Dirty water left after the cycle
Cloudy water, food bits, or grease sitting across the bottom when the cycle should be finished.
Start here: Go straight to the filter, sump, and lower drain path for a blockage.
Direct answer: If your KitchenAid dishwasher leaves water in the bottom, the most common cause is a blockage in the filter, sump, drain hose, or sink-side drain connection rather than a failed internal part.
Most likely: Start with the filter screen, the sump well under it, the drain hose loop, and any sink air gap or disposal connection. Food sludge, glass chips, labels, and grease are the usual culprits.
A little clean water in the sump area can be normal on some dishwashers. What is not normal is a puddle covering the bottom after the cycle ends, dirty water backing up, or water returning after you already drained it once. Reality check: most no-drain calls end with debris removal, not a major part swap. Common wrong move: running cycle after cycle and hoping it clears itself while the filter and hose stay packed with sludge.
Don’t start with: Don’t start by ordering a drain pump. Pumps do fail, but on this symptom they’re behind clogs far more often than they’re the first problem.
Cloudy water, food bits, or grease sitting across the bottom when the cycle should be finished.
Start here: Go straight to the filter, sump, and lower drain path for a blockage.
The tub looks empty at first, then a shallow pool shows up later without running the dishwasher again.
Start here: Check for sink-side backup, a clogged air gap, a disposal knockout plug, or a drain hose that is routed too low.
You hear the drain portion of the cycle, but the water level barely changes.
Start here: Look for debris jamming the drain pump area or a kinked dishwasher drain hose before assuming the pump is bad.
A little water remains down in the low spot under the filter, but dishes are clean and no water spreads across the floor of the tub.
Start here: That can be normal. Verify the water is only in the sump pocket and not covering the flat bottom of the tub.
This is the most common cause when water is dirty, smelly, or full of food debris. Small bones, glass, paper labels, and grease collect under the lower filter and choke off flow.
Quick check: Remove the lower rack, unlock the filter, and look for sludge or hard debris in the sump well.
A kink, grease plug, or low hose loop can slow draining or let sink water run back into the tub after the cycle.
Quick check: Inspect the hose under the sink for kinks, sags, or a connection point packed with gunk.
If the dishwasher shares the sink drain, a clog at the air gap or disposal inlet can stop draining even when the dishwasher itself is fine.
Quick check: If you have an air gap on the sink, pop the cap and check for debris. If the dishwasher was recently installed, confirm the disposal knockout plug was removed.
This moves up the list when the filter and hose are clear, the unit hums during drain, or the pump gets power but cannot move water.
Quick check: After clearing blockages, run a drain cycle and listen for a strong water rush versus a weak hum or clicking.
Some dishwashers keep a small amount of water in the sump to protect seals. You want to separate normal leftover sump water from a true no-drain condition before taking anything apart.
Next move: If you only see a little clean water down in the sump pocket, you likely do not have a repair problem. If water is covering the tub bottom or returning later, keep going.
What to conclude: This tells you whether you are chasing a real blockage or just seeing the normal low-point water that many dishwashers keep.
This is the highest-payoff check on a dishwasher that leaves water behind. Most of the time the restriction is right under the lower rack where food sludge and broken debris collect.
Next move: If the next drain cycle clears the tub, the blockage was at the filter or sump. If the water level barely changes, move to the drain path under the sink.
What to conclude: A packed filter or obstructed sump starves the drain path and can also make the pump sound weak even when the pump itself is still good.
When the dishwasher and sink share a drain, the restriction is often outside the dishwasher. This is especially likely if water drains out and then slowly comes back.
Next move: If cleaning the air gap or sink connection restores a strong drain, the dishwasher itself was not the failed part. If the sink-side path is clear, inspect the dishwasher drain hose itself next.
A drain hose can look fine from the front and still be pinched behind the machine, clogged with grease, or routed in a way that traps dirty water.
Next move: If the dishwasher now drains fast and stays empty, the hose or hose routing was the problem. If the hose path is clear and the dishwasher still only hums or drains weakly, the drain pump becomes the likely fault.
Once the filter, sump, air gap, disposal inlet, and drain hose are all clear, a weak or jammed dishwasher drain pump is the main remaining cause.
A good result: If the dishwasher drains strongly now, verify it stays empty for a few hours and then put it back in service.
If not: If it still leaves water after all drain-path checks, the drain pump is the most supported repair part on this symptom.
What to conclude: At this point you have ruled out the common blockage spots, so a pump problem is no longer a guess-buy situation.
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A small amount of clean water down in the sump pocket can be normal. Water spread across the flat bottom of the tub after the cycle ends is not.
That usually points to backflow from the sink side. Check the air gap, sink drain, disposal inlet, and make sure the dishwasher drain hose has a proper high loop.
Yes. A packed dishwasher filter or debris in the sump can slow the flow enough that the tub never fully empties, even though the pump still runs.
Suspect the dishwasher drain pump after the filter, sump, air gap, disposal connection, and drain hose are all confirmed clear. A weak hum with little water movement is a common clue.
No. Drain chemicals can damage dishwasher hoses, seals, and pump parts. Start with manual cleaning of the filter, sump, air gap, and drain hose instead.