Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the supply line is the problem
- Dry the shutoff valve, supply line, and fixture connection with a towel.
- Open the shutoff valve and run the fixture or flush the toilet so the line is under normal pressure.
- Watch where fresh water appears first.
- If the drip forms at the crimped hose, along the tubing, or right at one of the supply line nuts, replacing the line is the right repair.
- If water is coming from the valve stem, the valve body, or the fixture itself, the supply line may not be the root cause.
If it works: You have traced the leak or visible damage to the supply line or one of its end connections.
If it doesn’t: If the valve body or fixture is leaking instead, stop planning around the line and repair that part first.
Stop if:- The shutoff valve body turns in the wall or floor when touched.
- The valve is badly corroded, cracked, or leaking from the stem or body.
- You see water damage inside the wall, floor, or cabinet that suggests a larger leak.
Step 2: Shut off the valve and relieve pressure
- Turn the fixture shutoff valve clockwise until it stops.
- Open the faucet or flush the toilet to relieve pressure and drain most of the water from the line.
- Place a bucket or bowl under the shutoff valve connection.
- Lay down a towel to catch the small amount of water left in the line.
If it works: Water flow from the fixture slows to a stop and the line is no longer under pressure.
If it doesn’t: If the valve does not shut the water off, use the home's main water shutoff before removing the line.
Stop if:- The shutoff valve will not close and you cannot safely shut water off upstream.
- The valve handle breaks or the valve starts leaking heavily when you turn it.
Step 3: Remove the old supply line
- Use one wrench to loosen the supply line nut at the shutoff valve.
- If the valve wants to twist, hold the valve body steady with pliers while turning only the line nut.
- Disconnect the other end of the line from the faucet shank, fill valve, or fixture inlet.
- Remove the old line and keep it nearby to compare length, end size, and connection style.
- Wipe both connection points clean so the new line can seat properly.
If it works: The old line is out and both connection points are clean and accessible.
If it doesn’t: If a nut is stuck, apply steady pressure and support the valve body so you do not damage the piping behind it.
Stop if:- The shutoff valve or attached pipe starts twisting in the wall, floor, or cabinet.
- Threads on the valve outlet or fixture inlet are stripped, split, or badly corroded.
Step 4: Match and position the new line
- Compare the new line to the old one for overall length and both end connections.
- Make sure the new line reaches naturally without stretching tight or bending sharply.
- Thread the fixture end on by hand first, then thread the shutoff valve end on by hand.
- If either end does not start easily by hand, back it off and realign it to avoid cross-threading.
- Route the line in a gentle curve so it will not rub on sharp edges or kink during use.
If it works: The new line matches the old one and both ends are started by hand without forcing them.
If it doesn’t: If the new line is too short, too long to route cleanly, or the fittings do not match, exchange it for the correct one before tightening anything.
Stop if:- The fittings do not match the valve or fixture connection type.
- You can only get the nut started by forcing it, which points to cross-threading or the wrong size.
Step 5: Tighten the connections and restore water
- Snug the fixture end first, then snug the shutoff valve end.
- Tighten each connection a little more with a wrench until it is secure, but do not overtighten.
- Slowly open the shutoff valve while watching both ends of the new line.
- Wipe the fittings dry and look again for any fresh moisture.
- If you see a small drip at a nut, close the valve and tighten that connection slightly more.
If it works: The valve is back on and both connections stay dry at rest.
If it doesn’t: If a connection still drips after a careful slight retightening, shut the water back off and recheck the fit, alignment, and thread engagement.
Stop if:- A fitting continues leaking even though the line is correctly matched and aligned.
- The valve or fixture connection cracks, spins, or deforms while tightening.
Step 6: Verify the repair under real use
- Run the faucet for a minute or flush the toilet several times so the line sees normal pressure changes.
- Check the line and both connection points with a dry finger or tissue.
- Look again after 10 to 15 minutes for any slow seepage.
- Check that the line is not rubbing, kinking, or pulling sideways on the shutoff valve.
- Leave the area dry and recheck later the same day if the leak had been intermittent.
If it works: The supply line stays dry during use and after the fixture has been sitting under pressure.
If it doesn’t: If moisture returns, shut the valve off and inspect whether the leak is from the line connection, the valve itself, or the fixture inlet before replacing more parts.
Stop if:- Water is still appearing from the valve body, wall, floor, or another nearby plumbing connection.
- The cabinet, wall, or flooring shows ongoing swelling, staining, or hidden leak damage.
Replacement Parts
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FAQ
Do I need thread tape on a fixture supply line?
Usually no. Most fixture supply lines seal with a built-in washer or cone seal at the nut, not with thread tape on the threads. Follow the sealing style of the line and connection you are using.
How do I know what replacement line to buy?
Match three things: the length, the shutoff valve connection size and type, and the fixture connection size and type. Bringing the old line with you or comparing it side by side helps avoid ordering the wrong one.
Can I reuse the old supply line if it only leaked once?
It is better to replace it. Once a supply line has started leaking, especially if the hose, crimp, or sealing surfaces are worn, reuse is a gamble compared with installing a fresh line.
What if the shutoff valve leaks after I replace the line?
That points to a valve problem, not a supply line problem. If water is coming from the valve stem or body, the valve may need to be repaired or replaced.
How tight should the supply line nuts be?
Tight enough to seal without forcing them. Start both ends by hand, then snug with a wrench and test. If there is a slight drip, tighten a little more. Avoid cranking down hard, which can damage the fitting or washer.