Clicking once every turn
The sound repeats in the same spot each time the basket or drum rotates.
Start here: Look for a loose item in the drum, something caught between tubs, or a damaged spot the drum passes once per turn.
Direct answer: A washer clicking noise is usually caused by something simple first: a zipper or button tapping the drum, a load shifting, the washer sitting out of level, or a small item caught where it should not be. If the click shows up mainly during drain or spin, the problem starts leaning toward the drain pump, belt area, or worn suspension parts.
Most likely: Start by pinning down exactly when the clicking happens: hand-turning the drum, filling, agitating, draining, or spinning. That timing tells you more than the sound by itself.
Most clicking noises are not mystery electronics problems. They are usually something physically tapping, catching, or shifting. Reality check: a single click here and there during load sensing can be normal on some machines, but a steady click every rotation or a click that gets louder under spin is not. Common wrong move: running three more loads to 'see if it clears up' after the click turns rhythmic, because that is when a loose item or worn support part can start damaging the tub or pump.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a motor, bearing, or control part just because the washer makes a repeated click.
The sound repeats in the same spot each time the basket or drum rotates.
Start here: Look for a loose item in the drum, something caught between tubs, or a damaged spot the drum passes once per turn.
The washer is quieter in wash but starts clicking faster as speed builds.
Start here: Check load balance and leveling first, then look for worn washer suspension or a belt-area click on belt-driven models.
The click starts when water is pumping out and may come with slow draining or a rough pump sound.
Start here: Inspect the drain pump path for coins, pins, or debris before assuming a bigger failure.
With no clothes inside, the washer still clicks during hand rotation or a short cycle.
Start here: That points away from clothing hardware and more toward a trapped object, pump debris, or internal support wear.
This is the most common cause when the click is light, rhythmic, and changes with different loads.
Quick check: Run the washer empty and hand-turn the drum. If the click disappears with no clothes, inspect pockets, bra hooks, zippers, and metal snaps.
Coins, screws, and hair pins often make a sharp repeating click, especially during drain or at one point in rotation.
Quick check: Look inside the drum holes and door boot area, then listen near the lower front of the washer during drain.
A tilted washer lets the tub shift farther than it should, which can create clicking or light knocking before it turns into banging.
Quick check: Push on the top corners. If the cabinet rocks, level the feet and retry with a small balanced load.
If the click stays with an empty machine and gets more obvious in spin, support parts or a worn belt can be letting something catch or slap.
Quick check: Watch for excessive tub movement, a low-sitting basket, or a repeating click from underneath during spin-up.
The timing separates normal load movement from pump, drum, and support problems fast.
Next move: If you can tie the sound to one part of the cycle, the next check gets much narrower and you avoid guessing at parts. If the sound is hard to place, move to the simple physical checks anyway. Most washer clicks still come from something loose, trapped, or out of level.
What to conclude: A click tied to rotation points toward the drum or tub area. A click tied to drain points toward the pump path. A click that shows up as spin speed rises points toward balance, suspension, or the drive area.
This is the safest and most common fix, and it costs nothing to check.
Next move: If you find and remove the item and the click is gone on the next empty test cycle, you are done. If the washer still clicks empty, the problem is likely not coming from clothing in the load.
What to conclude: A click in one exact spot often means something is contacting the drum once per revolution. If nothing is visible and the sound remains, the object may be below the basket or the issue may be in the support or drive area.
A washer that rocks or runs with a lopsided load can click, tap, and shift in ways that sound worse than they are.
Next move: If the click fades or disappears after leveling and a balanced test load, the washer was likely shifting rather than failing internally. If the click stays with an empty or balanced load, move on to the drain and support checks.
Coins and small hard debris commonly get into the pump area and make a sharp click or chatter during drain.
Next move: If the clicking was strongest during drain and stops after clearing debris, the drain pump path was the problem. If the pump area is clean but the click remains, especially during spin, the washer likely has a support or drive-area issue.
By this point you have ruled out the easy causes and can make a cleaner call on parts versus escalation.
A good result: If replacing the worn support part or belt stops the click and the washer spins smoothly without excess movement, the repair path was correct.
If not: If the click remains after the obvious support issue is corrected, the washer needs a closer internal diagnosis before more parts are ordered.
What to conclude: A washer that still clicks empty after the simple checks usually has either a confirmed support-part problem, a belt-area issue, or a deeper tub or bearing problem that is not a smart guess-and-buy repair.
Repair Riot may earn a commission from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
No. Bearings are not the first thing to suspect with a clicking noise. More often it is a loose item, pump debris, leveling problem, or worn suspension part. Bearing trouble usually sounds rougher than a simple click and often comes with grinding, rumbling, or play in the basket.
That usually points to load shift, an out-of-level washer, worn suspension, or a belt-area noise on belt-driven models. Spin puts the most movement and speed into the machine, so weak support parts show up there first.
Yes. Coins are one of the most common causes. They can tap the drum, lodge near the tub, or get into the drain pump area and make a sharp repeating click or chatter.
Only if the click is light, brief, and clearly tied to something simple you have already corrected, like a zipper or loose coin. If the click is rhythmic with every turn, gets worse in spin, comes with leaking, or turns into banging or grinding, stop using it until you find the cause.
An empty-machine click is a strong clue that the problem is not just clothing hardware. Look for a trapped object, pump debris, a worn belt on belt-driven models, or suspension wear. If the drum feels rough or the rear tub area is noisy, it is time for service rather than more guessing.