All burners reject the pan
Every cooking zone shows a pan message or will not heat, even though the controls light up.
Start here: Start with cookware type, pan size, control lock, and a full power reset.
Direct answer: A pan detection error on an induction range usually means the cooktop is not seeing the pan correctly, not that the whole range is dead. Most of the time the cause is mismatched cookware, a pan that is too small or warped, or debris between the pan and the glass. If the same burner rejects a known-good pan while other burners work, that points more toward a bad cooktop induction element or cooktop burner sensor in that zone.
Most likely: Start with the pan itself, pan size, and a clean flat cooking zone. If the problem stays on one burner with multiple known-good induction pans, suspect that burner's cooktop induction element or sensor path.
Induction tops are picky in a very specific way: they need the right metal, the right pan footprint, and solid contact over the marked zone. Reality check: a lot of these calls end with a different pan, not a failed part. Common wrong move: testing with a lightweight pan that says it works on induction but only has a tiny magnetic base.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a control board or taking the cooktop apart just because the display shows a pan message.
Every cooking zone shows a pan message or will not heat, even though the controls light up.
Start here: Start with cookware type, pan size, control lock, and a full power reset.
Other zones heat normally, but one marked zone keeps flashing a pan error or shuts off right away.
Start here: Move a known-good induction pan from a working zone to the bad zone. If the problem stays with that burner, focus on that burner hardware.
Heat starts for a few seconds or minutes, then the pan message returns, especially at higher settings or after the pan is moved.
Start here: Check for a warped pan bottom, sliding off the center mark, or debris on the glass before suspecting a weak burner component.
Larger pots work, but a small saucepan or moka pot will not trigger the burner.
Start here: Check the minimum pan size for that zone and use a pan with a magnetic base that covers more of the marked ring.
Induction only works when the pan base couples well with the burner. Some pans have stainless sides but a small or weak magnetic disk on the bottom, so the cooktop acts like no pan is there.
Quick check: Use a magnet on the center and outer area of the pan bottom. Then try a heavier known-good induction pan that works on another zone.
A pan that does not sit flat or does not cover enough of the active zone can be detected intermittently or not at all.
Quick check: Set the pan dead center on the marked zone and look for rocking or daylight under the base when the pan is cool.
Grease film, burned-on residue, or even a wet ring under the pan can interfere with solid contact and make the burner drop in and out.
Quick check: Let the surface cool, then clean and dry the glass under that zone and the pan bottom with a soft cloth and mild soap solution.
If one burner rejects multiple known-good pans while the others work normally, the problem is usually inside that burner circuit rather than the cookware.
Quick check: Swap the same pan between a working zone and the problem zone. If the pan works everywhere except one spot, the burner hardware is the likely fault.
Most pan detection complaints are cookware issues, and this is the fastest safe check.
Next move: If the burner starts heating with a known-good pan, your original pan is the problem. Keep using cookware with a flat magnetic base sized for that zone. If a known-good pan still gives the same error, move on to the cooktop surface and zone-specific checks.
What to conclude: You have separated basic cookware mismatch from a likely cooktop issue.
Induction zones can lose pan detection when there is grease film, burned residue, or moisture between the pan and the glass.
Next move: If the burner now recognizes the pan and stays on, the issue was poor contact from residue or moisture. If the same zone still will not detect a proper pan, compare that burner directly to a working one.
What to conclude: A clean dry surface rules out the easy contact problem and makes the next comparison more reliable.
This is the clean split between a cookware problem and a failed burner zone.
Next move: If the problem follows one pan, replace that cookware or reserve it for a burner where it works reliably. If multiple good pans fail only on one burner, the burner itself is the likely problem.
A simple power reset can clear a stuck control state, especially if all zones started acting up at once.
Next move: If pan detection returns on all burners after the reset, monitor it. An isolated glitch does not automatically mean a failed part. If one burner still rejects known-good pans after the reset, treat that burner as a hardware failure. If all burners still fail, professional diagnosis is the safer next move.
Once you have proven the problem stays with one burner and not the pan, replacing the burner-specific cooktop part is the sensible repair path.
A good result: If the repaired zone now recognizes the same pan consistently, the diagnosis was right and the failed burner part was the cause.
If not: If the new burner part does not change the symptom, the fault is likely in the cooktop control or wiring and is no longer a good guess-and-swap DIY job.
What to conclude: This keeps you from throwing expensive parts at a pan problem and limits replacement to the burner that actually failed.
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Usually the pan is the issue. The base may not be magnetic enough, may be too small for that burner, or may be warped so it is not making solid contact over the zone.
Yes. Grease film, burned residue, or moisture under the pan can make detection flaky, especially if the pan already has a marginal base. Clean and dry both surfaces before you go further.
It can be, but the quick test is simple: use the same known-good pan on both burners. If it works on one and not the other, the bad burner is the stronger suspect.
Sometimes, especially if all burners started acting odd at once or the controls glitched after a power event. A reset will not fix a failed induction element in one burner, though.
After you rule out cookware, size, centering, and a dirty surface, the usual repair path is that burner's cooktop induction element or its burner sensing component. That is when model-specific parts matter.