Nothing works and the display is dark
No clock, no oven light response, no burner heat, and no sounds from the range.
Start here: Start with house power to the range, especially the breaker and outlet.
Whole-range failure
Range Oven and Burners Not Working
Direct answer: When both the oven and all burners quit at the same time, the problem is usually upstream of any single burner part. Start with power, gas supply, and control lock settings before suspecting internal components.
Most likely: The most likely causes are a tripped breaker or lost outlet power on an electric range, a shut or interrupted gas supply on a gas range, or a range stuck in control lock or demo mode.
First separate electric from gas, then look at what still works. If the clock is dark, the range is usually missing power. If the display is on but nothing heats or lights, check for lock settings, supply issues, or a failed main control path. Reality check: when everything dies at once, it’s rarely four separate parts failing together. Common wrong move: replacing the burner that gets used most just because it failed first.
Don’t start with: Don’t start by replacing a surface element, burner switch, or igniter when the entire range is down. One bad burner part usually does not take out the whole appliance.
Display dark too?Check the breaker, outlet power, and cord connection first.
Display on but no heat anywhere?Look for control lock, gas shutoff, or a failed main control path before buying parts.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-05
What kind of whole-range failure do you have?
Display works but burners and oven do nothing
The control panel lights up, but surface burners will not heat and the oven will not start.
Start here: Check for control lock, demo mode, or a failed main control path.
Gas range clicks or glows but never lights
You hear clicking at the top or see oven ignition activity, but no flame appears anywhere.
Start here: Check that the gas shutoff valve is open and that gas service is actually on.
Problem started after self-clean or a power outage
The range was working before a high-heat cycle or outage, then the oven and burners stopped responding.
Start here: Look for a tripped breaker, control lock, or heat-damaged control failure before replacing burner parts.
Most likely causes
1. Tripped breaker or lost outlet power on an electric range
A full loss of cooktop and oven on an electric range usually points to supply power, not multiple failed heating parts.
Quick check: See whether the display is dark, then check the double breaker and confirm the outlet actually has power.
2. Gas supply shut off or interrupted on a gas range
If both top burners and oven stopped lighting together, the gas supply is a stronger suspect than separate igniters failing at once.
Quick check: Make sure the range gas shutoff valve is parallel with the pipe and confirm other gas appliances are still working if you have them.
3. Control lock, demo mode, or unresponsive electronic control
A lit display with no burner or oven response often means the range is powered but not accepting commands.
Quick check: Look for a lock icon, hold the lock pad for several seconds, and try a basic bake cycle or one surface control again.
4. Main range control failure after heat or surge
If supply power or gas is present and the whole appliance still will not run, the common control path may have failed.
Quick check: This is more likely if the problem started right after self-clean, a storm, or a sharp power interruption.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Identify whether you have an electric or gas range and what still has power
You need to separate a supply problem from an appliance problem before touching parts. The clues are different on electric and gas models.
- Check whether the clock or display is lit.
- Open the oven door and see whether the oven light works if your model has one.
- Try one surface burner and listen or watch for any response: heat, clicking, glow, or indicator lights.
- If you know the range type, note it now: electric ranges need full electrical supply for everything, while gas ranges still need electrical power for controls and ignition.
Next move: If some functions still respond, you are likely dealing with a narrower problem than a fully dead range. If nothing responds at all, move straight to supply checks before assuming an internal failure.
What to conclude: A dark display usually points to lost electrical power. A live display with no heat or flame points more toward lock settings, gas interruption, or a failed control path.
Stop if:
- You smell gas at any point.
- You see melted wiring, scorch marks, or sparking.
- The range is hardwired or you cannot safely access the plug or shutoff area.
Step 2: Check the simplest supply issue first
Whole-range failures are most often caused by lost power or shut gas, and those checks are fast and low-risk.
- For an electric range, go to the panel and fully reset the double breaker by switching it firmly off, then back on.
- If the range plugs into an outlet, make sure the plug is fully seated and the cord is not heat-damaged.
- For a gas range, confirm the gas shutoff valve near the appliance is fully open.
