Washer not draining

Miele Washer Water Drainage Fault

Direct answer: A Miele washer water drainage fault usually means the machine cannot push water out fast enough. Most of the time the cause is a clogged washer drain filter, a kinked washer drain hose, or debris jamming the washer drain pump.

Most likely: Start with the drain filter and the full drain path to the standpipe or sink. Coins, lint, hair pins, and small clothing items are much more common than a failed part.

If there is water left in the drum, work slowly and expect a mess. Reality check: even a small sock or a few coins can stop a washer from draining. Common wrong move: pulling the machine out and replacing the pump before checking the filter and hose for a simple jam.

Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a control board or tearing the washer apart. Drain faults are usually blockage problems first.

If the drum is still full of water,pause the cycle, unplug the washer, and get towels ready before opening any drain access.
If the washer hums but water barely moves,treat that like a blockage first, not an automatic pump failure.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17

What this drain fault usually looks like

Water sitting in the drum

The cycle ends or pauses and you can still see water below the door glass or around the clothes.

Start here: Start with the washer drain filter and be ready to drain water slowly into a shallow pan or towels.

Humming or buzzing during drain

You hear the washer trying to drain, but little or no water reaches the standpipe or sink.

Start here: Check for a jammed washer drain pump or a blocked washer drain hose before assuming the pump is bad.

Very slow draining

Some water leaves, but it takes much longer than normal and the machine may fault out before finishing.

Start here: Look for partial blockage in the washer drain filter, drain hose, or the house standpipe connection.

No spin after wash

The washer will not move into a full spin because it still senses water inside.

Start here: Treat this as a drain problem first. A washer that cannot empty fully often will not spin up.

Most likely causes

1. Clogged washer drain filter

This is the most common cause when the machine stops with water inside or drains slowly. Small debris collects here first.

Quick check: Open the drain access, drain the water carefully, and inspect the filter for lint, coins, buttons, hair pins, or fabric.

2. Kinked or partially blocked washer drain hose

A hose pinched behind the washer or packed with sludge can let a little water through but not enough to finish the cycle.

Quick check: Pull the washer forward enough to see the full hose path and check for sharp bends, crushing, or buildup at the outlet end.

3. Washer drain pump jammed with debris

If the filter area is clear but the pump only hums or the impeller feels stuck, debris may be caught in the pump housing.

Quick check: With power disconnected and water removed, inspect the pump inlet area behind the filter opening for string, elastic, or hard objects.

4. Washer drain pump failed mechanically or electrically

If the drain path is clear and the pump does not run, or runs loudly without moving water, the pump itself may be worn out.

Quick check: After clearing all blockages, run a drain cycle. If the pump stays silent or only buzzes and the hose remains clear, the pump is a strong suspect.

Step-by-step fix

Step 1: Make it safe and confirm this is really a drain problem

You want to separate a true drainage fault from a paused cycle, a door issue, or a simple setup problem before opening anything.

  1. Cancel the cycle if the controls respond, then unplug the washer.
  2. Look through the door glass or open the lid if your model allows and confirm water is still in the tub.
  3. Check whether the machine failed during drain or spin rather than during fill.
  4. Look at the drain hose where it enters the standpipe or sink and make sure it has not fallen too deep into the pipe or popped loose onto the floor.

Next move: If the hose was out of place or obviously pinched and correcting it lets the washer drain normally on the next try, you likely solved the problem without parts. If water is still trapped in the washer, move on to draining it safely and checking the filter.

What to conclude: A washer that still holds water after a canceled cycle almost always needs a drain-path check before anything else.

Stop if:
  • Water is leaking onto the floor and you cannot control it with towels or a shallow pan.
  • The washer is hardwired or you cannot safely disconnect power.
  • The drain hose connection is damaged or the standpipe is backing up immediately.

Step 2: Drain the washer slowly and clean the washer drain filter

This is the highest-payoff check. Most drainage faults are caused by debris caught at the filter or pump entry.

  1. Place towels and a shallow pan at the drain access area.
  2. Open the service access and release water slowly if your washer has a small drain tube or loosen the filter carefully a little at a time.
  3. Remove the washer drain filter once the water is under control.
  4. Clean off lint, sludge, coins, buttons, and any fabric strands.
  5. Wipe the filter sealing surface and rinse the filter with warm water. Use mild soap only if greasy residue is heavy.
  6. Look into the filter cavity with a flashlight for debris packed deeper inside.

