Tub full of water and cycle ended
The washer appears done, but there is standing water in the tub and the clothes are soaked.
Start here: Start with the cycle setting and a fresh drain or spin command, then move to the hose and pump filter.
Washer Drain Problem
Washer Won’t Drain Water
Direct answer: If a washer won’t drain water, the most common causes are a paused or wrong cycle, an out-of-balance load that never reaches drain or spin properly, a kinked washer drain hose, or a clogged washer drain pump filter.
Most likely: Start with the easy stuff: make sure the cycle actually includes drain and spin, redistribute a heavy wet load, then check the washer drain hose and any pump cleanout filter for blockage.
A washer that finishes with standing water can look like a dead pump, but plenty of machines are just stuck before the drain step or fighting a simple blockage. Separate those two early and you save a lot of wasted teardown. If the tub is full, work slowly and expect some water when you open any drain path.
Don’t start with: Don’t start by ordering a washer control board or even a washer drain pump. A sock, coin, or hose kink causes this problem a lot more often than an electrical failure.
Tub still full after the cycle?Cancel the cycle, run a dedicated drain or spin cycle, and listen for humming, draining, or silence.
Hums but water stays put?Check the washer drain hose and pump filter before you assume the washer drain pump is bad.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-01
What this usually looks like
Washer hums or buzzes when it should drain
You hear the machine trying to work, but little or no water leaves the tub.
Start here: That usually points to a blockage at the washer drain pump filter, pump inlet, or washer drain hose.
Washer will not move into spin
The load stays heavy and wet, and the machine may pause, rebalance, or stop with water still inside.
Start here: Check for an overloaded or badly bunched load first, then use the related spin troubleshooting if draining is not the only problem.
Water drains slowly or backs up
Some water leaves, but it takes too long, gurgles, or comes back into the tub.
Start here: Look for a partially clogged washer drain hose or a house drain restriction before replacing washer parts.
Most likely causes
1. Wrong cycle, pause state, or lid/door not fully recognized
Some cycles hold water by design, and many washers will not drain or spin normally if the door or lid is not fully latched.
Quick check: Cancel the current cycle and run Drain/Spin. Make sure the door or lid closes firmly and the machine actually starts that command.
2. Out-of-balance or overloaded load
A heavy blanket, rug, or one-sided load can keep the washer from reaching full drain and spin behavior.
Quick check: Open the washer, redistribute the load, remove a few heavy items if packed tight, then try Drain/Spin again.
3. Clogged washer drain pump filter or debris in the pump
Coins, hair pins, lint, and small clothing items commonly jam the drain path and make the pump hum without moving water.
Quick check: If your washer has a service filter or cleanout, drain the water safely and inspect for debris before buying parts.
4. Kinked washer drain hose or weak washer drain pump
A crushed hose can stop flow completely, and a worn pump may hum, leak, or fail to move water even after clogs are cleared.
Quick check: Pull the washer forward enough to inspect the full hose run. If the hose is clear and the pump still only hums or stays silent during drain, the pump becomes more likely.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Make sure it is actually stuck on draining, not just on the wrong cycle
A lot of washers get blamed for a drain failure when they are paused, set to a soak-type cycle, or waiting on a door or lid signal.
- Cancel the current cycle completely.
- Select a dedicated Drain/Spin cycle if your washer has one.
- Close the door or lid firmly and press Start.
- Listen for what happens in the first minute: draining water, a steady hum, repeated clicking, or nothing at all.
- If the load is one heavy item or badly bunched, redistribute it before trying again.
Next move: If the washer drains now, the problem was likely cycle selection, a paused state, or a load-balance issue rather than a failed part. If it still leaves water, move to the drain path checks before assuming the pump is bad.
What to conclude: This separates a simple operating issue from a real blockage or component problem.
Stop if:
- You smell burning insulation or hot plastic.
- The washer trips a breaker when drain starts.
- Water is already spilling onto the floor.
Step 2: Check the washer drain hose for a simple blockage or bad routing
A kinked, crushed, or shoved-too-far drain hose can stop water flow just as effectively as a bad pump.
- Unplug the washer.
- Pull it forward carefully and inspect the washer drain hose from the back of the machine to the standpipe or laundry sink.
- Straighten any sharp kinks or crushed spots.
- Make sure the hose is not jammed so deep into the standpipe that it seals the opening tightly.
- If you can safely remove the hose end, check for lint clumps or debris at the outlet and clear it.
