Washer not draining

Samsung Washer 5C 5E Code

Direct answer: A Samsung washer 5C or 5E code almost always means the machine cannot drain water out in the time it expects. The usual causes are a clogged washer pump filter, a pinched washer drain hose, or a washer drain pump that runs weak or just hums.

Most likely: Start with the simple drain path: standing water in the tub, a slow or no-flow emergency drain, lint or coins in the washer pump filter, and a drain hose that is kinked or shoved too far into the standpipe.

If the tub is still full, treat this like a drain blockage until proven otherwise. Reality check: a single coin, baby sock, or wad of lint can stop a washer cold. Common wrong move: forcing another cycle over and over with water still in the tub, which usually just leaves you with more water to deal with.

Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering an electronic control part. Most 5C and 5E calls end up being a blockage or a worn drain pump.

Tub still full of water?Drain it safely first, then check the filter and hose before touching parts.
Pump hums but water barely moves?That points more toward a clog at the pump or a weak washer drain pump.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-16

What this code usually looks like

Water sitting in the tub

The cycle stops, the door may stay locked, and you can see water still pooled in the drum.

Start here: Use the emergency drain if your model has one, then inspect the washer pump filter for lint, coins, or fabric.

Pump runs but drains slowly

You hear the pump, but water only trickles out or takes a long time to leave.

Start here: Check the washer drain hose for a kink, a low spot packed with sludge, or a hose end pushed too deep into the standpipe.

Pump only hums or buzzes

The washer tries to drain, makes a steady hum, but little or no water comes out.

Start here: Look for a jammed pump impeller or debris caught in the pump housing before assuming the pump motor is bad.

Code comes back after cleaning the filter

The washer drains a little better after cleaning, then throws 5C or 5E again on the next load.

Start here: That usually means there is still debris farther down the drain path or the washer drain pump is getting weak under load.

Most likely causes

1. Clogged washer pump filter

This is the most common cause when the tub holds water and the code appears near the drain or spin part of the cycle.

Quick check: Open the lower access area, drain the water, and inspect the washer pump filter for lint, coins, hair pins, or small clothing items.

2. Kinked or restricted washer drain hose

A hose pinched behind the machine or packed with residue will slow the flow enough to trigger the code.

Quick check: Pull the washer forward enough to see the full hose path and make sure it is not flattened, twisted, or jammed too deep into the house drain.

3. Debris jammed in the washer drain pump

If the pump hums, clicks, or starts and stops, the impeller may be blocked by a coin, elastic, or broken debris.

Quick check: After draining the tub and unplugging the washer, inspect the pump filter cavity and pump inlet area for anything the filter did not catch.

4. Weak or failed washer drain pump

When the drain path is clear but the washer still drains very slowly or only hums, the pump motor is a strong suspect.

Quick check: Listen during drain: a healthy pump moves water with a steady rush. A weak pump often hums, rattles lightly, or moves only a small stream.

Step-by-step fix

Step 1: Get the water out without making a bigger mess

You need the tub empty before you can tell whether you have a simple blockage or a real pump problem.

  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Keep towels and a shallow pan ready at the lower front access area.
  3. If your washer has a small emergency drain hose, pull it out slowly, remove the cap, and drain the tub into a pan a little at a time.
  4. If there is no emergency drain hose, be ready for water when opening the pump filter area.
  5. Once the water is mostly out, close the drain hose cap securely before moving on.

Next move: With the tub drained, you can inspect the filter and pump area without flooding the floor. If the emergency drain is also blocked or almost nothing comes out even with visible water in the tub, the blockage may be heavy at the filter or pump inlet.

What to conclude: A blocked emergency drain or no-flow condition usually still points to debris in the washer drain path, not a control issue.

Stop if:
  • Water is leaking under the washer from somewhere other than the drain access area.
  • The washer must be tipped or laid down to continue.
  • You smell burning or see damaged wiring near the lower front area.

Step 2: Clean the washer pump filter completely

This is the highest-odds fix and the least expensive one. A partial cleaning is not enough if debris is packed behind the cap.

