Dryer repair

How to Replace a Dryer Drum

Direct answer: To replace a dryer drum, unplug the dryer, open the cabinet, remove the belt and old drum, transfer any reusable parts if needed, install the new drum, then reassemble and test for smooth rotation and normal drying.

A dryer drum is worth replacing when it is cracked, badly warped, or damaged enough to wobble, scrape, or tear clothes. This job is manageable for many homeowners, but the cabinet has sharp edges and the drum can be awkward to handle, so work slowly and keep track of how the belt and supports fit before you take them apart.

Before you start: Match the replacement part to your exact dryer before ordering.

Last reviewed: 2026-04-05

Step-by-step fix

Step 1: Make sure the drum is really the failed part

  1. Unplug the dryer and open the door.
  2. Spin the drum by hand and look for obvious wobble, scraping, a cracked seam, bent metal, or damage that could catch clothing.
  3. Check whether the problem could instead be coming from support rollers, glides, an idler pulley, or the belt. Those parts often cause noise even when the drum itself is still usable.
  4. If you can see a split, severe dent, broken drum rim, or a drum that sits out of round, replacement is the right repair.

If it works: You have a clear reason to replace the drum instead of chasing a different noise source.

If it doesn’t: If the drum looks solid and round, inspect the belt, rollers, glides, and idler before ordering a drum.

Stop if:
  • You find burned wiring, a damaged motor, or signs the cabinet frame itself is bent.
  • The drum damage appears to be caused by a larger structural problem that would keep a new drum from running true.

Step 2: Disconnect the dryer and open the cabinet

  1. Pull the dryer far enough forward to work comfortably.
  2. Unplug the power cord. If it is a gas dryer, close the gas shutoff valve before moving the machine further.
  3. Remove the lint screen if it sits in the top panel, then take out any screws that secure the top or front.
  4. Use a putty knife or screwdriver as needed to release clips and lift the top. Remove the front panel or front bulkhead carefully, and disconnect the door switch connector if needed.
  5. Take a few photos before going further so you can match the belt path and panel layout during reassembly.

If it works: The cabinet is open and you can reach the drum, belt, and support parts.

If it doesn’t: If a panel will not come free, look again for hidden screws near the lint housing, door opening, or lower access area.

Stop if:
  • You smell gas after shutting the valve or notice a damaged gas connector.
  • The cabinet will not open without forcing parts that may break because the fastener layout is unclear.

Step 3: Remove the belt and lift out the old drum

  1. Reach under or around the drum to find the idler pulley and release tension from the belt.
  2. Slip the belt off the motor pulley and idler, then use the belt as a handle to help support the drum.
  3. Lift the drum slightly off its supports and pull it out of the cabinet.
  4. Set the old drum down where it will not roll or damage the floor.
  5. Check the rear support area, front glides, and rollers for heavy wear while the drum is out.

If it works: The old drum is out and the inside of the dryer is fully accessible.

If it doesn’t: If the drum will not lift out, make sure the front bulkhead, retaining clips, and belt are fully free.

Stop if:
  • A support shaft, roller mount, or front bulkhead is broken or badly worn.
  • The motor pulley or idler is damaged enough that a new drum would not run correctly.

Step 4: Prepare the new drum and clean the cabinet

  1. Compare the new drum to the old one for overall size, depth, rim shape, and belt track location.
  2. Transfer any reusable parts from the old drum only if your replacement does not include them and they are still in good condition.
  3. Vacuum lint from the base, motor area, vent opening, and around the supports.
  4. Wipe loose debris from the drum supports and contact surfaces so the new drum seats cleanly.
  5. Set the new drum into the cabinet and rest it on the rear support and front glides or rollers.

If it works: The new drum matches the old one and is seated in the dryer cabinet.

If it doesn’t: If the new drum does not match the old one closely, pause and verify the replacement using your dryer's exact model information.

Stop if:
  • The replacement drum is clearly the wrong size or has a different mounting style.
  • You find severe lint buildup around overheated wiring or other damage that needs separate repair first.

Step 5: Route the belt and reassemble the dryer

  1. Place the belt around the new drum in the same wear track or belt groove location as the original.
  2. Route the belt around the motor pulley and idler pulley so the idler applies tension to the belt.
  3. Rotate the drum by hand several turns to make sure the belt stays centered and the drum turns smoothly without scraping.
  4. Reconnect any door switch wiring and reinstall the front bulkhead or front panel.
  5. Lower the top, reinstall all screws, and put the lint screen back in place.

If it works: The dryer is back together and the drum turns smoothly by hand.

If it doesn’t: If the belt walks off track or the drum binds, reopen the cabinet and correct the belt routing or drum seating before powering the dryer.

Stop if:
  • The drum rubs hard against the cabinet or will not rotate freely by hand.
  • A panel will not align because an internal support or bulkhead is out of position.

Step 6: Test the repair with a real drying cycle

  1. Restore power. If it is a gas dryer, reopen the gas valve.
  2. Run the dryer empty for a few minutes and listen for scraping, thumping, or belt squeal.
  3. If it sounds normal, dry a small load of towels and confirm the drum tumbles evenly and the dryer heats and shuts off normally.
  4. Check that clothes are not catching at the drum edge and that the drum stays centered during operation.

If it works: The dryer runs smoothly with a normal load and the new drum is working properly.

If it doesn’t: If noise, wobble, or poor tumbling remains, inspect the support rollers, glides, idler, and belt path because another worn part may still be causing the problem.

Stop if:
  • The dryer makes loud metal-on-metal noise, the drum stops turning, or you notice a gas smell or electrical burning smell during the test.
  • The new drum is striking the cabinet or damaging clothing during the first load.

Replacement Parts

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FAQ

How do I know the drum is bad and not just the rollers or glides?

A bad drum usually shows visible damage such as a crack, bent rim, split seam, or severe out-of-round wobble. Rollers and glides more often cause noise while the drum itself still looks solid.

Can I replace just the drum and keep the old belt?

You can if the belt is still in good shape, but many homeowners replace a worn belt while the dryer is open. If the belt is cracked, glazed, stretched, or frayed, now is the easiest time to change it.

Is replacing a dryer drum hard for a homeowner?

It is a moderate repair. The work is straightforward, but the cabinet can be awkward to open and the belt routing must go back correctly. Taking photos during disassembly helps a lot.

Should I clean lint out while the dryer is apart?

Yes. With the drum removed, you have rare access to lint around the motor, base, and vent outlet. Cleaning it out improves airflow and reduces future trouble.

What if the new drum still wobbles after installation?

If the new drum is the correct part and still wobbles, the problem is usually with the support system or cabinet alignment. Check the rollers, glides, rear support, front bulkhead fit, and belt routing.