What nonstop draining looks like
Pump runs constantly
You hear the drain pump humming or rattling almost nonstop, and it stops only when you unplug the washer or cut power.
Start here: Start with cancel/reset, then check whether the control is commanding drain because the washer still thinks water is in the tub.
Washer drains while filling
Water enters, then disappears right away down the drain, so the washer never seems to fill normally.
Start here: Start with the drain hose height and how far the hose is pushed into the standpipe. This is classic siphoning.
Cycle never finishes
The washer reaches drain or spin and just sits there pumping, sometimes with a few pauses, but never completes the cycle.
Start here: Check for a partial clog, pressure hose issue, or a door or lid problem that keeps the washer from advancing.
Tub is empty but pump still runs
There is little or no water left in the tub, but the machine keeps acting like it still needs to drain.
Start here: Focus on the water-level sensing side first, especially an air dome or pressure hose problem, before assuming the pump is bad.
Most likely causes
1. Drain hose siphoning because of bad height or insertion
If the hose is too low, sealed too tightly, or shoved too far into the standpipe, the washer can pull water out as fast as it fills and keep trying to correct itself.
Quick check: Unplug the washer during fill. If water still keeps flowing out through the drain hose, the setup is wrong and the washer is being siphoned.
2. Cycle did not cancel cleanly or control is stuck in drain
A power glitch or interrupted cycle can leave some washers parked in a drain routine until they are reset.
Quick check: Use the machine's cancel or pause function, then unplug it for a few minutes and restart a simple rinse and spin cycle.
3. Washer pressure hose or water-level sensing problem
If the washer never gets a clear 'tub is full' or 'tub is empty' signal, it may keep draining or bounce between fill and drain.
Quick check: Listen for normal filling, then watch whether the washer immediately dumps that water out or acts like the tub level never changes.
4. Partial drain restriction or door/lid state preventing cycle advance
A weak drain, jammed pump impeller, or door/lid issue can leave the machine stuck at the point where it expects the tub to empty and lock conditions to be met.
Quick check: Check whether the pump sounds strained, water leaves slowly, or the washer shows a door/lid complaint or refuses to move into full spin.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Figure out whether the washer is really pumping or just losing water
This separates siphoning from an electrical or control problem fast, and it keeps you from chasing the wrong part.
- Start a small fill or rinse cycle and watch the tub for two or three minutes.
- Listen closely at the lower front or rear of the washer for the drain pump running.
- If the washer is filling and water level never rises, unplug the washer while leaving the drain hose in place.
- Watch whether water still continues to leave the tub after power is removed.
Next move: If unplugging stops all draining and the tub starts holding water normally on the next test, the issue may have been a stuck cycle that cleared with a reset. If water keeps leaving with the washer unplugged, go straight to the drain hose setup. If the pump only stops when power is removed, keep checking control and sensing causes.
What to conclude: A washer cannot power a pump while unplugged. If water still drains, that is gravity and siphoning. If draining stops with power removed, the machine is being told to drain.
Stop if:- Water is spilling onto the floor.
- You smell burning plastic or the pump gets unusually hot.
- The washer cabinet must be moved in a way that risks tipping or straining hoses.
Step 2: Check the drain hose height, insertion depth, and standpipe setup
Bad hose setup is one of the most common reasons a washer drains while filling or seems stuck in endless drain.
- Make sure the washer drain hose rises to a proper high point behind the machine before dropping into the house drain.
- Check that the hose is not pushed excessively deep into the standpipe.
- Make sure the standpipe opening is not taped or sealed tightly around the hose; it needs an air gap.
- Look for a hose lying too low on the floor, a standpipe that is unusually short, or a hose extension that changed the routing.
- Reposition the hose so it is secure, elevated, and not jammed deep into the drain opening.
Next move: If the tub now fills and holds water normally, you found the problem. Run a full cycle and keep an eye on the drain point for the first load. If the hose setup looks right and the washer still keeps draining only when powered, move on to reset and cycle-state checks.
