Drains while filling
Water enters the tub, then disappears right down the drain, and the cycle never gets where it should.
Start here: Go straight to the drain hose setup and standpipe check.
Washer stuck in drain mode
Samsung Washer Won’t Stop Draining
Direct answer: When a Samsung washer won’t stop draining, the most common causes are a drain hose installed too low and siphoning water back out, a clogged or kinked pressure hose that makes the washer think it is still full, or a washer drain pump that keeps running because the control never sees an empty-tub signal.
Most likely: Start with the drain hose position and the tub water level. If the tub is already empty but the pump keeps running, the water-level sensing side is usually a better suspect than the pump itself.
First separate two lookalikes: is the washer actually removing water the whole time, or is the tub already empty and you only hear the pump humming? That split matters. Reality check: a washer can sound busy even when the real problem is just a bad drain hose setup. Common wrong move: replacing the pump before checking for siphoning or a blocked pressure hose.
Don’t start with: Don’t start by ordering a control board. On this symptom, hose setup and pressure-sensing problems are more common and a lot cheaper to fix.
Tub keeps refilling and draining awayCheck the drain hose height and how far it is shoved into the standpipe.
Tub is empty but pump keeps runningCheck the pressure hose and air dome area before buying a pump.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-16
What this usually looks like
Pump runs with an empty tub
You hear the drain pump or a steady hum, but there is little or no water left in the washer.
Start here: Check the pressure hose, air trap area, and then the pump for debris or a stuck impeller.
Stops on rinse or spin and keeps draining
The washer gets partway through the cycle, then seems stuck pumping out and never moves on.
Start here: Look for a partial drain restriction or a false full-tub signal.
Shows drain-related behavior after a move or install
The problem started right after the washer was installed, pulled out, or the drain hose was repositioned.
Start here: Treat hose routing and standpipe depth as the first suspect.
Most likely causes
1. Drain hose siphoning because it is too low or pushed too far into the standpipe
This is the classic cause when the washer drains as it fills or seems to keep draining forever. The machine may be working normally, but the plumbing setup is pulling water out on its own.
Quick check: Make sure the drain hose rises high behind the washer before dropping into the standpipe, and that the hose is not sealed tightly into the pipe.
2. Washer pressure hose or air dome blockage
If the control never gets a clean empty-tub reading, it can keep the drain pump running even after the water is gone. Soap residue and lint can cause this.
Quick check: Unplug the washer, remove the top if accessible, and inspect the small pressure hose for kinks, pinches, splits, or sludge at the tub connection.
3. Partial blockage in the washer drain pump or internal drain path
A sock, coin, hair tie, or lint wad can slow draining enough that the washer times out or keeps trying to empty longer than normal.
Quick check: Listen for a strained pump sound, slow flow at the standpipe, or rattling from the pump area.
4. Failed washer water-level sensor or control issue
If the hose and drain path check out and the washer still acts like the tub is full when it is empty, the sensing circuit may be wrong. This is less common than setup or blockage problems.
Quick check: Only consider this after the hose routing, pressure hose, and pump path have been checked and the symptom stays the same.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Watch one short fill-and-drain test
You need to know whether the washer is truly pumping water out or whether the tub is already empty and the machine only thinks it is still full.
- Start a quick cycle or rinse/fill setting and let the washer add some water.
- Listen at the standpipe or laundry sink drain for actual water flow, not just pump noise.
- Open the door or lid only when the machine allows it safely, or pause the cycle and check whether water is still sitting in the tub.
- Note which pattern you have: water drains away as it fills, or the tub is empty but the pump keeps running.
Next move: If you clearly identify the pattern, the next checks get much faster and you avoid guessing at parts. If you cannot safely observe the cycle or the washer is acting erratically, unplug it and move to the visual hose checks before running it again.
What to conclude: A fill-and-drain pattern points hard toward siphoning. An empty tub with nonstop pumping points more toward a false water-level reading or a pump/control problem.
Stop if:
- Water is backing up out of the standpipe or onto the floor.
- You smell burning plastic or the pump sound gets harsh and grinding.
- The washer trips a breaker or shows signs of electrical damage.
Step 2: Check the washer drain hose setup first
On this symptom, bad drain hose routing is the cheapest and most common fix, especially after installation, cleaning behind the washer, or moving the machine.
- Pull the washer out enough to see the full drain hose path.
