Standing water in the tub
There is a pool of dirty water below the filter area when the cycle ends.
Start here: Start with the filter, sump opening, and anything blocking the drain path inside the tub.
Direct answer: A Miele dishwasher F11 fault usually means the machine is not draining fast enough or not draining at all. Most of the time the cause is standing water, a clogged dishwasher filter, debris in the sump, a kinked dishwasher drain hose, or a blockage at the sink air gap or sink drain connection.
Most likely: Start with the easy drain path checks: remove standing water, clean the dishwasher filter, look for glass or food packed around the sump, then inspect the dishwasher drain hose and any air gap at the sink.
If the tub has water sitting in the bottom and the cycle stops with F11, treat it like a drain restriction until proven otherwise. Reality check: a lot of F11 calls end with a dirty filter or a blocked hose, not an electronic failure. Common wrong move: running cycle after cycle with dirty water still in the base just packs debris tighter into the drain path.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a dishwasher drain pump. Pumps do fail, but a plain blockage is more common.
There is a pool of dirty water below the filter area when the cycle ends.
Start here: Start with the filter, sump opening, and anything blocking the drain path inside the tub.
You hear a motor sound when it should drain, but little or no water leaves.
Start here: Check for a jammed pump impeller, clogged hose, or blocked air gap or sink connection.
The machine reaches the drain part of the cycle and stays quiet, then shows F11.
Start here: After clearing the filter and hose path, suspect a stuck or failed dishwasher drain pump.
The dishwasher was fine before plumbing work, then suddenly will not drain.
Start here: Look first at the sink drain connection, air gap, or a hose kink behind the dishwasher.
This is the most common cause when F11 appears with standing water. Food sludge, labels, glass chips, and grease collect where the water first leaves the tub.
Quick check: Remove the lower rack and filter, then look for debris packed in the filter well or around the sump opening.
A hose can clog with grease and soft debris or get pinched when the dishwasher is pushed back into place.
Quick check: Follow the dishwasher drain hose from the machine to the sink connection and look for sharp bends, sags full of sludge, or a blocked end.
If the sink side is plugged, the dishwasher may pump but the water has nowhere to go. This often shows up right after sink plumbing work.
Quick check: If there is an air gap on the sink, remove the cap and check for gunk. Also inspect the dishwasher hose connection at the sink drain or disposal inlet.
Once the filter and hose path are clear, a pump that only hums, trips, or stays silent during drain becomes the main suspect.
Quick check: Listen during the drain portion. A loud hum with no flow suggests a jam. Silence after the machine should be draining points more toward pump failure or a wiring/control issue.
A thin film of water under the filter is normal on many dishwashers. F11 with a real puddle is different.
Next move: If the sink drain was the only problem and the dishwasher drains normally after that is corrected, the F11 fault may not return. If the sink is fine or the dishwasher still leaves water behind, move to the internal drain path checks.
What to conclude: You are separating a house drain problem from a dishwasher drain problem before taking the machine apart.
This is the highest-payoff check on an F11 fault. Small debris can block flow even when the filter does not look terrible from above.
Next move: If the dishwasher drains normally on the next drain or rinse cycle, the blockage was in the filter or sump. If the tub still will not drain, the restriction is likely farther down the drain path or at the pump.
What to conclude: A cleaned filter and clear sump rule out the most common easy fix and make the next checks more meaningful.
A clear filter does not help if the hose is kinked, packed with sludge, or blocked at the sink end.
Next move: If you clear a clog or kink and the dishwasher now drains strongly, the F11 fault was caused by a restricted hose path. If the hose path is open and the machine still will not drain, the pump area is the next likely spot.
Once the filter and hose path are clear, the sound the machine makes during drain tells you a lot.
Next move: If removing debris restores a strong drain, the pump was jammed rather than failed. If the pump still only hums, trips, or stays dead with a clear drain path, the dishwasher drain pump is the most likely failed part.
By this point you have either found the blockage or narrowed it to the main failed component.
A good result: A good repair will empty the tub quickly, clear the fault, and let the cycle finish without water left in the bottom.
If not: If F11 returns after the drain path and pump are addressed, the remaining issue is usually electrical diagnosis rather than another guess-and-buy part.
What to conclude: You are down to the actual failed part or a service-level electrical problem, not a general clog hunt anymore.
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It usually means the dishwasher is not draining properly within the expected time. The most common causes are a clogged dishwasher filter, debris in the sump, a blocked dishwasher drain hose, a blocked air gap, or a bad dishwasher drain pump.
Yes. A dirty or damaged dishwasher filter is one of the most common reasons for this fault. Even a small amount of glass, paper, or grease in the sump area can slow draining enough to trigger the code.
A humming sound usually means the dishwasher drain pump is trying to run but cannot move water. That is often caused by a jammed impeller or a blockage farther down the drain path.
Usually no. Start with the filter, sump, dishwasher drain hose, and sink-side connection. Pump replacement makes sense only after the drain path is clearly open and the pump still hums, jams, or stays silent during drain.
Yes. If the sink drain connection or air gap is blocked, the dishwasher may pump against that restriction and still fail to empty. This is especially common after sink plumbing or disposal work.
It is better to stop and clear the drain problem first. Repeated cycles with standing dirty water can worsen the blockage, leave odor behind, and sometimes lead to leaks when water backs up where it should not.