Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the washer is the likely problem
- Check whether the faucet drips from the spout after the handle is fully off.
- Notice whether the drip slows when you tighten the handle harder than normal. That often points to worn stem washers on a compression-style faucet.
- Look at the faucet handle action. If it uses several turns to open and close, this repair is more likely the right one.
- Clear the sink area, put a towel or stopper over the drain, and gather your tools before taking anything apart.
If it works: The faucet symptoms match a worn stem washer and you are ready to disassemble it safely.
If it doesn’t: If the faucet is a quarter-turn style or the leak is coming from around the handle or under the sink instead of the spout, the problem may be a cartridge, packing, or supply connection rather than stem washers.
Stop if:- Water is leaking from inside the wall, cabinet, or faucet body itself.
- The faucet is badly corroded, cracked, or loose at the sink deck.
Step 2: Shut off water and remove the handle
- Turn off the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink. If there are separate handles, plan to repair one side at a time so parts do not get mixed up.
- Open the faucet to relieve pressure and confirm the water is off.
- Pry off the decorative cap if present, then remove the handle screw with the correct screwdriver.
- Lift the handle off. If it sticks, wiggle it gently instead of forcing it sideways.
If it works: The water is off and the handle is removed without losing any small parts.
If it doesn’t: If the handle is stuck, apply steady upward pressure and work it loose gradually. A little mineral buildup is common.
Stop if:- The shutoff valves will not close fully and water continues flowing.
- The handle or stem is so seized that forcing it may break the faucet body.
Step 3: Remove the stem and old washer
- Loosen the packing nut or bonnet nut with an adjustable wrench.
- Unscrew and pull out the faucet stem assembly, keeping the parts in order as they come off.
- Look at the end of the stem for the old washer held by a small screw.
- Remove the screw and take off the old washer. If it is hardened, split, flattened, or misshapen, it was likely causing the drip.
If it works: The stem is out and the old washer is removed for matching.
If it doesn’t: If the washer screw is stubborn, use a properly fitting screwdriver and clean away mineral buildup so the tip seats fully.
Stop if:- The stem threads are stripped, the stem is bent, or the valve seat area looks deeply damaged.
- A screw head is broken off in the stem and cannot be removed cleanly.
Step 4: Match and install the new washer
- Compare the new washer to the old one for diameter, thickness, and center hole size.
- Install the new washer in the same orientation as the old one and tighten the retaining screw snugly without over-tightening it.
- Wipe mineral debris off the stem and apply a light film of plumber's grease to the stem threads and moving surfaces.
- If you removed parts from both handles, keep hot and cold stems separated so they go back where they came from.
If it works: A matching new washer is installed securely and the stem is cleaned and ready to go back in.
If it doesn’t: If the new washer does not match closely, pause and get the correct size. A near match often still drips.
Stop if:- You cannot find a washer that matches the old one closely enough to seat properly.
Step 5: Reassemble the faucet
- Thread the stem assembly back into the faucet body by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten the packing nut or bonnet nut until snug.
- Reinstall the handle and handle screw, then snap the decorative cap back on if there is one.
- Repeat the same process on the other handle if both sides were dripping or if both washers are equally worn.
If it works: The faucet is back together and ready for water.
If it doesn’t: If the stem does not thread in smoothly by hand, back it out and start again to avoid damaging the threads.
Stop if:- The stem will not seat because the faucet body threads are damaged.
- The faucet body shifts or loosens at the sink while you tighten parts.
Step 6: Turn the water back on and verify the repair holds
- Close the faucet handles fully.
- Turn the shutoff valves back on slowly.
- Run the faucet for a minute, then shut it off and watch the spout for several minutes.
- Check around the handle and packing nut for seepage while the water is on and after shutoff.
- Use the faucet normally later the same day and check again to make sure the drip does not return.
If it works: The faucet shuts off cleanly, the spout stays dry, and there are no leaks around the handle or stem.
If it doesn’t: If the spout still drips, the washer may be the wrong size or the valve seat or stem may also be worn. If water seeps around the handle, the packing nut may need a slight additional tightening.
Stop if:- The faucet still drips steadily after the new washer is installed and matched correctly.
- Water leaks from the faucet body, under the sink, or from a cracked part after reassembly.
Replacement Parts
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FAQ
How do I know if the stem washer is bad?
A worn stem washer usually causes a drip from the spout after the faucet is turned off, especially on a compression-style faucet that takes several turns to close.
Can I replace just one washer?
Yes. If only one side is dripping, you can replace that side only. If both handles are the same age and wear, many homeowners replace both while the tools are already out.
What if the faucet still drips after I replace the washer?
The new washer may not match correctly, or the stem or valve seat may also be worn. Recheck the washer size and inspect the stem for damage.
Do I need to shut off the whole house water?
Usually no. The shutoff valves under the sink are enough if they work properly. If they do not close fully, you may need to shut off water to the house before continuing.
Should I use plumber's grease on the washer?
Use a light amount on stem threads and moving parts, not as a substitute for the washer seal itself. The washer needs to fit and seat correctly on its own.