Pump runs with water still in the tub
You hear the drain pump, but the tub drains slowly, backs up, or never fully empties.
Start here: Start with the drain hose routing, standpipe flow, and blockage checks.
Washer troubleshooting
Washer Pump Runs Constantly
Direct answer: If the washer pump runs constantly, the machine usually thinks it still has water in it or it is stuck in a drain-out mode. Start by checking whether there is actually water left in the tub, then look for a kinked drain hose, a partial clog, or a pressure-sensing problem before blaming the electronics.
Most likely: The most common cause is a washer that cannot fully clear water because of a drain restriction, bad hose position, or debris at the pump path. After that, a stuck pressure switch or pressure hose is the next thing to suspect.
First separate two lookalikes: a pump that runs only for a few minutes at the end of a cycle can be normal, but a pump that starts as soon as the washer powers on, keeps running with an empty tub, or will not let the cycle move on is not. Reality check: many of these calls end up being a hose or sensing issue, not a dead pump. Common wrong move: replacing the washer drain pump just because you can hear it.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a washer control board. Constant pump run is often the washer reacting to a water-level signal or drain problem, not a failed board.
Tub still has water?Treat it as a draining problem first and check the hose, standpipe, and pump path for blockage.
Tub is empty but pump keeps running?Focus on the washer pressure hose, water-level switch behavior, and a stuck drain mode or control fault.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-05
What constant pump run looks like on a washer
Pump runs with an empty tub
The washer sounds like it is draining even though there is little or no water left inside.
Start here: Start with the pressure hose and water-level sensing checks.
Pump starts right when power is restored
As soon as the washer is plugged in or turned on, the pump kicks on before you start a cycle.
Start here: Check for a flood-recovery mode first, then move to pressure sensing and control behavior.
Pump runs and the cycle never moves on
The washer keeps trying to drain and will not shift into wash or spin normally.
Start here: Look for a partial drain restriction or a false full-tub signal keeping the machine in drain mode.
Most likely causes
1. Drain hose or pump path restriction
A partial clog lets the pump run but not finish the job, so the washer keeps trying to empty the tub.
Quick check: If water leaves slowly, gurgles, or backs up at the standpipe, inspect the drain hose and pump cleanout path first.
2. Drain hose installed too deep or routed wrong
A bad hose position can cause siphoning or confused water-level behavior that keeps the washer draining.
Quick check: Make sure the washer drain hose is not jammed too far down the standpipe and is not sealed airtight at the opening.
3. Washer pressure hose or water-level switch problem
If the washer still thinks the tub is full, it may keep the drain pump running even when the tub is empty.
Quick check: With the tub empty, look for a pinched, loose, or debris-clogged pressure hose leading to the water-level sensing area.
4. Washer main control stuck in drain mode
When the tub is empty, the drain path is clear, and the level sensing checks out, the control may be holding the pump relay on.
Quick check: If the pump starts immediately on power-up with an empty tub and all hose checks are good, control failure moves higher on the list.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm whether the washer is really still full of water
You need to split a true draining problem from a false water-level signal right away. The fix path is different.
- Cancel the cycle and unplug the washer.
- Open the door or lid and look directly into the tub for standing water below the basket or drum.
- If the washer has just finished a cycle, wait a minute to make sure you are not hearing a normal short drain-out.
- Plug the washer back in and note whether the pump starts immediately or only after you select a cycle.
Next move: If you confirm there is standing water, stay on the drain-path checks next. If the tub is empty and the pump still starts or keeps running, move to the water-level sensing checks.
What to conclude: Water in the tub points to a restriction or slow drain. An empty tub with constant pump run points more toward sensing or control.
Stop if:
- Water is spilling onto the floor.
- You smell burning insulation or see signs of overheating.
- The washer trips the breaker when the pump starts.
Step 2: Check the drain hose and standpipe before opening the washer
A kinked hose, low hose loop, or standpipe issue is common and easy to miss. It can make the washer keep draining or fail to finish draining.
- Pull the washer forward enough to inspect the full visible length of the washer drain hose.
- Straighten any hard kinks or crushed spots.
- Make sure the hose is not shoved excessively deep into the standpipe and is not taped or sealed airtight at the top.
- Look for slow drainage, overflow, or backing up at the standpipe while the washer pumps out.
- If safe to do so, remove the hose from the standpipe and check the hose end for lint clumps or debris.