  1. Slowly unscrew the washer pump filter cap and let any remaining water drain out.
  2. Remove lint, coins, buttons, hair, and sludge from the filter screen and the filter cavity.
  3. Reach in carefully with your fingers and check for debris just beyond the filter opening.
  4. Wipe the sealing surface clean and reinstall the filter cap snugly by hand.
  5. Run a drain or spin cycle and listen for a stronger, steadier water flow.

Repair guide: How to Replace a Washer Drain Pump

What to conclude: A filter packed with debris confirms the drain path was restricted. If cleaning helps only briefly, there is often more debris farther along.

Step 3: Check the washer drain hose and house drain opening

A clear pump cannot do its job if the hose is pinched or the standpipe connection is choking the flow.

  1. Pull the washer forward enough to inspect the full washer drain hose from the back of the machine to the house drain.
  2. Straighten any kink or flattened section.
  3. Make sure the hose end is not taped airtight into the standpipe and is not shoved excessively deep into the drain opening.
  4. If you can remove the hose safely, inspect for lint sludge or a small garment blocking the hose.
  5. Reconnect the hose securely and run a drain cycle while watching for a strong discharge.

Repair guide: How to Replace a Washer Drain Hose

Step 4: Listen to the pump and check for a jammed impeller

Sound and flow together tell you a lot. A humming pump with little flow often has a jam or a worn motor.

  1. Start a drain or spin cycle with the washer reassembled enough to operate safely.
  2. Listen near the lower front or lower rear where the washer drain pump sits.
  3. Note whether you hear a strong rushing drain sound, a weak hum, a repeated click, or silence.
  4. If accessible from the filter opening, check whether the pump impeller area is blocked by string, elastic, or hard debris.
  5. If the pump starts but water output is weak even with a clear hose, treat the washer drain pump as the leading failure.

Next move: If clearing a jam restores a strong drain stream, finish with a full rinse and spin test. If the pump only hums, stalls, or drains weakly with a clear path, replace the washer drain pump.

Step 5: Replace the failed part or call for service with a clear diagnosis

Once the filter and hose are clear, repeating the same cleaning steps wastes time. The next move should match what you found.

  1. Replace the washer drain pump if it hums, stalls, or moves only a weak stream after the filter and hose are confirmed clear.
  2. Replace the washer drain hose if it is split, permanently kinked, or blocked internally and cannot be cleaned out reliably.
  3. After the repair, run a rinse and spin cycle with no clothes, then a small test load.
  4. If the washer still throws 5C or 5E after a confirmed clear drain path and a good pump, stop and schedule service for deeper electrical diagnosis.

If that issue is confirmed: Amana washer ld code

A good result: A successful repair will empty the tub promptly, unlock normally, and finish spin without the code returning.

If not: If a new pump does not change the symptom, the problem is beyond the normal homeowner drain-path repair and needs hands-on diagnosis.

What to conclude: You have either fixed the drain restriction or narrowed the fault enough to avoid random parts swapping.

Replacement Parts

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FAQ

What does 5C or 5E mean on a Samsung washer?

It means the washer is not draining water out fast enough. In plain terms, the machine still sees water in the tub when it expected the tub to be nearly empty.

Is 5C the same as 5E?

For homeowner troubleshooting, yes. Both are treated as a drain problem first: filter, hose, pump blockage, then pump failure if the drain path is clear.

Can I just run the washer again to clear the code?

You can try a drain or spin cycle after cleaning the filter, but repeating full wash cycles with water still in the tub usually does not fix the cause. It just leaves more water to remove.

Why does the washer drain a little, then still show the code?

That usually means the drain path is only partly open or the washer drain pump is weak. Partial flow is enough to make noise, but not enough to empty the tub in time.

Do I need a new pump if I hear humming?

Not always. A humming pump can be jammed by debris. If the filter and hose are clear and the pump still hums without moving water well, then the washer drain pump is the likely fix.

Could the problem be my house drain instead of the washer?

Yes. If the standpipe backs up or overflows when the washer tries to drain, the washer may be fine and the home drain line may be restricted.

Related guides

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Amana washer ld codeAmana washer ldl codeAmana washer ldu code
Related helper guides
How to Replace a Washer Drain PumpHow to Replace a Washer Drain Hose