Washer noise troubleshooting

Whirlpool Washer Clicking During Spin

Direct answer: If your Whirlpool washer clicks during spin, the most common causes are an off-balance load, a washer cabinet that is not sitting solid on the floor, or worn washer suspension parts letting the tub shift and tap during spin-up.

Most likely: A repeating click that starts as the basket speeds up and gets worse with heavy loads usually points to movement: the load is uneven, a leveling foot is loose, or the tub support is worn enough to let parts knock together.

First pin down the sound. A light click only during spin-up is different from a hard knock through the whole spin cycle. Reality check: washers make some normal relay and lid-lock sounds, but a new repeating click from the cabinet or tub area is worth chasing. Common wrong move: stuffing the washer tighter to stop movement usually makes the noise worse.

Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a motor, transmission, or control board. A lot of spin clicking is just movement, not a major drive failure.

If the click changes with load sizeStart with balance, leveling, and floor contact before opening anything.
If the click is hard, fast, and comes with tub wobbleInspect the washer suspension and stop using it if the basket is striking the cabinet.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17

What the clicking sounds like matters here

Light clicking only as the washer ramps up

You hear a short burst of clicks as the basket starts spinning, then the sound fades once full speed is reached.

Start here: Check load balance and make sure all washer leveling feet are firmly planted.

Repeating click through the whole spin cycle

The sound keeps time with basket movement and may get louder with towels, jeans, or bulky items.

Start here: Look for cabinet movement and worn washer suspension parts.

Clicking with shaking or walking

The washer rocks, shifts, or thumps the floor while clicking during spin.

Start here: Level the washer first, then inspect for weak washer suspension rods or shocks depending on the design.

Sharp click or knock from one side

The sound seems to come from one corner or side panel, especially on uneven floors or off-center loads.

Start here: Check for a loose washer leveling foot, cabinet contact, or a tub that is leaning to one side.

Most likely causes

1. Off-balance or bulky load

This is the most common reason for clicking during spin. A heavy item can pull the basket off center and make the tub support work harder as speed builds.

Quick check: Run a small rinse and spin with the washer empty. If the clicking is gone or much lighter, the load was likely the trigger.

2. Washer not level or a loose leveling foot

A washer that rocks even a little can click against the floor or let the tub shift enough to make noise during spin.

Quick check: Press down on the front corners and then the rear corners. If one corner lifts or the cabinet teeters, leveling needs attention.

3. Worn washer suspension rods or washer shock absorbers

When support parts weaken, the tub leans, rebounds too far, and starts tapping or clicking as it spins up or handles heavier loads.

Quick check: With the washer empty and off, press the basket down by hand and let it rise. Excessive bounce or a tub that sits noticeably off center points this way.

4. Loose item contact inside the washer cabinet area

A hose, harness clip, or cabinet panel can click when vibration increases, especially if the machine was recently moved.

Quick check: Listen with the top or side area in mind while the washer enters spin. A lighter plastic-style tick near one panel often fits this better than a deep mechanical knock.

Step-by-step fix

Step 1: Confirm the sound pattern before you move the washer

You want to separate a normal spin-up sound from a real movement problem. The timing of the click tells you where to look next.

  1. Run a spin cycle with the washer empty if that is safe for your model and setup, or use a small balanced load like a few towels spread evenly.
  2. Stand beside the washer and note exactly when the clicking starts: at spin-up, only at high speed, or through the full spin.
  3. Watch the cabinet. Look for rocking, walking, or one side lifting slightly as the basket speeds up.
  4. Listen for whether the sound is a light plastic tick, a metal tap, or a heavier knock.

Next move: If the clicking is gone empty and only shows up with mixed heavy items, start with loading habits and leveling rather than parts. If the clicking is still there with an empty or small balanced load, the washer itself is likely moving too much or something inside is loose.

What to conclude: Load-related clicking usually points to balance or setup. Clicking that stays with a light test load points more toward leveling or tub support wear.

Stop if:
  • The washer is banging hard enough to jump or walk.
  • You smell hot rubber, burning, or see smoke.
  • The basket appears to strike the cabinet.

Step 2: Steady the washer cabinet and correct the easy setup issues

A washer that is not planted solidly on the floor can make a surprising amount of clicking and tapping during spin.

