Direct answer: A Maytag dishwasher that is not draining usually has a clogged filter or sump, a kinked or blocked dishwasher drain hose, or a blockage where the hose ties into the sink drain or air gap. A bad drain pump is possible, but it is not the first thing I would bet on.
Most likely: Start with the water level in the tub, then check the dishwasher filter, the sump opening under it, and the full drain path to the sink connection.
If there is a shallow puddle under the filter, that can be normal on some machines. If there is enough water to cover the filter, slosh against the door, or smell sour after a cycle, you have a real drain problem. Reality check: the ugly, simple clog is more common than the expensive part failure. Common wrong move: running cycle after cycle with dirty water still in the tub just packs debris tighter into the drain path.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a drain pump just because there is water in the bottom. Most no-drain calls end up being a blockage, not a failed motor.
A small amount of water sits below the screen or in the sump area, but dishes are mostly clean and the tub floor is not flooded.
Start here: This may be normal. Confirm the water is not above the filter area before tearing into the machine.
Water covers the bottom of the tub or reaches the door lip area after the cycle ends.
Start here: Start with the filter and sump check, then move straight to the drain hose and sink connection.
You hear the machine try to drain, but the water level barely changes.
Start here: That usually points to debris in the sump, a jammed dishwasher drain pump impeller, or a blocked hose.
The dishwasher may empty partly, then dirty water comes back, or the sink gurgles when the dishwasher drains.
Start here: Check the air gap if you have one, then the dishwasher drain hose loop and the sink drain connection.
This is the most common cause when the machine finishes the cycle but leaves dirty water behind. Food scraps, labels, glass chips, and grease collect right where the drain path starts.
Quick check: Remove the lower rack and filter, then look for sludge, paper, bone fragments, or broken glass around the sump opening.
A partial clog or sharp kink lets the dishwasher wash normally but slows or stops draining at the end. It is especially common after the unit was pushed back in or plumbing was recently worked on.
Quick check: Follow the dishwasher drain hose from the machine to the sink drain or disposer and look for a flattened section, sag, or greasy blockage.
If the dishwasher drains through an air gap or into a branch tailpiece, that small fitting clogs easily with grease and food paste. The dishwasher can be fine while the sink-side path is blocked.
Quick check: If there is an air gap on the sink deck, pop the cap and look for buildup. If the hose connects to the sink drain, disconnect and inspect that inlet for blockage.
This moves up the list when the filter and hose path are clear but the machine only hums, trips out, or leaves full-tub water every time.
Quick check: After clearing the sump and hose path, listen during drain. A harsh hum, grinding, or dead silence can point to a dishwasher drain pump problem.
Some dishwashers keep a little water below the filter area, and that is not the same as a failed drain. You want to separate normal residual water from standing tub water before pulling parts apart.
Next move: If you confirm there is only a small amount of water in the recessed sump area, you may not have a repair issue at all. If there is obvious standing water in the tub, move to the filter and sump inspection.
What to conclude: This tells you whether you are chasing a normal condition or a blocked drain path.
This is the highest-payoff first check. On a lot of Maytag no-drain complaints, the blockage is right under the lower spray arm area where debris collects before it ever reaches the hose.
Next move: If the next drain cycle clears the tub normally, the problem was a filter or sump blockage. If the tub still holds water, the blockage is likely farther down the drain path or the pump is not moving water.
What to conclude: A clean filter with no improvement pushes the diagnosis away from simple maintenance and toward the hose, sink connection, or pump.
A dishwasher can look like it has an internal failure when the real blockage is at the sink end. This is especially common if the sink drains slowly, the disposer was recently replaced, or the dishwasher backs up into the sink.
Next move: If clearing the sink-side connection or straightening the hose restores normal draining, you found the restriction. If the hose path and sink connection are clear, the remaining likely causes are a blockage closer to the dishwasher or a drain pump issue.
Now you are narrowing down whether the machine is blocked internally or simply not moving water. This step helps separate a clogged hose path from a weak or jammed dishwasher drain pump.
Next move: If water shoots out strongly into the bucket, the dishwasher can drain and the blockage is at the sink connection, air gap, or downstream plumbing. If little or no water comes out and you already cleared the filter area, the dishwasher drain hose may be blocked closer to the unit or the dishwasher drain pump is jammed or failing.
By this point you have already ruled out the easy stuff. The last useful homeowner split is whether the hose is blocked near the machine or the pump itself is not moving water.
A good result: If a cleared or replaced dishwasher drain hose restores full draining, button it up and run a full cycle to confirm.
If not: If the hose is clear and the dishwasher still will not pump out, the drain pump is the supported next repair. If access is tight or diagnosis is still fuzzy, this is a good place to call for service.
What to conclude: A clear hose with no drain action is the strongest sign on this page that the dishwasher drain pump has failed or is jammed beyond a simple cleanup.
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A little water down in the filter well can be normal. Water spread across the tub bottom or covering the filter usually means a clogged dishwasher filter, blocked dishwasher drain hose, clogged air gap, or a drain pump that is not moving water.
Suspect the dishwasher drain pump after you have already cleaned the filter and sump and confirmed the hose and sink connection are clear. The usual clues are a loud hum, grinding, or no pump-out at all even though the drain path is open.
Yes. If the dishwasher drain hose connects to the disposer, that inlet can clog. If the disposer was recently installed, the knockout plug may also have been left in place, which completely blocks dishwasher draining.
No drain cleaner. It can damage parts and create a nasty spill when you open hoses later. For the filter, use warm water and mild soap. For the drain path, physical cleaning is safer and usually works better.
Usually yes if the machine is otherwise in good shape and you have already ruled out the common clogs. Just do not jump to the pump first. On this symptom, the filter, sump, hose, and sink-side connection are more common failures.