Direct answer: A range burner that will not ignite is usually caused by a misseated burner cap, clogged burner ports, moisture around the igniter, or a failed burner part on that one position. Start by separating gas-burner clicking from electric-burner no-heat, because the fix path is different right away.
Most likely: On gas ranges, the most common cause is a burner cap or head that is dirty, wet, or sitting crooked. On electric ranges, a dead surface element or bad burner switch is more likely.
Look at what the burner does when you turn the knob. If you hear clicking and smell a little gas but never get flame, stay on the gas-burner path. If there is no click because you have an electric coil or smooth-top element and the burner stays cold, stay on the electric path. Reality check: a single dead burner usually points to a local burner problem, not the whole range. Common wrong move: scrubbing the igniter hard or poking burner ports with something that enlarges them.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a control board or taking apart gas tubing. Most no-ignite calls are solved at the burner itself.
You hear rapid clicking at that burner, may smell a little gas, but there is no flame or only an occasional weak pop.
Start here: Start with burner cap alignment, clogged ports, and moisture around the burner head and igniter.
Turning the knob does not produce the usual spark sound at that burner, and the burner stays dead.
Start here: First confirm other burners ignite. If they do, suspect that burner's igniter path or switch area rather than the gas supply.
The indicator light may come on, but the coil or radiant burner does not heat.
Start here: Check whether it is a plug-in surface element issue or a control issue at that burner position.
The rest of the cooktop works normally, but one front or rear burner will not light or heat.
Start here: Focus on that burner's own parts and setup before assuming a whole-range problem.
A gas burner needs the cap and head seated correctly for gas to meet the spark in the right spot. Even a slight tilt can cause clicking with no ignition.
Quick check: With the burner cool, lift and reseat the cap so it sits flat and centered on the burner base.
Boilovers and cleaning residue commonly block flame ports or wet the spark area, so gas reaches the burner poorly or the spark shorts to ground.
Quick check: Look for sticky residue, wet spots, or blocked holes around the burner head and let the area dry fully after cleaning.
On electric ranges, one cold burner is often a bad surface element or a loose, burned connection where that element plugs in.
Quick check: If your range uses removable coil elements, move that element to another same-size position and see whether the problem follows the element.
Once setup, cleaning, and simple swaps do not change anything, the local control or ignition part for that burner becomes the likely fault.
Quick check: If a known-good electric element still will not heat in that spot, suspect the range burner switch. If a gas burner stays dead after cleaning and drying while others work, suspect the range burner igniter path.
These look similar from across the kitchen, but the repair path is completely different. Sorting that out first saves time and bad parts orders.
Next move: You now know whether to stay with burner cleaning and ignition checks or move to electric element and switch checks. If you cannot tell what type of burner system you have or multiple burners are failing in different ways, do not guess on parts yet.
What to conclude: One dead burner with the others working usually means a local burner issue. All burners failing points away from a single burner part.
On gas ranges, this is the highest-payoff fix. A crooked cap, blocked port, or damp burner area causes more no-ignite complaints than failed parts do.
Next move: If the burner lights normally now, the problem was alignment, blockage, or moisture and no part is needed. If it still clicks without lighting, move on to compare flame behavior and spark behavior with a working burner.
What to conclude: A burner that improves after reseating or drying was not getting a clean gas-and-spark meeting point.
A side-by-side comparison helps you spot whether the problem is spark, gas flow at that burner, or electric heat output without taking the range apart.
Next move: If the failure follows the electric element, you have confirmed a bad range surface element. If the gas burner shows weak or misplaced sparking only at that burner, the igniter path is the likely issue. If nothing changes and the symptoms are inconsistent, inspect for heat damage, loose fit, or signs of a deeper wiring problem before buying anything.
By now you should have enough evidence to avoid guess-buying. Keep the part choice tied to what you actually saw.
Next move: You have a supported part decision: burner cap issue resolved, range surface element confirmed, range burner switch likely, or range burner igniter likely. If the evidence is mixed or access to the suspect part involves gas tubing or live wiring you are not comfortable with, stop here and book service.
The last step should leave you with a clear action, not more guessing.
A good result: The burner should light within a few clicks on gas models or heat normally on electric models without intermittent failure.
If not: If the new part does not fix it, stop replacing parts and move to professional diagnosis for wiring, switch feed, or internal ignition issues.
What to conclude: A successful repair confirms the fault was local to that burner. A failed repair points to wiring, socket damage, or a deeper control problem.
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Most often the burner cap is sitting crooked, the flame ports are clogged, or the burner area is still damp from cleaning or a spill. If the other burners work, start there before suspecting a failed part.
You can sometimes prove that gas is reaching the burner that way, but it is not the best first move. Clean, dry, and reseat the burner parts first. If gas odor is strong or ignition is delayed, stop and do not keep testing with an open flame.
If your range uses removable coil elements, swap the suspect element with another same-size burner. If the problem follows the element, the range surface element is bad. If the problem stays at the same position, look at the range burner switch or socket area instead.
That usually means the problem is local to that burner position: a dirty or wet gas burner, a failed range surface element, a bad range burner switch, or a burner-specific igniter issue. Whole-range controls are less likely when only one burner is affected.
Neither until the simple checks are done. On gas burners, cap alignment, blocked ports, and moisture are more common than part failure. Replace a range burner igniter only when cleaning and drying did not help and the spark behavior at that burner clearly points to it.
Intermittent ignition usually still points to dirt, moisture, a cap that shifts out of place, or an igniter that is weakening. Watch whether it fails more after cleaning, after boilovers, or when the burner is hot, because that pattern helps narrow it down.