What a raccoon-damaged downspout extension usually looks like
Extension pulled apart
The extension is lying beside the downspout, partly attached, or hanging off the outlet after nighttime animal activity.
Start here: Check the outlet and first connection for cracks, torn fastener holes, or a loose connector before forcing it back together.
Extension crushed or flattened
One section is stepped on, caved in, or pinched enough that water cannot move through it freely.
Start here: Look for the narrowest crushed spot first. If the shape is badly collapsed, plan on replacing that section.
Water now pools near the foundation
The extension is still attached, but runoff spills at the house or leaks from a seam instead of reaching the discharge end.
Start here: Run water through the downspout and watch for leaks, backflow, or a blocked outlet caused by the damaged section shifting out of line.
Outlet end moved or buried
The far end is flipped up, shoved into mulch, or packed with dirt and leaves where the animal disturbed the area.
Start here: Clear the discharge end and reset the extension so water can exit freely before assuming the whole piece is bad.
Most likely causes
1. Crushed downspout extension
Raccoons often step, sit, or tug on lightweight extensions until one section flattens and restricts flow.
Quick check: Sight down the length and look for a pinched section, crease, or oval shape where it should be round or open.
2. Pulled-apart downspout connection
If the extension was already a little loose, an animal can separate the joint at the downspout outlet or elbow.
Quick check: Grab the connection by hand. If it slips apart easily or wobbles, the joint needs to be resecured or the connector replaced.
3. Split seam or torn outlet end
Plastic extensions and thin metal ends can crack when twisted sideways or yanked while partly clogged.
Quick check: Look for a seam opening, torn edge, or crack right where the extension slides over the outlet.
4. Blocked or buried discharge end after disturbance
Sometimes the raccoon did not ruin the extension itself; it just shoved the outlet into soil, mulch, or debris so water cannot leave.
Quick check: Inspect the far end for packed dirt, leaves, stones, or standing water inside the extension.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Check whether the damage is only at the extension or higher up
You want to separate a simple ground-level repair from a bent downspout or gutter problem before you start pulling parts apart.
- Walk the full visible run from the downspout outlet to the discharge end.
- Look for obvious animal damage: crushed sections, chew marks, torn seams, pulled joints, or an outlet flipped out of place.
- Check the downspout above the extension for dents, separation, or a loose lower elbow.
- Look at the soil near the foundation for fresh washout, splash marks, or mulch moved by overflowing water.
Next move: If the damage is limited to the extension or its connection, you can stay on this repair path. If the downspout itself is bent, detached, or leaking above the extension, the problem is larger than the extension alone.
What to conclude: Most raccoon damage stays at ground level, but once the vertical downspout or lower elbow is distorted, the repair usually expands beyond a simple extension swap.
Stop if:- The downspout is pulling away from the wall.
- You see water entering the siding, foundation joint, or basement area.
- The lower elbow or wall attachment is bent enough that forcing it could tear the downspout.
Step 2: Clear the outlet end and check for a simple blockage
A shifted or buried outlet can make a good extension act clogged, and that is easier to fix than replacing parts.
- Lift the discharge end and remove leaves, dirt, mulch, and stones by hand.
- If the extension is flexible, straighten any sharp kink that formed when it was moved.
- Look inside both ends with a flashlight for packed debris or a collapsed inner section.
- If needed, rinse the extension with a garden hose from the discharge end back toward the downspout end until water runs clear.
Next move: If water now passes freely and the extension shape is intact, reset it with a steady downhill pitch away from the house. If water backs up, leaks from a seam, or stalls at one crushed spot, keep going and inspect the damaged section closely.
What to conclude: A blocked outlet is a setup problem. Backing up at a crushed or split section points to physical damage that cleaning will not solve.
Step 3: Test the connection at the downspout outlet
This is where raccoons most often pull the extension loose or crack the receiving end.
- Disconnect the extension carefully if it is still partly attached.
- Inspect the first few inches of the extension for splits, torn screw holes, or a stretched opening that no longer grips the outlet.
- Check the downspout outlet or elbow for deformation that keeps the extension from seating squarely.
- Reconnect the extension dry and see whether it fits snugly without tape, force, or a crooked angle.
Next move: If the extension seats firmly and stays aligned, secure it and move on to a water test. If the end is cracked, too loose, or misshapen, replace the damaged extension end or use the correct downspout connector if that is the failed piece.
Step 4: Replace the damaged section that is actually causing the failure
Once you know whether the problem is a crushed run, a split end, or a failed connector, you can replace only the bad part instead of guessing.
- Replace the downspout extension if it is flattened, split along a seam, or no longer holds shape and slope.
- Replace the downspout connector if the extension is sound but the joint piece is cracked, loose, or the wrong size for a stable fit.
- Replace the downspout elbow only if that elbow is visibly bent or cracked and is what keeps the extension from lining up.
- Set the repaired run so water flows away from the house without a belly, uphill section, or buried outlet.
Next move: If the new or resecured section sits straight and holds position, you are ready for a full flow test. If the new extension still backs up, the trouble is likely farther downstream, often in a buried outlet or underground continuation.
Step 5: Run a full water test and finish the setup
A repair is not done until you know water reaches the discharge point without leaking at the house.
- Run a garden hose into the gutter or top of the downspout for several minutes.
- Watch the repaired connection first, then the full extension length, then the discharge end.
- Confirm water exits strongly at the far end and does not leak from seams or pool near the foundation.
- If the extension still backs up into a buried line or outlet, move to the clogged buried downspout or buried downspout outlet problem next instead of forcing more water through.
A good result: You have a finished repair: the extension is intact, connected, and carrying runoff away from the house again.
If not: If flow is still poor after the damaged section is fixed, treat it as a downstream clog problem rather than more animal damage.
What to conclude: A good test tells you whether you solved the physical damage or uncovered a separate drainage restriction farther out.
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FAQ
Can a raccoon really damage a downspout extension that badly?
Yes. Raccoons are heavy and strong enough to crush lightweight extensions, pull apart loose joints, and shove outlet ends into soil or mulch.
Should I just tape a split downspout extension?
Usually no. Tape may hold briefly, but a split or flattened extension tends to leak again or collapse under flow. Replace the damaged section if the shape or seam is compromised.
How do I know if the problem is animal damage or a clog?
If you can see crushing, torn seams, or a pulled-apart joint, start with the physical damage. If the repaired or reconnected extension still backs up during a hose test, there is likely a clog farther downstream.
What if the extension looks fine but water still pools near the house?
Check the outlet end first. It may be buried, flipped uphill, or blocked with debris. If the extension drains into a buried line, the buried outlet may be clogged instead.
Do I need to replace the whole downspout?
Not usually. Most raccoon damage is limited to the extension, connector, or lower elbow. Replace the whole downspout only if the vertical section is bent, torn, or pulling away from the wall.