run to the sink drain or disposer.
Next move: If the dishwasher now drains normally, the restriction was in the hose run or sink-side connection. If the hose path is clear and the machine still will not move water, the problem is likely deeper in the dishwasher drain system or the machine is reacting to water in the base pan.
If the tub is mostly empty but the warning returns and the pump keeps trying to run, the dishwasher may be reacting to water underneath rather than a clog in front of you.
Next move: If you find and correct a simple leak source or a stuck float and the warning clears after drying out, you have the right failure path. If the base area is dry and the float is not stuck, the remaining likely causes are an internal drain restriction or a failing drain pump.
By this point you have ruled out the easy, common causes and can make a cleaner call on the next repair.
A good result: A successful test cycle with a clean drain-out and no flashing light confirms the repair path.
If not: If the warning returns after the filter, hose, and sink-side path all check out, the dishwasher likely needs internal diagnosis beyond routine homeowner cleaning.
What to conclude: Visible hose or filter damage supports replacement. A clear path with weak or noisy pumping points more toward an internal pump problem, which is real but should be confirmed before ordering parts.
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No. It often points to a drain problem, but it can also show up when the dishwasher senses water in the base pan or a float-related issue. Standing water in the tub pushes you toward a blockage. A pump that keeps running with little water in the tub pushes you toward a leak-tray or float check.
That usually means the pump is trying to push through a restriction. The most common spots are the dishwasher filter, sump opening, drain hose, sink air gap, or the disposer inlet where the dishwasher hose connects.
Skip drain cleaner. It can damage parts and create a mess when you open the machine or hose. A safe first move is to clean the dishwasher filter with warm water and mild soap, then clear the hose and sink-side connection mechanically.
That is when you stop thinking only about clogs. Check for signs of water underneath the dishwasher, a stuck float, or over-sudsing from the wrong detergent. Those can make the machine act like it needs to drain even when the tub looks empty.
Not yet. A lot of machines still have a blocked hose or sink-side restriction after the filter is cleaned. Replace a visible failed hose or damaged filter first. If the whole drain path is clear and the pump only hums, grinds, or barely moves water, then a pro pump diagnosis makes sense.