What to conclude: A siphoning washer can look like a bad pump or bad control, but the machine is often just reacting to water being pulled out of the tub.
Step 3: Do a full cancel and power reset, then test a simple cycle
Washers sometimes get stuck in a drain routine after a power interruption, an interrupted cycle, or a failed attempt to unlock or spin.
- Press cancel, pause, or stop based on the washer's normal controls and wait a full minute.
- Unplug the washer for about five minutes.
- Reconnect power and run the simplest available rinse and spin or drain and spin cycle.
- Then run a small fill cycle and watch whether the machine fills, pauses, and advances normally.
- If the washer has a door or lid that feels loose or does not latch cleanly, note that before the next step.
Next move: If the washer returns to normal after reset, monitor it for the next few loads but do not buy parts yet. If it immediately goes back to draining or never moves past drain, the washer is still seeing a condition that tells it to pump out.
Step 4: Check for a partial clog and obvious pressure-sensing problems
A washer that cannot prove the tub emptied, or cannot read water level correctly, may keep the drain pump running long after the water is gone.
- Disconnect power before touching hoses or opening any service access.
- Inspect the washer drain hose for kinks, crushing, or lint buildup near the pump end and near the house drain connection.
- If your washer has an accessible pump cleanout or filter, open it carefully with towels ready and remove coins, lint, or debris.
- Look for a small pressure hose inside the cabinet only if it is plainly visible from a basic access panel; check for obvious disconnection, splits, or pinches.
- Reconnect everything securely and run a short test cycle.
Next move: If clearing debris or reconnecting a loose pressure hose stops the endless draining, run two test loads before calling it fixed. If the washer still drains with an empty tub and no visible blockage, the likely fault is now in the water-level sensing circuit, door/lid feedback, or the main control.
Step 5: Decide between a door or lid problem and a control-level fault
By this point you have ruled out the easy stuff. The remaining causes are usually a washer door latch or lid lock issue, a pressure-sensing fault, or a main control that keeps the pump energized.
- If the washer also struggles to lock, unlock, or start spin, treat that as a door or lid branch and inspect the latch area for damage or misalignment.
- If the washer fills, drains, and repeats with no stable water level, suspect the pressure-sensing side even if the small hose looks intact.
- If the drain pump runs continuously whenever power is on, even with an empty tub and no cycle selected, the main control may be holding the pump on.
- Use the symptom crossover pages if the washer also has door-lock or unlock problems.
- If you are not equipped to test live voltage or internal control signals, this is the point to schedule service or move to a model-specific repair guide.
A good result: If you confirm a latch problem, replace the washer door latch or lid lock assembly. If a tech confirms the control is feeding the pump constantly, replace the washer main control only after fitment is verified.
If not: If you still cannot separate sensing from control, stop before buying expensive electronics blindly.
What to conclude: You are down to the less common faults that need either a clearly matched replacement part or proper electrical testing.
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FAQ
Why does my washer keep draining even when it should be filling?
The first thing to suspect is siphoning. If the washer drain hose is too low, pushed too far into the standpipe, or sealed too tightly, water can pull right back out as the tub fills.
Can a bad washer drain pump cause nonstop draining?
Sometimes, but it is not the first bet. A drain pump usually fails by not draining or draining weakly. If it runs nonstop, the bigger question is why the washer is telling it to run.
How do I know if my washer is siphoning?
Start a fill cycle, then unplug the washer. If water still keeps leaving the tub through the drain hose with power removed, that is siphoning or a drain setup problem.
Why is my washer stuck on the drain cycle with an empty tub?
That usually points to the washer not getting the right water-level or door/lid feedback, or to a control that is stuck commanding drain. An empty tub with a pump still running is not normal pump behavior by itself.
Should I replace the control board if the washer won't stop draining?
Not until you rule out siphoning, reset the cycle, check for a partial clog, and look for door/lid or pressure-sensing issues. Control boards are expensive and easy to misdiagnose on this symptom.