Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the shock absorbers are the likely problem
- Run the washer only if it is safe to do so and watch for symptoms during spin: hard banging, the cabinet walking, or the tub bouncing excessively instead of settling quickly.
- Open the lid or door when the machine is off and push the basket or tub assembly gently to one side if accessible. A suspension with worn shocks often feels loose and slow to control movement.
- Check the simple causes first: make sure the washer is level, the load was not badly out of balance, and shipping bolts are not still installed on a newer machine.
- Look underneath or through the access area for obvious signs of failed shocks such as leaking fluid, broken plastic ends, bent mounts, or a shock hanging loose.
If it works: You have strong signs the washer shock absorbers are worn or damaged and replacement makes sense.
If it doesn’t: If the washer is level and stable but still shakes with no visible shock damage, inspect other suspension parts before ordering anything.
Stop if:- The washer cabinet, tub mounts, or frame are cracked or badly bent.
- You find major water leakage onto electrical parts or the motor area.
- The machine still has shipping hardware installed; remove that first instead of replacing parts.
Step 2: Unplug the washer and open the access area
- Turn the washer off and unplug it from the outlet.
- Pull the washer forward enough to work comfortably and protect the floor if needed.
- If you need more room, shut off the water supply valves and carefully disconnect the hoses only after you are ready with a towel or shallow pan.
- Remove the panel that gives the clearest access to the shocks. On many washers this is a front lower, rear, or full front panel.
- Use a flashlight to locate all shock absorbers before removing anything so you understand how they mount between the tub and base.
Step 3: Support the tub and remove the old shock absorbers
- Support the tub lightly with one hand or a wood block if needed so it does not shift when a shock is removed.
- Take a photo of each shock position before removal so the new parts go back the same way.
- Remove the retaining pin, clip, screw, or bolt from one end of the first shock, then remove the fastener from the other end.
- Pull the old shock free. If it is stuck, wiggle it while supporting the tub instead of prying hard on the mount.
- Repeat for the remaining shocks, replacing them one at a time or keeping the old parts laid out in order for reference.
Step 4: Install the new shock absorbers
- Compare the new shocks to the old ones for length, end style, and mounting points before installation.
- Install each new shock in the same orientation as the original part.
- Start one end by hand, then align the other end by gently moving the tub until the pin, clip, or fastener slides into place.
- Tighten screws or bolts firmly without overtightening plastic mounts.
- Repeat until all new shocks are installed, then tug each one lightly to confirm it is fully seated and locked in.
If it doesn’t: If the new shocks do not line up or the hardware will not seat, recheck part fit and compare each mount to your reference photo.
Step 5: Reassemble the washer and restore power
- Reinstall the access panel and any screws you removed.
- Reconnect the water hoses if you disconnected them, then open the supply valves and check for leaks at the hose connections.
- Move the washer back into place carefully without crushing the drain hose or power cord.
- Level the washer if needed so all feet are firmly on the floor.
- Plug the washer back in.
Step 6: Test the repair with a real spin cycle
- Run a rinse and spin or a short cycle with a few towels so the washer reaches a normal spin speed under load.
- Listen for banging and watch whether the cabinet stays in place better than before.
- After the cycle, open the washer and check that the tub feels more controlled when moved by hand.
- Look underneath one more time for any loose fasteners, shifted shocks, or fresh leaks if hoses were removed.
If it works: The washer spins with much less bouncing or banging, and the repair holds during real use.
If it doesn’t: If shaking is still severe, check for worn suspension springs, damaged tub supports, an unlevel floor, or another suspension problem.
Stop if:- The washer still slams violently, walks hard, or shows signs of a damaged tub or frame.
- A new shock has come loose or a mount is deforming during the test.
Replacement Parts
Repair Riot may earn a commission from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
FAQ
Should washer shock absorbers be replaced as a set?
Yes. Replacing them as a set helps keep the suspension balanced. Mixing one new shock with older worn ones can leave the washer unstable.
What symptoms point to bad washer shock absorbers?
Common signs are loud banging in spin, the washer walking, excessive tub movement, and a basket that feels poorly controlled when pushed by hand.
Can I keep using the washer with worn shock absorbers?
It is better to fix it soon. Continued use can put extra stress on the tub mounts, springs, cabinet, and other suspension parts.
Do I need to remove the whole tub to replace washer shock absorbers?
Usually no. On many washers the shocks are reached through a front, rear, or lower access panel. The exact access point varies by machine.
What if replacing the shocks does not stop the shaking?
Check the washer leveling, load balance, floor stability, and other suspension parts such as springs or support rods. A damaged tub or frame can also cause severe movement.