- Make sure the washer drain hose rises up behind the machine before entering the home drain.
- Check that the hose is not shoved excessively deep into the standpipe.
- Make sure the hose connection at the standpipe is not taped or sealed airtight.
- Straighten any kinks or crushed spots in the washer drain hose.
Next move: If the washer stops draining as it fills and now advances normally, the problem was siphoning from hose setup. If the hose routing looks right and the symptom is unchanged, move on to the water-level sensing checks.
What to conclude: A washer that drains while filling usually does not need a new pump. It usually needs the drain hose corrected so the tub can hold water normally.
Step 3: Inspect the pressure hose and tub air trap area
If the tub is empty but the washer keeps pumping, the machine may still be getting a full-tub signal from a blocked, pinched, or damaged pressure hose.
- Unplug the washer.
- Access the top or upper cabinet area as needed to find the small washer pressure hose running from the tub area to the water-level sensor.
- Check for kinks, pinches from the cabinet, loose connections, cracks, or soap sludge inside the hose.
- Inspect the lower hose connection and air dome area on the tub for residue buildup.
- Clear only soft residue you can reach safely; reinstall the hose firmly without stretching or cracking it.
Next move: If the washer now fills, drains, and advances normally, the false water-level signal was the problem. If the hose is clear and intact but the washer still keeps draining with an empty tub, inspect the pump path next.
Step 4: Check the washer drain pump for debris or a stuck impeller
A partial blockage can make the washer drain poorly or keep trying to drain longer than it should. This is more likely when you hear a strained pump, rattling, or weak discharge.
- Unplug the washer and be ready for water spillage.
- If your model has a service access for draining or pump cleaning, empty the water first.
- Inspect the washer drain pump inlet area and reachable hoses for coins, lint clumps, small clothing items, or hair ties.
- Spin the pump impeller gently if accessible; it should not be jammed solid by debris.
- Reassemble and run a short drain or rinse test.
Next move: If water now exits strongly and the washer moves past drain, the blockage was the issue. If the pump path is clear and the washer still runs the pump with an empty tub, the remaining likely causes are a failed water-level sensor or a control problem.
Step 5: Replace the failed part only after the simple checks are ruled out
By this point you have separated setup trouble from a real washer fault. That keeps you from buying the wrong part.
- If the washer only improved after correcting hose routing, keep the existing parts and secure the drain hose properly.
- If the pressure hose is damaged, split, or will not stay connected, replace the washer pressure hose.
- If the drain pump is clear but noisy, seized, leaking, or not moving water properly, replace the washer drain pump.
- If the hose routing, pressure hose, and pump path are all good but the washer still behaves like the tub is full when empty, plan on a washer water-level sensor diagnosis and likely replacement by fitment.
- If the symptom still remains after those checks and repairs, stop before ordering a control board and get model-specific testing done.
A good result: Once the right fault is corrected, the washer should fill, wash, drain, and move into spin without getting stuck in drain mode.
If not: If the washer still will not leave drain mode after the supported checks, the next step is model-specific electrical diagnosis rather than more guesswork.
What to conclude: Most nonstop-drain complaints come down to siphoning, a false water-level signal, or a real pump problem. Control failures happen, but they are not the first bet.
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FAQ
Why does my Samsung washer keep draining even when there is no water left?
Most often the washer still thinks the tub is full. A kinked, clogged, or damaged washer pressure hose can hold a false water-level signal and keep the drain pump running after the tub is already empty.
Can a bad drain hose setup really make the washer seem broken?
Yes. If the washer drain hose is too low or pushed too far into the standpipe, the tub can siphon out as it fills. The washer may look like it is stuck draining when the real problem is hose routing.
Should I replace the washer drain pump first?
Not on this symptom. Check for siphoning and inspect the pressure hose first. Replace the washer drain pump only if it is blocked, noisy, leaking, seized, or clearly not moving water the way it should.
Is it safe to keep using the washer if it won’t stop draining?
Not until you know whether water is being siphoned out or the pump is running nonstop. Continued use can overwork the pump, waste water, and cause drain overflow if the standpipe is marginal.
What if the hose routing and pump look fine but it still keeps draining?
Then the stronger suspects are the washer water-level sensor or the control side that reads it. At that point, model-specific diagnosis matters, and it is smart to stop before guessing at expensive electronics.