Code appears almost immediately
The dishwasher starts, you may hear a brief click or faint hum, then F13 shows before much water enters.
Start here: Check the water supply valve, supply line, and inlet screen before anything else.
Dishwasher error code troubleshooting
Miele Dishwasher F13 Fault
Direct answer: A Miele dishwasher F13 fault usually means the dishwasher is not getting enough water during the fill period. Most of the time the cause is a partly closed supply valve, a kinked dishwasher water supply line, debris at the inlet screen, or a sticking dishwasher water inlet valve.
Most likely: Start with the house shutoff feeding the dishwasher, then check for a pinched supply line and debris where the water line connects to the dishwasher. If water supply is good and the fault returns right away, the dishwasher water inlet valve or dishwasher float path becomes more likely.
If the machine hums, starts to fill weakly, or throws the code early in the cycle, stay on the water-in side of the diagnosis. Reality check: this code is often a plain water supply issue, not a major internal failure. Common wrong move: replacing parts before checking the shutoff valve under the sink.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering an electronic control or taking the whole dishwasher apart. F13 is more often a fill problem you can confirm from the outside first.
If you hear little or no water entering,check the supply valve and inlet screen first.
If it fills a bit, then stops with F13,look for a restricted inlet valve or a float problem.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17
What F13 usually looks like on a dishwasher
A little water enters, then the cycle stops
You hear some filling, but it sounds weak or short, and the machine faults out early.
Start here: Look for a restricted inlet screen, low supply flow, or a dishwasher water inlet valve that is opening poorly.
The dishwasher worked recently, then suddenly shows F13
No major noise, no leak, just a new fill-related fault after normal operation.
Start here: Suspect debris in the inlet path, a bumped shutoff valve, or a kinked line from something stored under the sink.
The code comes and goes
One cycle may run, then the next one faults, especially when other fixtures are being used.
Start here: Check for inconsistent water supply, a sticky dishwasher float, or a water inlet valve that is starting to fail when warm.
Most likely causes
1. Partly closed or restricted dishwasher water supply
This is the most common reason for a fill-time fault. A shutoff valve under the sink may be bumped, clogged internally, or not opening fully.
Quick check: Run the hot water at the sink, then confirm the dishwasher shutoff is fully open and the supply line is not pinched or sharply bent.
2. Debris at the dishwasher water inlet screen
Sediment can collect where the supply line connects to the dishwasher and choke the fill rate enough to trigger F13.
Quick check: Turn off water and power, disconnect the supply line at the dishwasher inlet, and inspect the small screen for grit or scale.
3. Weak or sticking dishwasher water inlet valve
If supply pressure is good and the screen is clear, the valve may hum but not open fully, or it may work only intermittently.
Quick check: Listen during the first fill. A steady hum with little incoming water points toward a restricted or failing dishwasher water inlet valve.
4. Dishwasher float stuck in the full position
A stuck float can tell the dishwasher it already has enough water, which can stop filling and lead to a fill fault.
Quick check: Find the float inside the tub if your model uses one and make sure it moves freely and is not jammed by debris.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm this is really a fill problem
F13 points you toward water intake, but you want to separate no-fill from drain or leak behavior before opening anything.
- Start a normal cycle and listen for the first 60 to 90 seconds.
- Note whether you hear water entering, a drain pump running continuously, or only a faint hum.
- Open the door after the first fill attempt and check whether there is little to no water in the bottom of the tub.
- If the dishwasher is obviously draining nonstop instead of trying to fill, stop here and treat it as a different symptom.
Next move: If you confirm there is little or no incoming water, keep going with the supply-side checks. If the dishwasher is full of water, leaking, or only draining, F13 may be secondary and this page is not the best fit.
What to conclude: You are making sure the problem is truly on the water-in side, which is where F13 usually lives.
Stop if:
- The dishwasher is leaking onto the floor.
- You smell burning, see smoke, or hear sharp electrical buzzing.
- The machine is only draining continuously and never attempts to fill.
Step 2: Check the easy outside causes under the sink
A closed valve or kinked line is common, safe to inspect, and costs nothing to correct.
- Turn off the dishwasher at the breaker or unplug it if accessible.
