Direct answer: If your Asko dishwasher is not draining, the most common cause is a blockage in the filter, sump, drain hose, or sink-side drain path. Start there before you suspect an internal part failure.
Most likely: Food sludge, glass chips, labels, or grease are slowing the water at the bottom of the tub and backing up the drain path.
First figure out whether you have a little clean water left after the cycle, a tub full of dirty water, or a dishwasher that keeps trying to drain. Those look similar from the kitchen floor, but they point you in different directions. Reality check: a shallow puddle under the filter can be normal on some machines, but standing water over the filter is not. Common wrong move: running cycle after cycle with dirty water still in the tub just packs debris tighter into the filter and hose.
Don’t start with: Don’t start by ordering a dishwasher drain pump. On this symptom, a clog is more common than a failed pump.
There is enough water in the bottom that you can see a pool above the filter area or it sloshes when you pull the lower rack.
Start here: Start with the filter, sump well, and drain path to the sink before anything else.
You see a thin ring or shallow puddle near the lowest part of the tub, but not a deep pool.
Start here: Confirm it is more than the normal low spot, then clean the filter and run a drain test.
The dishwasher sounds like it is trying to pump out, but the water level barely changes.
Start here: Look for a jammed sump, kinked dishwasher drain hose, or sink-side blockage before suspecting the pump.
You hear repeated draining, or the machine seems stuck trying to empty water.
Start here: If it keeps draining continuously, the problem may fit a different symptom and needs a separate leak or overfill check.
This is the most common reason for water left in the tub. Food scraps, broken glass, paper labels, and grease collect right where the drain path starts.
Quick check: Remove the lower rack and filter pieces, then look for sludge or hard debris in the sump opening.
If the pump can run but water cannot get out, the hose may be pinched behind the machine or packed with grease and debris.
Quick check: Check the visible hose routing under the sink for a sharp bend, sag, or clog near the sink connection.
When the dishwasher drain path meets a clogged air gap, disposer inlet, or sink tailpiece, the dishwasher backs up even though the machine itself is fine.
Quick check: If your sink drains slowly too, or water spits from the air gap, inspect the sink-side connection first.
After the filter, sump, hose, and sink connection are clear, a pump that only hums, trips, or moves very little water becomes more likely.
Quick check: Listen during drain. A healthy pump usually gives a steady drain sound and moves water quickly, not just a low hum with no flow.
A little water in the low spot can be normal. You want to separate normal leftover moisture from true standing water before taking things apart.
Next move: If the tub finishes nearly dry except for a trace in the low spot, you likely do not have a true no-drain failure. If water stands in the bottom again, move to the filter and sump checks.
What to conclude: This tells you whether you are chasing a real blockage or just normal residual water.
This is the highest-payoff check on a dishwasher that will not drain. Most no-drain calls end here.
Next move: If the dishwasher drains normally after reassembly, the blockage was at the filter or sump. If the tub still holds water, the restriction is likely farther down the drain path or the pump is not moving water well.
What to conclude: A dirty filter or jammed sump can stop water before it ever reaches the hose.
A dishwasher can only drain as well as the hose and sink connection allow. A clog under the sink is common and easy to miss.
Next move: If water now pumps out strongly, the blockage was in the hose or sink-side connection. If the hose path is clear and the sink drains fine, listen closely to the dishwasher during the next drain attempt.
Sound and water movement tell you a lot. A blocked path and a failing pump do not sound the same in the field.
Next move: If you get a strong burst of water and the tub empties, recheck for a partial clog that may have broken loose and then verify with another full cycle. If the pump only hums or drains very weakly with a clear path, the drain pump is the leading suspect.
By now you should know whether this was a clog you cleared, a hose issue, or a likely pump problem. The last step is to verify the fix or stop before guesswork starts.
A good result: If the dishwasher finishes the cycle and leaves no standing water above the filter, the repair path was correct.
If not: If the tub still fills with standing water after these checks, professional diagnosis is the clean next move.
What to conclude: You have either solved the blockage, confirmed a hose failure, or narrowed it to a pump-level repair.
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Most of the time it is a clogged dishwasher filter, debris in the sump, or a restriction in the dishwasher drain hose or sink-side connection. A small low-spot puddle can be normal, but standing water above the filter is not.
If you have already cleared the filter, sump, hose, and sink connection and the dishwasher still only hums or drains very weakly, the dishwasher drain pump becomes much more likely. If clearing debris restores strong flow, it was a clog.
Yes. If the sink drain, air gap, or sink-side dishwasher connection is restricted, the dishwasher can back up even when the machine itself is fine. Slow sink draining is a strong clue.
A trace of water in the lowest spot can be normal on some dishwashers. What is not normal is a visible pool above the filter area or dirty water that stays in the tub after the cycle ends.
No. Liquid drain cleaners can damage dishwasher parts and create a safety mess when you open hoses or reach into the sump. Stick with manual cleaning of the filter, sump, hose, and sink-side connection.