- If you recently had work done, moved the range, or cleaned behind it, look for a bumped cord or partially closed gas valve.
Next move: If the range comes back after restoring supply, watch it through one full burner test and one short oven test. If supply looks normal and the range is still dead or nonresponsive, check settings and controls next.
What to conclude: A restored breaker or reopened gas valve points to an interrupted supply, not a failed burner or igniter part.
Step 3: Rule out control lock or a stuck electronic state
A powered range can look dead when the controls are locked or the electronics are hung after an outage or self-clean cycle.
- Look for a lock icon or a control lock message on the display.
- Press and hold the lock or control lock pad for several seconds if your panel has one.
- If there is no dedicated lock pad, check the control panel labels for a hold function tied to a timer or clear button.
- Unplug the range or switch the breaker off for a few minutes, then restore power and test one burner and a basic bake cycle again.
Next move: If the controls wake back up and heating returns, the issue was likely a lock setting or a temporary control glitch. If the display is on but the range still will not heat or light, move to the appliance-side checks that match your fuel type.
Step 4: Match the next check to your range type
Electric and gas ranges fail differently, and this is where the likely repair path gets clearer.
- For an electric range with a dark or weak display, suspect incomplete power even if one breaker handle looks on. Reset the breaker again firmly and check for signs of a bad outlet or cord connection.
- For an electric range with a normal display but no oven or burner heat anywhere, a main range control failure becomes more likely than separate burner failures.
- For a gas range, try one top burner and listen for clicking. If there is clicking but no flame on any burner, suspect no gas supply first.
- For a gas range oven, watch through the lower oven opening if visible. If the igniter glows but there is no flame and top burners also do not light, stop and treat it as a gas-supply or professional diagnosis issue rather than an igniter-only problem.
Next move: If one of these checks points clearly to supply restoration or a simple reset, verify all functions before calling it fixed. If power and gas are confirmed and the whole range still will not operate, the remaining likely cause is an internal control failure that is not a good guess-and-buy repair.
Step 5: Replace only the part that matches the exact failure pattern or call for service
At this point, only a few parts still fit the symptoms. The goal is to avoid buying burner parts for a whole-range problem that really needs supply repair or professional electrical diagnosis.
- If one electric surface burner alone stays dead after the rest of the range is working again, that is when a range surface element or range burner switch becomes a reasonable repair path.
- If one gas oven igniter is the only thing left failing after top burners work normally, that is when a range oven igniter becomes a supported replacement path.
- If the entire range still has confirmed power or gas but will not run, schedule appliance service for control diagnosis rather than guessing at a range control board.
- Before closing up, test one front burner, one rear burner, and a short bake cycle so you know the fix actually held.
A good result: If the range now heats normally in the oven and on the cooktop, the repair path was correct.
If not: If the whole appliance still fails after supply and reset checks, stop spending money on likely guesses and get a proper diagnosis.
What to conclude: Single-function failures support a part replacement. Whole-range failures after confirmed supply usually need deeper electrical or control diagnosis.
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FAQ
Why did my oven and burners stop working at the same time?
When both quit together, think common supply or common control first. On electric ranges that usually means breaker, outlet, cord, or a main control issue. On gas ranges it is often electrical power to the controls or an interrupted gas supply.
Can a bad surface element make the whole range stop working?
No, not usually. A bad range surface element affects one burner. It does not normally take out the oven and every other burner too.
My range display is on, so does that mean power is fine?
Not always. Some electric ranges can show a display and still have a supply problem affecting heating circuits, especially after a partial breaker trip. Reset the breaker fully before ruling power out.
If my gas oven igniter glows, is the igniter definitely good?
No. A weak igniter can glow and still fail to open the gas valve properly. But if the top burners also do not light, check gas supply first before blaming the igniter.
Should I replace the range control board myself?
Not as a first guess on this symptom. A whole-range failure can look like a control problem when the real issue is supply, lock mode, or damaged wiring. Once power and gas are confirmed and the range is still down, professional diagnosis is the safer move.