Next move: If correcting the hose position or clearing debris stops the constant pump run, run a rinse and drain cycle to confirm normal operation. If the hose routing looks right and the washer still keeps pumping, check the internal drain path and filter area next.
What to conclude: A visible hose problem or standpipe backup means the washer may be reacting to real water that is not leaving properly.
Step 3: Clear the washer pump filter or pump inlet path if your model has access
Coins, lint, small socks, and debris often let the pump run but cut flow enough that the washer never sees an empty-tub condition.
- Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply if moving the machine is required for access.
- Place towels and a shallow pan at the pump access area because trapped water may come out fast.
- Open the service panel or access point for the washer pump filter if your washer has one.
- Slowly loosen the filter cap or cleanout and remove lint, coins, hair pins, and other debris.
- Reach only as far as you can safely access and check that the pump impeller is not jammed by debris.
- Reinstall the filter cap securely and restore power.
Next move: If the washer now drains strongly and the pump shuts off normally, the blockage was the problem. If the tub is empty but the pump still runs, move to the pressure hose and water-level sensing check.
Step 4: Inspect the washer pressure hose and water-level sensing path
When the tub is empty but the washer still thinks it is full, the drain pump may run continuously as a protective response.
- Unplug the washer before removing any top or rear panel needed for access.
- Locate the small washer pressure hose that runs from the tub or air dome area to the water-level switch or sensor.
- Check for a loose connection, pinch, rub-through, soap sludge, or water trapped where only air should be moving.
- Remove the hose only if you can do it cleanly and put it back exactly as found.
- Inspect the hose port for lint or residue and clear only visible blockage with gentle air or careful cleaning, not sharp tools.
- Reconnect the hose firmly and make sure it is not kinked when panels go back on.
Next move: If the pump stops running constantly after restoring the pressure hose path, run a small cycle and watch the fill, wash, and drain transitions. If the hose is intact, the tub is empty, and the washer still goes straight into drain, the control or level sensor itself is more likely.
Step 5: Decide between a failed level-sensing part and a stuck control
Once the tub is empty and the drain path is clear, the remaining likely causes are the parts that tell the washer when to stop draining or the board that powers the pump.
- Restore power with the washer reassembled and the tub empty.
- Watch whether the pump starts immediately on power-up or only after a cycle command.
- If the washer always behaves as if it is in emergency drain with an empty tub, suspect the washer water-level switch or pressure sensor path first if that hose check was questionable.
- If the pressure hose is sound, the tub is empty, and the pump still runs continuously or the cycle logic is erratic, suspect the washer main control board.
- Use the model-specific tech sheet only if you already have it; otherwise, this is the point where many homeowners either replace the clearly supported sensing part or call for electrical diagnosis.
A good result: If replacing the confirmed failed sensing part or control restores normal cycle progression, finish with a full rinse and spin test.
If not: If a new part does not change the behavior, stop and get a professional diagnosis before buying more parts.
What to conclude: At this point the simple drain causes are mostly ruled out, so the problem is usually in water-level sensing or the control that keeps the pump relay energized.
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FAQ
Why does my washer start draining as soon as I turn it on?
That usually means the washer thinks there is still water in the tub or it has entered a protective drain-out mode. Check first for actual standing water, then inspect the drain hose position and the washer pressure hose or level-sensing path.
Can a clogged drain hose make the washer pump run constantly?
Yes. A partial clog can let the pump run without clearing water fast enough, so the washer keeps trying to drain. You may hear steady pump noise, see slow flow at the standpipe, or find water still sitting in the tub.
If I can hear the pump, does that mean the pump is good?
Not always. It means the motor is getting power and trying to run, but the real problem may still be a blockage, a jammed impeller, weak pumping, or a washer that is being told to keep draining by the level-sensing system.
Is it usually the control board?
No. On this symptom, a bad control board is not the first bet. Hose routing, drain restrictions, and pressure-sensing problems are more common and cheaper to fix, so rule those out first.
Can I keep using the washer if the pump keeps running?
It is better not to. Constant pump run can overheat the pump, hide a drainage problem, or point to an electrical control issue. Use it again only after you confirm the tub drains properly and the pump shuts off normally.
What if the washer pump runs constantly and there is also water on the floor?
Treat that as a leak problem first and stop using the washer until you find the source. A leaking hose, pump housing, or backup at the standpipe can turn a simple repair into floor damage fast.