Next move: If the washer drains after correcting the hose, you found the restriction and likely do not need parts. If the hose looks clear and routing is reasonable, the blockage is more likely at the washer pump filter, pump inlet, or inside the pump.
What to conclude: This rules out the most accessible drain restriction without opening the machine further.
Step 3: Open the washer drain pump filter or cleanout if your model has one
This is the highest-payoff check on many front-load and some high-efficiency washers. Small debris here is common and easy to miss.
- Keep the washer unplugged.
- Place towels and a shallow pan at the access area because water will come out.
- Open the service panel or cleanout access.
- Loosen the filter cap slowly to control the water flow.
- Remove lint, coins, hair pins, and fabric debris from the filter and the cavity behind it.
- Check that the pump impeller behind the filter is not jammed by a small object and can move freely with light finger pressure if accessible.
Next move: If the washer drains normally after cleaning the filter, the clog was the problem and no replacement part is needed. If the filter was clear or the pump impeller is damaged, loose, or jammed hard, the washer drain pump becomes a strong suspect.
Step 4: Listen to the pump and decide whether you have a clog or a failed washer drain pump
The sound during drain tells you a lot. A humming pump with no flow usually means blockage or a jam. A silent pump after the machine commands drain points more toward a failed pump or an electrical issue.
- Reinstall the filter if you removed it and reconnect anything you opened.
- Plug the washer back in.
- Run Drain/Spin again and listen near the lower front or lower rear where the washer drain pump sits.
- If you hear a steady hum but little water movement, recheck for debris in the pump inlet, outlet, and hose path.
- If the pump is silent while the washer clearly advances into drain, the pump may have failed or the machine may have a lid or door lock issue preventing drain.
- If the washer also will not spin, use the related washer-not-spinning problem next because drain and spin failures often overlap.
Next move: If clearing the path restores draining, stay with cleanup and verification instead of replacing parts. If the pump hums with a clear path or stays dead during a drain command, plan on a washer drain pump diagnosis or replacement.
Step 5: Finish with the right next move
Once the easy blockages are ruled out, the goal is to either complete the repair cleanly or stop before you waste money on the wrong part.
- If you found and cleared a clog, run a short rinse and drain cycle, then check for normal water removal and no leaks.
- If the washer drain hose is damaged, replace the washer drain hose rather than taping or patching it.
- If the drain path is clear and the washer drain pump only hums, leaks, has a broken impeller, or stays silent during a drain command, replace the washer drain pump.
- If the washer still holds water and also will not spin or unlock properly, switch to the related washer-not-spinning or washer-door-wont-unlock problem because the issue may not be the pump alone.
- If the house standpipe or laundry sink backs up while the washer tries to drain, stop chasing washer parts and clear the home drain line first.
If that issue is confirmed: Washer door wont unlock
A good result: You end up with a washer that drains fully, spins out the load, and leaves no leaks around the pump access or hose connections.
If not: If a new pump does not solve it, the remaining causes are usually a door or lid sensing problem, wiring issue, or control problem that is better confirmed with model-specific service steps.
What to conclude: You have either fixed the drain restriction, confirmed a bad washer drain pump, or narrowed it to a non-pump issue without blind part buying.
Replacement Parts
Repair Riot may earn a commission from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
FAQ
Why is my washer full of water after the cycle ends?
Most often the washer did not complete the drain step because of a blocked pump filter, a kinked washer drain hose, or a load-balance problem that interrupted spin and drain. Start with Drain/Spin, then check the hose and filter.
Can a washer still spin a little if it is not draining right?
Yes. Some washers will tumble or attempt a partial spin while water is still in the tub, but they will not finish the cycle properly. If clothes come out very wet, treat it as a drain problem first and then check the spin issue if needed.
My washer hums but will not drain. Is the pump bad?
Maybe, but not automatically. A humming washer drain pump often means it is trying to run against a clog or a jammed impeller. Clear the filter, pump cavity, and washer drain hose before replacing the pump.
Should I use a drain cleaner in the washer or standpipe?
No. Do not pour drain cleaner into the washer. It can damage parts and create a nasty spill when you open the drain path. If the home standpipe is clogged, clear that drain separately using the right plumbing method.
How do I know if it is the washer or the house drain?
If the washer pump sounds normal but the standpipe or laundry sink backs up, the home drain is the problem. If water never reaches the standpipe because it stays in the tub, the blockage or failure is more likely inside the washer drain path.
What if the washer will not drain and the door stays locked?
That is common because many washers keep the door locked when water remains in the tub. Focus on draining the water first. If the lock problem continues after the tub is empty, use the washer door wont unlock guide next.