Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the stem washer is the likely problem
- Turn the hose bib fully off and watch the spout for a minute.
- If water keeps dripping from the spout after shutoff, the sealing surface at the end of the stem is a likely cause.
- Check that the leak is not coming from around the handle or packing nut. A leak there points more toward packing than stem washers.
- Remove any hose, splitter, or spray nozzle from the faucet so back pressure does not confuse the diagnosis.
If it works: You have a steady drip from the spout after shutoff and the repair path makes sense.
If it doesn’t: If the leak is around the handle instead of the spout, address the packing area first. If the faucet only leaks with a hose attached, check the hose washer or attachment before opening the bib.
Stop if:- The faucet body is cracked, badly corroded, or loose in the wall.
- Water is leaking inside the house or wall cavity when the faucet is used.
- The shutoff for this line does not work and the faucet cannot be safely opened.
Step 2: Shut off water and take the faucet apart
- Shut off the water supply feeding the hose bib if you have a local or branch shutoff.
- Open the hose bib to relieve pressure and drain the remaining water.
- Remove the handle screw, then pull off the handle.
- Use the wrench to loosen the packing nut and back the stem assembly out of the faucet body.
- Lay the parts out in order so reassembly is easier.
If it works: The stem assembly is out and you can see the washer at the end of the stem.
If it doesn’t: If the handle is stuck, wiggle it gently and apply penetrating oil if needed. If the stem is stubborn, support the faucet body and work slowly to avoid twisting the pipe.
Stop if:- The faucet body starts moving in the wall or on the siding while you loosen parts.
- Threads are stripped or the stem will not come out without excessive force.
Step 3: Remove the old washer and match the replacement
- Look at the end of the stem for the old washer and its retaining screw.
- Remove the screw and lift off the old washer. Use needle-nose pliers if it is hardened or stuck.
- Compare the old washer to the new one for diameter, thickness, and hole size.
- If the screw is rusty or damaged, replace it with a matching screw if you have one that fits properly.
- Wipe mineral buildup off the stem end so the new washer sits flat.
If it works: The old washer is off and you have a matching replacement ready to install.
If it doesn’t: If you cannot match the washer confidently, take the old washer and stem to a hardware store and match by size and shape before reassembling.
Stop if:- The stem end is badly worn, bent, or damaged so the washer cannot sit flat.
- The valve seat inside the faucet looks deeply gouged or broken.
Step 4: Install the new washer and reassemble the stem
- Set the new washer in place exactly as the old one sat.
- Reinstall the retaining screw and tighten it snugly without over-tightening the small screw.
- Apply a light smear of plumber's grease to the stem threads if they are dry.
- Thread the stem assembly back into the faucet body by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten the packing nut and reinstall the handle and handle screw.
If it works: The faucet is back together and the handle turns smoothly from open to closed.
If it doesn’t: If the stem binds or will not thread in smoothly, back it out and start again by hand. Cross-threading will damage the faucet body.
Stop if:- The stem will not start straight by hand.
- A part cracks or the packing nut will not tighten because the threads are damaged.
Step 5: Turn the water back on and check for leaks
- Close the hose bib fully.
- Turn the water supply back on slowly.
- Watch the packing nut, stem area, and spout for leaks with the faucet off.
- Open the faucet fully for a few seconds, then shut it off again and watch the spout.
- If needed, snug the packing nut slightly if you see seepage around the stem.
If it works: The faucet shuts off cleanly and the spout stops dripping after normal runoff ends.
If it doesn’t: If the spout still drips after replacing the washer, the valve seat or full stem assembly may be worn and need further repair or replacement.
Stop if:- Water sprays from the stem area or body when pressure returns.
- The faucet leaks from a crack or from inside the wall.
Step 6: Verify the repair holds in real use
- Run water through the hose bib for a minute at normal flow.
- Shut it off and wait long enough to separate normal drain-down from an actual continuing drip.
- Check again after 10 to 15 minutes to make sure the spout is still dry.
- Reattach your hose only after the faucet itself has proven dry on its own.
If it works: The hose bib stays dry after use, which confirms the new stem washers solved the problem.
If it doesn’t: If dripping returns after a short time, inspect the valve seat and stem for wear or replace the full hose bib if the faucet is old and damaged.
Stop if:- The faucet body loosens, leaks through a crack, or shows hidden damage during use.
Replacement Parts
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FAQ
How do I know the stem washer is bad?
A worn stem washer usually causes dripping from the spout after the faucet is fully shut off. If water leaks around the handle instead, the packing area is a more likely cause.
Do I need to shut off the water to replace stem washers?
Yes. Once you remove the stem assembly, the faucet is open to the supply line. Shut off the water feeding that hose bib first.
Can I reuse the old screw that holds the washer?
Usually yes, if it is not rusted, stripped, or damaged. If the screw is in poor shape, replace it with a matching one that fits the stem correctly.
What if the faucet still drips after I replace the washer?
The valve seat or the stem itself may be worn. At that point, inspect for damage and consider replacing the stem assembly or the entire hose bib if the faucet is old.
Should I replace the whole hose bib instead of just the washer?
If the body is cracked, badly corroded, loose, or the internal sealing surfaces are damaged, replacing the whole hose bib is often the better long-term fix.