- Look under the sink for the dishwasher water shutoff valve and make sure it is fully open.
- Inspect the dishwasher water supply line for kinks, flattening, or a hard bend where items under the sink may have crushed it.
- Run the hot water at the sink and make sure house water flow seems normal, not unusually weak.
Next move: If you find a closed valve or kinked line and correct it, restore power and test a cycle. If the valve is open, the line looks good, and house flow is normal, move to the inlet connection and screen.
What to conclude: Good house flow with an open valve rules out the simplest supply problems and points closer to the dishwasher inlet itself.
Step 3: Inspect the dishwasher inlet screen for sediment
A partially blocked inlet screen can cut flow enough to trigger F13 even when the house supply seems fine.
- Shut off power and close the dishwasher water supply valve.
- Pull the dishwasher out only as far as needed to reach the water line connection if the inlet is not accessible from the front kick area.
- Place a towel or shallow pan under the connection and disconnect the dishwasher water supply line at the inlet.
- Inspect the small screen at the dishwasher inlet for grit, scale, or debris.
- Rinse loose debris away with water or gently wipe it clean without poking hard enough to damage the screen.
- Reconnect the line, open the valve slowly, check for leaks, then restore power and test.
Next move: If the dishwasher fills normally and the code stays gone, the restriction was at the inlet screen. If the screen is clear or the code returns right away, the inlet valve or float path is more likely.
Step 4: Check whether the dishwasher float is stuck
A float that is jammed up can stop filling even though the water supply side is fine.
- Open the dishwasher and remove the lower rack.
- Locate the float inside the tub if your model has a visible float dome or float cover.
- Lift it gently and let it drop back down. It should move freely, not bind or stay raised.
- Clear away food debris, broken glass, or buildup around the float area using a damp cloth.
- Run a short cycle and listen again for a normal fill.
Next move: If the float was stuck and the dishwasher now fills normally, you likely found the cause. If the float moves freely and the dishwasher still gets F13 with good supply, the dishwasher water inlet valve is the strongest remaining suspect.
Step 5: Act on the confirmed repair path
Once supply, line condition, inlet screen, and float movement check out, the remaining likely failure is the fill valve not opening properly.
- If the dishwasher has good house water supply, an open shutoff, a clear inlet screen, and a free float, plan on replacing the dishwasher water inlet valve.
- If the float is physically damaged or will not move correctly after cleaning, replace the dishwasher float components that are damaged.
- After repair, run a full cycle and watch the first fill and the first drain to make sure the code does not return.
- If the dishwasher still shows F13 after those checks and repairs, stop DIY and have the machine professionally diagnosed for wiring or control issues.
A good result: A normal first fill, no returning code, and a completed cycle confirm the repair.
If not: If the code returns with verified water supply and a corrected fill path, the problem is beyond the common homeowner fixes on this page.
What to conclude: By this point you have ruled out the usual external restrictions and narrowed the fault to the dishwasher's fill hardware or a deeper electrical issue.
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FAQ
What does F13 mean on a Miele dishwasher?
In plain terms, F13 usually means the dishwasher did not get enough water during the allowed fill time. The usual causes are weak supply, a restricted inlet screen, a bad dishwasher water inlet valve, or a float issue.
Can low house water pressure cause an F13 fault?
Yes. If the sink flow is weak, the dishwasher may not fill fast enough and can throw F13. Check house flow and the dishwasher shutoff valve before assuming a failed part.
Will resetting the dishwasher clear F13 for good?
A reset may clear the code once, but it will usually come back if the fill problem is still there. Use the reset only after checking the water supply and inlet path.
Should I replace the dishwasher water inlet valve right away?
Not right away. First confirm the shutoff valve is open, the supply line is not kinked, and the inlet screen is not clogged. Replace the dishwasher water inlet valve only after those checks support it.
Can a clogged filter inside the tub cause F13?
Usually no. A dirty tub filter is more likely to affect draining than filling. F13 is more often tied to the incoming water side, though debris around the dishwasher float can still matter.
Why does F13 come and go instead of staying constant?
Intermittent F13 often points to a sticking dishwasher water inlet valve, inconsistent water supply, or a float that occasionally hangs up. That on-and-off pattern is common when a part is starting to fail rather than fully dead.