Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the hot-side packing and seals are the likely problem
- Check where the leak shows up. This repair fits best when water seeps around the hot handle stem, under the handle, or the faucet drips mainly from the hot side after shutoff.
- Turn the hot handle on and off a few times. A worn packing or stem seal often leaks more while the handle is being turned or right after it is closed.
- Look for obvious damage first, like a cracked handle hub, split trim, badly corroded stem area, or water leaking from somewhere deeper in the faucet body.
- Clear the sink area and put a rag in the drain so small screws cannot fall in.
If it works: The leak pattern points to the hot handle stem packing or seal parts, and the faucet body looks intact enough to service.
If it doesn’t: If the leak is coming from the spout base, supply lines, or a crack in the faucet body, this is probably not the right repair path.
Stop if:- The faucet body is cracked or heavily corroded around the stem opening.
- Water is leaking from inside the wall, under the sink from another connection, or from a damaged supply tube rather than the handle area.
Step 2: Shut off the water and remove the hot handle
- Close the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink. If local shutoffs do not work, use the main water shutoff before taking the faucet apart.
- Open the faucet to relieve pressure and confirm the water flow stops.
- Pry off the hot handle index cap if there is one, then remove the handle screw with the correct screwdriver.
- Lift the handle straight off. If it sticks, wiggle it gently instead of forcing it hard enough to crack the handle.
If it works: The water is off, pressure is relieved, and the hot handle is removed without damaging the trim.
If it doesn’t: If the handle is seized in place, apply gentle back-and-forth pressure and give yourself time rather than prying aggressively against finished surfaces.
Stop if:- The shutoff valves will not close fully and water continues flowing at the faucet.
- The handle or stem is so seized that removal would likely break the faucet body or supply piping.
Step 3: Remove the packing nut and old seal parts
- Use a wrench to loosen the packing nut or bonnet on the hot side. Hold nearby trim carefully if needed so you do not twist the faucet body.
- Pull out the old packing, washer, O-ring, or stem seal pieces from the hot side assembly. Lay the parts out in the order they came off.
- Inspect the stem for grooves, heavy mineral buildup, or rough spots where the new packing has to seal.
- Wipe the stem, threads, and sealing surfaces clean with a rag so the new parts can seat properly.
If it works: The old hot-side packing and seal parts are out, and the stem area is clean enough for the new kit.
If it doesn’t: If the old parts break apart during removal, keep every piece you can so you can still match the replacement parts by size and profile.
Stop if:- The stem threads are stripped, the stem is deeply scored, or the sealing surfaces are damaged enough that new packing will not seal reliably.
- You find hidden cracking in the faucet body around the packing nut or stem opening.
Step 4: Match and install the new packing and seals
- Compare each new part from the kit to the old one before installing anything. Match diameter, thickness, and shape as closely as possible.
- Apply a light film of plumber's grease to the stem and rubber sealing parts. Do not pack the area with excess grease.
- Install the new packing and seal pieces in the same order and orientation as the originals.
- Thread the packing nut or bonnet back on by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then snug it with a wrench. Tighten just enough to compress the packing without making the handle bind.
If it works: The new hot-side packing and seals are installed, and the packing nut is snug and straight.
If it doesn’t: If the new parts do not match the old ones closely, pause and get a better-fitting kit before reassembling fully.
Stop if:- The packing nut will not thread on smoothly by hand, which can mean cross-threading or the wrong parts.
- The replacement parts are clearly the wrong size or shape for the faucet stem.
Step 5: Reassemble the handle and restore water
- Reinstall the hot handle, handle screw, and index cap or trim pieces.
- Turn the shutoff valves back on slowly while watching the hot handle area for immediate leakage.
- Open and close the hot side several times to seat the new packing and check handle feel.
- If there is a slight seep at the stem, tighten the packing nut a little at a time until the seep stops. Avoid overtightening.
If it works: The faucet is back together, water is restored, and the hot handle turns normally without obvious leaking.
If it doesn’t: If the handle is very stiff after reassembly, back the packing nut off slightly and test again.
Stop if:- A steady leak continues around the stem even after a small packing nut adjustment.
- The handle becomes hard to turn or the stem will not shut off properly after reassembly.
Step 6: Verify the repair holds in normal use
- Run hot water for a minute, then shut the faucet off and watch the spout and hot handle area closely.
- Dry the faucet completely with a rag, then check again after several minutes for fresh moisture around the handle stem or trim.
- Use the faucet normally over the next day and recheck for a slow drip or a small ring of water around the hot handle base.
- Make one final minor packing nut adjustment only if needed to stop a faint seep.
If it works: The hot side shuts off cleanly, the handle area stays dry, and the repair holds during real use.
If it doesn’t: If the faucet still drips from the spout or leaks at the stem after careful adjustment, the stem assembly or valve seat may also be worn and need further repair.
Stop if:- Leakage returns quickly even with the correct new packing and seal parts installed.
- You see water tracking from another faucet component, which points to a different failed part or a broader faucet rebuild.
Replacement Parts
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FAQ
What does faucet handle packing do?
Packing seals around the faucet stem where it passes through the faucet body. When it wears out, water can seep around the handle area, especially while you turn the faucet on or off.
Will replacing the packing and seal kit stop a drip from the spout?
It can if the hot-side sealing parts are the reason the faucet is not shutting off fully. If the spout still drips after this repair, the stem, seat, or another internal valve part may also be worn.
Do I need to replace the cold side too?
Not always. If only the hot side is leaking or dripping, start there. If the cold side feels loose, leaks, or is the same age and condition, you may choose to service it as well.
How tight should the packing nut be?
Snug, not cranked down. It should be tight enough to stop seepage around the stem but loose enough that the handle still turns normally. Small adjustments work better than one big turn.
Can I reuse the old packing if I cannot find an exact kit right away?
It is better to wait for the correct replacement. Old packing and seals usually do not reseal well once disturbed, and reusing them often leads to another leak soon after reassembly.