  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Push on each top corner of the cabinet. If it rocks, adjust the washer leveling feet until all four corners sit firmly.
  3. Check that the locknuts on the leveling feet are snug if your washer uses them.
  4. Make sure the drain hose and fill hoses are not pulled tight against the back panel where vibration can make them tap.
  5. If the floor is flexible, try pressing near the front corners while the washer is idle to feel for bounce in the floor itself.

Next move: If the washer now sits solid and the clicking is gone or much better on the next spin, the problem was setup and movement, not a failed internal part. If the cabinet is solid but the tub still clicks during spin, move on to checking the tub support.

What to conclude: A stable cabinet rules out the simplest cause and makes suspension problems easier to spot.

Step 3: Check whether the tub is sitting centered and controlled

This is where worn washer suspension parts usually show themselves. You are looking for a tub that leans, rebounds too far, or favors one side.

  1. With the washer still unplugged and empty, open the lid or door if accessible and look at the basket position inside the opening.
  2. Press the basket straight down several inches and let it return. It should rise smoothly without a lot of extra bouncing.
  3. Gently push the basket toward each side. Compare how far it moves and whether one side feels looser.
  4. Look for a tub that sits visibly off center, especially closer to one side of the cabinet opening.

Next move: If the basket feels controlled, centered, and not overly bouncy, the main support parts may still be okay and the noise may be from a loose cabinet-side contact point. If the basket is bouncy, leans, or sits off center, worn washer suspension rods or washer shock absorbers are the leading suspects depending on the washer design.

Step 4: Inspect for obvious loose contact points around the tub and cabinet

Not every click is a failed support part. Sometimes a hose, harness, or panel clip is just tapping when the machine vibrates.

  1. Unplug the washer and pull it out enough to inspect the back and sides with a flashlight.
  2. Look for drain or fill hoses touching the cabinet in a way that would let them tap during vibration.
  3. Check visible panel screws and clips for looseness if they are easy to access.
  4. If your washer design allows a simple top or rear access panel removal, inspect for a loose harness clip, tub ring contact, or a support part that is obviously broken or disconnected.

Next move: If you find and secure a loose contact point, run a test spin. A light clicking that disappears after securing a hose or panel was a simple vibration issue. If nothing loose is found and the tub movement test was poor, treat the suspension as the main repair path.

Step 5: Repair the confirmed movement problem or stop using the washer until it is fixed

Once you have ruled out load balance and leveling, continued spin use can turn a support problem into cabinet damage, hose damage, or a much louder failure.

  1. If the washer was simply out of level, lock in the washer leveling feet and retest with a medium balanced load.
  2. If the tub is bouncy or off center, replace the worn washer suspension rods or washer shock absorbers that match your washer design.
  3. If a washer leveling foot is bent, stripped, or missing, replace that foot before using high-speed spin again.
  4. After the repair, run a rinse and spin with a medium load and watch for centered spin-up, reduced movement, and no repeating click.

A good result: If the washer reaches spin smoothly without clicking, rocking, or tub lean, the repair path was correct.

If not: If the clicking remains after leveling and confirmed support-part replacement, stop there and have the washer professionally checked for deeper internal wear such as bearing or drive-related damage.

What to conclude: A washer that still clicks after the movement issues are corrected is no longer in the simple DIY lane.

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FAQ

Is a clicking sound during spin normal on a Whirlpool washer?

A brief lock or relay sound can be normal, but a repeating click that starts during spin-up or continues through spin usually is not. If it is new, load-sensitive, or comes with shaking, treat it as a movement problem first.

Why does my washer click only with towels or jeans?

Heavy absorbent loads are the quickest way to expose balance and suspension problems. If the clicking shows up mostly with towels or jeans, check load distribution, washer leveling, and then the washer suspension parts.

Can an unlevel washer really make a clicking noise?

Yes. A washer that rocks on one corner can click against the floor, let hoses tap the cabinet, or allow the tub to shift farther than it should during spin. Leveling is one of the first things I check on a noisy spin complaint.

Should I keep using the washer if it still spins but clicks?

Only if the sound is minor and you have confirmed it was just a bad load or a leveling issue. If the tub is leaning, the washer is walking, or the clicking is getting louder, stop using it until the support problem is fixed.

Does clicking during spin mean the washer bearings are bad?

Not usually. Bad bearings more often sound like roaring, grinding, or a deep rumble that gets louder with speed. Clicking is more often tied to load movement, leveling, or worn washer suspension parts.