Standing water after the cycle ends
There is a visible pool of water in the tub floor, often with food bits floating in it.
Start here: Start at the filter and sump area, then move to the drain hose and sink-side connection.
Direct answer: If your LG dishwasher is not draining, the usual cause is a blockage in the filter area, sump, drain hose, air gap, or sink drain connection. A failed dishwasher drain pump is possible, but it is not the first thing I would blame.
Most likely: Start with standing water in the tub, then check the dishwasher filter, the sump opening under it, the drain hose for kinks, and the sink-side drain connection or air gap for grease and debris.
When a dishwasher finishes and leaves dirty water in the bottom, you want to separate a simple drain path blockage from a real pump failure fast. Reality check: a little clean water in the very bottom can be normal, but a puddle covering the sump or floating debris is not. Common wrong move: running cycle after cycle with standing water just packs food sludge deeper into the drain path.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a dishwasher drain pump. Most no-drain calls turn out to be a clog or a bad hose routing issue.
There is a visible pool of water in the tub floor, often with food bits floating in it.
Start here: Start at the filter and sump area, then move to the drain hose and sink-side connection.
You hear the machine trying to drain, but the water level barely drops.
Start here: Look for a blocked impeller area, clogged hose, or plugged air gap before assuming the motor is bad.
The cycle ends with water still inside and you do not hear the usual pump-out sound.
Start here: Check for a jam in the sump first, then consider a failed dishwasher drain pump or an electrical issue.
The tub empties partly, then dirty water reappears later.
Start here: Focus on the sink drain branch, air gap if present, and drain hose routing to rule out backflow.
This is the most common cause when water sits in the bottom and the machine still otherwise runs. Food scraps, labels, glass chips, and grease collect right where the drain path starts.
Quick check: Remove the lower rack, pull the dishwasher filter, and look for sludge or debris packed around the sump opening.
A hose can flatten behind the machine, clog with grease, or sag in a way that slows the drain badly.
Quick check: Look under the sink and behind the dishwasher for a sharp bend, crushed section, or heavy buildup where the hose connects.
If the dishwasher drains into an air gap or a branch tailpiece at the sink, that connection can plug up and make the dishwasher look like the problem.
Quick check: Remove the air gap cap if you have one and check for gunk, or disconnect the dishwasher hose at the sink-side fitting and inspect the inlet.
If the drain path is clear and the unit is silent or only hums during drain, the pump may be seized, damaged, or not moving water.
Quick check: After clearing the easy clogs, listen during a drain command. A dead-silent or harsh humming pump with no water movement points this way.
A shallow film or a little clean water below the filter area can be normal. You want to avoid tearing into a machine that is actually draining as designed.
Next move: If the water clears and only a small clean amount remains low in the sump area, the dishwasher may be draining normally. If water stays pooled in the bottom or comes back after draining, keep going.
What to conclude: You are separating normal residual water from a true no-drain or backflow problem.
This is the highest-payoff first check. Most dishwasher no-drain complaints start right here.
Next move: If the dishwasher drains normally after reassembly, the blockage was at the filter or sump. If the water still will not leave, the restriction is likely farther down the drain path or the pump is not moving water.
What to conclude: A dirty dishwasher filter can choke off flow enough to leave standing water, but a clean filter with the same symptom pushes you toward the hose, sink connection, or pump.
Once the filter area is clear, the next most common trouble spot is the hose or the place where it empties into the sink plumbing.
Next move: If water now pumps out strongly, the restriction was in the hose, air gap, or sink connection. If the hose and sink connection are clear and the dishwasher still will not drain, move on to pump behavior.
Sound and water movement tell you a lot. A working pump with a blockage sounds different from a failed pump.
Next move: If the pump sounds normal and water exits strongly after your cleaning, you likely cleared the problem. If the pump is silent, harsh, or moving almost no water with a clear drain path, plan on pump-level repair.
By now you should know whether you had a clog, a damaged hose, or a likely pump failure. The right next move is clearer and cheaper than guessing.
A good result: If the dishwasher finishes a full cycle and the tub is left with only normal residual water, the repair is done.
If not: If standing water returns even after a clear drain path and a confirmed part replacement, the problem is beyond a simple homeowner repair.
What to conclude: You have moved from cleanup into confirmed repair. Replace only the part your checks actually support.
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Most of the time it is a clogged dishwasher filter, debris in the sump, a restricted drain hose, or a blocked sink-side connection. A bad dishwasher drain pump is possible, but it is usually not the first cause.
Yes. A small amount of clean water low in the sump area can be normal. A visible puddle across the tub floor, dirty water, or floating food debris is not normal.
Yes. If the dishwasher drains into a sink tailpiece, disposal inlet, or air gap, a blockage there can stop the dishwasher from emptying or can let dirty water run back into the tub.
After the filter, hose, and sink connection are confirmed clear, a bad pump usually shows up as silence during drain, a loud hum with no water movement, or grinding from the pump area.
No. Chemical drain cleaners can damage dishwasher parts, seals, and hoses, and they create a safety hazard when you open the drain path later. Clean the filter, sump, hose, and sink connection mechanically instead.
That usually points to backflow from the sink side. Check the air gap if you have one, the sink drain branch where the dishwasher hose connects, and the hose routing under the sink.