Next move: If the washer drains and spins normally after reinstalling the filter, the blockage was at the filter area. If the filter was clean or the fault returns right away, check the hose path and pump area next.

What to conclude: A dirty filter points to a simple blockage. A clean filter pushes suspicion farther down the drain path or into the pump itself.

Step 3: Check the washer drain hose from the machine to the house drain

A partial hose blockage or a crushed hose can mimic a bad pump and is common after the washer has been pushed back too far.

  1. Pull the washer forward enough to inspect the full drain hose without straining the water lines or cord.
  2. Straighten any sharp kink or flattened section.
  3. Remove the hose from the standpipe or sink connection and inspect the outlet end for lint sludge or a small garment.
  4. If accessible, disconnect the washer drain hose from the washer side and check for blockage through the hose.
  5. Flush the hose with water at a sink or tub if you can do it without making a mess inside the machine.
  6. Check the house standpipe or sink drain for obvious backup while the hose is out.

Next move: If clearing or repositioning the hose restores a strong drain, the washer itself may be fine. If the hose is clear and the house drain is accepting water, the pump area is the next place to inspect.

Step 4: Inspect the washer drain pump for a jam

When the filter and hose are clear, the next most likely problem is debris caught in the pump impeller or housing.

  1. Keep the washer unplugged.
  2. Use a flashlight through the filter opening or access panel area to inspect the washer drain pump inlet.
  3. Look for string, rubber bands, bra wire, toothpicks, or hard debris wrapped around or wedged against the impeller.
  4. If you can reach the impeller safely, check whether it turns with light resistance instead of being locked solid.
  5. Remove visible debris carefully without prying hard on the impeller blades.
  6. Reassemble and run a drain or rinse-and-spin cycle.

Next move: If the pump starts moving water strongly after debris removal, the jam was the cause. If the pump still only hums, makes grinding noise, leaks, or stays silent with a clear drain path, the pump is likely failing and replacement is the sensible next move.

Step 5: Replace the failed drain component or call for service

By this point you have ruled out the common blockage spots. The remaining likely fix is a bad washer drain pump or a damaged washer drain hose.

  1. Replace the washer drain pump if the drain path is clear and the pump is silent, seized, leaking, or only hums without moving water.
  2. Replace the washer drain hose if it is split, permanently kinked, or still restricted after cleaning.
  3. After repair, run a short rinse-and-spin cycle with no laundry first, then a small test load.
  4. Watch the drain discharge for a strong, steady flow and check the pump area and hose connections for leaks.
  5. If the washer still shows a drainage fault after a clear path and a known-good pump, stop there and schedule appliance service for deeper electrical diagnosis.

A good result: If the washer drains quickly, spins normally, and stays dry around the pump and hose connections, the repair is complete.

If not: If the machine still will not energize the pump or keeps faulting with a confirmed clear drain system, the problem is beyond the normal homeowner repair path.

What to conclude: A confirmed pump or hose failure is a reasonable DIY repair. Persistent faults after that usually point to wiring, sensing, or control issues that are not good guess-and-buy territory.

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FAQ

What does a Miele washer water drainage fault usually mean?

It usually means the washer cannot empty water fast enough. The most common causes are a clogged washer drain filter, a kinked washer drain hose, or debris jamming the washer drain pump.

Can a washer still show a drainage fault if the pump is not bad?

Yes. That is common. A pump can hum and still be blocked by coins, lint, string, or a small garment. Clear the filter and hose before calling the pump failed.

Why will the washer not spin when this fault shows up?

Most washers will not go into full spin if water is still inside. The machine has to drain first, so a drain problem often looks like a spin problem.

Should I use drain cleaner to clear the washer?

No. Drain cleaner can damage washer parts and create a safety hazard when you open the drain system. Use manual cleaning, warm water, and mild soap where appropriate instead.

When is the washer drain pump the likely bad part?

After the washer drain filter and washer drain hose are confirmed clear, the drain pump becomes the likely part if it is silent, seized, leaking, grinding, or humming without moving water.

Could the problem be my house drain instead of the washer?

Yes. If the standpipe or laundry sink backs up as soon as the washer tries to discharge, the washer may be fine and the plumbing drain is the real problem.