Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the shock absorber is the likely problem
- Run the washer empty into a spin cycle if it is safe to do so.
- Watch for heavy tub bouncing, hard banging from the lower cabinet area, or the washer walking even though the floor is solid and the machine is level.
- Open the washer and press the basket or tub down by hand if accessible. A tub that drops and rebounds too freely can point to a worn shock absorber.
- Look underneath or through the access area for a loose, broken, or leaking shock absorber.
If it works: The washer shows clear signs of poor tub damping, and a worn or failed shock absorber is a reasonable repair path.
If it doesn’t: If the washer is stable and the tub feels controlled, check for leveling problems, an overloaded drum, or other suspension parts before ordering a shock absorber.
Stop if:- The washer cabinet, tub mount, or shock mounting bracket is cracked or badly bent.
- You find major water leakage, burnt wiring, or severe rust around the support area.
- The machine is so unstable that testing it further could cause damage or injury.
Step 2: Shut the washer down and make room to work
- Unplug the washer from the outlet.
- Turn off the water supply valves if you need to pull the washer away from the wall for access.
- Slide the washer forward carefully and place a towel or shallow pan nearby in case of minor drips.
- Remove the panel or access cover needed to reach the lower tub support area.
If it works: The washer is disconnected from power, positioned safely, and the shock absorber area is accessible.
If it doesn’t: If you still cannot reach the lower tub area, look for a rear, front, or bottom access panel and remove only what is needed for clear access.
Stop if:- You cannot move the washer safely by yourself.
- A panel is stuck because of hidden fasteners and forcing it may damage the cabinet.
- You see standing water inside the cabinet near electrical parts.
Step 3: Support the tub and remove the worn shock absorber
- Use one hand to steady or slightly lift the tub so the shock absorber is not under full tension.
- Inspect how the old shock absorber is mounted before removal so you can match the new part's orientation.
- Remove the retaining clips, pins, or bolts from the upper and lower shock mounts.
- Pull the old shock absorber free from the tub and base mounts.
If it works: The old shock absorber is out, and the mounting points are exposed for inspection.
If it doesn’t: If the shock will not come free, relieve more tub pressure by gently lifting the tub and recheck for a hidden clip or fastener.
Stop if:- The mounting holes are wallowed out, cracked, or no longer hold the hardware securely.
- The tub support or base frame shifts abnormally when the shock is removed.
- The replacement part does not match the old shock's length, ends, or mounting style.
Step 4: Install the new washer shock absorber
- Compare the new washer shock absorber to the old one for length, end fittings, and mounting style.
- Position the new shock absorber in the same orientation as the original.
- Attach one end first, then line up the other end by gently moving the tub as needed.
- Reinstall the original clips, pins, or bolts and make sure each fastener is fully seated and secure.
- If your washer uses more than one shock absorber and the others are clearly worn, replace them as a set so damping stays even.
If it works: The new shock absorber is installed securely with both ends fully seated and the tub supported evenly.
If it doesn’t: If the holes do not line up, recheck the part fit and tub position before forcing any hardware.
Stop if:- A clip, pin, or bolt will not lock in place securely.
- The new shock binds badly or sits at an obvious angle because the mount is damaged.
- You have to force the part enough that the bracket or tub support starts to bend.
Step 5: Reassemble the washer and check tub movement by hand
- Reinstall the access panel or cover you removed.
- Move the washer back into position without crushing the hoses or power cord.
- If you shut the water off, turn the supply valves back on and check for leaks at the hose connections you disturbed.
- Press the basket or tub down by hand again if accessible and feel for more controlled movement with less free bouncing.
- Level the washer feet if it rocks on the floor.
If it works: The washer is back together, stable on the floor, and the tub movement feels more controlled than before.
If it doesn’t: If the washer still rocks on the floor, adjust the leveling feet before running a test cycle.
Stop if:- You notice a new water leak after moving the washer back.
- The cabinet rocks because the floor or feet cannot be stabilized.
- The tub still feels extremely loose, suggesting another suspension part may be failing.
Step 6: Run a real test cycle and confirm the repair held
- Plug the washer back in.
- Run a rinse and spin or short wash cycle with a few towels to give the tub a normal test load.
- Listen during agitation and spin for reduced banging and watch that the washer stays in place.
- After the cycle, recheck the access area quickly to make sure the new shock absorber is still seated and no hardware has shifted.
If it works: The washer completes the test cycle with controlled tub movement, less banging, and no walking across the floor.
If it doesn’t: If the washer still shakes hard or walks, inspect the remaining shocks, springs, suspension rods, tub bearings, and leveling before replacing more parts.
Stop if:- The washer becomes violently unstable during the test cycle.
- A new loud metal-on-metal impact starts during spin.
- The new shock mount loosens or pulls out during testing.
Replacement Parts
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FAQ
How do I know a washer shock absorber is bad?
Common signs are hard banging during spin, excessive tub bounce, and a washer that walks even when it is level. A visual check may also show a broken, loose, or leaking shock absorber.
Should I replace just one washer shock absorber or all of them?
If your washer uses multiple shocks and the others are the same age, replacing them together often gives more even support. If only one is clearly damaged and the others are still firm and secure, some homeowners replace only the failed one.
Can a bad shock absorber make the washer walk across the floor?
Yes. When the tub is not damped properly, spin vibration can transfer into the cabinet and make the washer move, especially with heavier loads.
What if replacing the shock absorber does not fix the shaking?
Check that the washer is level and not overloaded, then inspect other suspension parts such as springs, rods, or tub supports. If the tub bearings or mounting points are damaged, the shock absorber alone will not solve the problem.
Do I need to turn off the water to replace a washer shock absorber?
Not always. If you can access the repair area without moving the washer much, you may only need to unplug it. If you need to pull the washer out, turning off the water is a smart precaution.