Clicking from the lower rear and no cooling anywhere
You hear a click near the compressor area, maybe a brief hum, then silence. Both sections stay warm.
Start here: Start with the condenser area and compressor start relay checks.
Refrigerator not cooling
Maytag Refrigerator Clicking but Not Cooling
Direct answer: If your Maytag refrigerator is clicking but not cooling, the most common cause is a compressor that tries to start, clicks off, and never gets running. Before you assume the compressor is bad, check whether the clicking is coming from the back near the compressor, whether the condenser fan is running, and whether the freezer has heavy frost blocking airflow.
Most likely: Most often, this is a failed refrigerator compressor start relay or a dirty-overheated condenser area. If the freezer is cold but the fresh-food side is warm, shift your attention to frost buildup or an evaporator fan problem instead.
Listen first, then look. A sharp click every few seconds or every minute from the lower rear of the cabinet is a different problem than a fan blade ticking inside the freezer. Reality check: when a refrigerator is truly not cooling at all and the compressor keeps clicking off, the fix is usually either fairly simple or not a DIY repair at all. Common wrong move: unplugging and replugging it over and over just overheats the start components and muddies the diagnosis.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a compressor or control board. A lot of these turn out to be a bad start device, blocked airflow, or a defrost issue you can spot in a few minutes.
If the click is from the lower backCheck the compressor area, condenser fan, and coils first.
If the freezer is frosted over or only the fridge side is warmLook for an airflow or defrost failure before chasing the compressor.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17
What the clicking sounds like and what to check first
Freezer cold enough to make ice, refrigerator section warm
The machine runs, but cold air is not reaching the fresh-food side well.
Start here: Start with frost pattern and evaporator fan checks.
Repeated clicking with hot cabinet sides or a hot compressor area
The refrigerator seems to be trying to run, but the compressor shell is very hot and cooling never starts.
Start here: Start with coil cleaning, condenser fan operation, and the start device.
Ticking or tapping from inside the freezer
The sound is more like a blade hitting ice or plastic, not a heavy electrical click from the back.
Start here: Start with ice buildup and evaporator fan obstruction checks.
Most likely causes
1. Failed refrigerator compressor start relay
A bad start relay often causes the classic click-hum-click pattern from the lower rear. The compressor tries to start, draws current, then drops out on overload.
Quick check: Pull the refrigerator out, remove the lower rear cover, and listen right at the compressor area. If the click is there and the compressor never settles into a steady run, the start relay is high on the list.
2. Dirty condenser coils or a stalled refrigerator condenser fan
When the condenser cannot shed heat, the compressor runs hot or trips off, and cooling falls off fast. Clicking can follow repeated hot restart attempts.
Quick check: Look underneath or behind for a mat of dust on the coils and confirm the condenser fan near the compressor is spinning when the refrigerator is calling for cooling.
3. Heavy frost buildup blocking evaporator airflow
If the freezer back wall is packed with frost, cold air cannot move properly. That can leave the refrigerator section warm and may make the evaporator fan click or tick against ice.
Quick check: Open the freezer and inspect the rear interior panel. A snowy or solid frosted panel points to a defrost problem, not a compressor start problem.
4. Evaporator fan motor not moving air
On many refrigerators, the freezer may still get somewhat cold while the fresh-food side warms up if the evaporator fan is slow, noisy, or stopped.
Quick check: Open the freezer, press the door switch, and listen for the evaporator fan. No fan sound or a fan that clicks and stalls points to that branch.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Pin down where the click is coming from
You need to separate a compressor start click at the back from a fan blade noise inside the cabinet. They look similar from the kitchen and lead to very different repairs.
- Set the temperature controls to normal cooling settings and make sure the unit has power.
- Stand by the lower rear of the refrigerator and listen for a firm click near the compressor area.
- Then listen inside the freezer for a lighter ticking, scraping, or fan noise.
- Note whether both sections are warm or whether the freezer is still cold while the refrigerator section is warm.
Next move: If you clearly identify the sound source, the rest of the diagnosis gets much faster. If you cannot tell where the sound is coming from, move to the next step and check the rear service area and freezer separately.
What to conclude: A heavy click from the lower rear usually points to the compressor start circuit or overheating. A lighter click or tick inside the freezer usually points to frost or a fan problem.
Stop if:
- You smell burning insulation or melted plastic near the compressor area.
- You see damaged wiring, arcing, or scorch marks.
- The refrigerator is built in so tightly that you cannot pull it out safely.
Step 2: Check the condenser area for overheating problems
Dirty coils and a dead condenser fan are common, visible causes of poor cooling and compressor clicking. They are also the safest things to check first.
- Unplug the refrigerator.
- Pull it out enough to remove the lower rear access cover.
- Inspect the condenser coils and the area around the compressor for heavy dust, pet hair, or lint.
- Clean loose debris from the coils and fan area with a vacuum and a soft brush.
- Spin the condenser fan blade by hand. It should turn freely without grinding or wobbling.
- Plug the refrigerator back in and watch whether the condenser fan starts when the unit calls for cooling.
Next move: If the fan runs and the refrigerator starts cooling normally after cleaning, overheating was likely the main problem. If the condenser fan does not run, or the compressor still clicks and quits after the area is clean, keep going.
What to conclude: A packed condenser or stalled condenser fan can make the compressor run too hot and trip off. If the fan is running and the click remains, the start relay becomes more likely.
Step 3: Look for a frost-blocked airflow problem in the freezer
If the freezer is still somewhat cold or the clicking is inside the cabinet, a defrost or evaporator fan issue is more likely than a compressor failure.
- Open the freezer and inspect the back interior panel for heavy frost, snow, or a bulged ice sheet.
- Press and hold the freezer door switch and listen for the evaporator fan.
- Feel for airflow from the freezer vents with the door switch held in.
- If the fan clicks, scrapes, or does not move air, unplug the refrigerator and let the fan area thaw naturally with the doors open and towels down if needed.
Next move: If airflow returns after thawing and the clicking inside the freezer stops, ice was interfering with the evaporator fan or blocking airflow. If there is no heavy frost and no evaporator fan operation, or if both sections are warm with clicking from the back, move to the compressor start check.
Step 4: Test the refrigerator compressor start relay branch
Once the condenser area is clean and the click is clearly coming from the compressor area, the start relay is the most practical DIY part to check before calling the compressor bad.
- Unplug the refrigerator and remove the start device from the side of the compressor only if it is accessible without cutting wires or tubing.
- Inspect the refrigerator compressor start relay for burn marks, rattling loose pieces, or obvious heat damage.
- Smell the relay. A sharp burnt electrical smell is a strong clue.
- Reinstall or replace the refrigerator compressor start relay only if the diagnosis fits: rear click, compressor not staying on, and no frost-blocked airflow issue taking the lead.
- After reinstalling or replacing the relay, restore power and listen for the compressor to start and stay running with a steady hum.
Next move: If the compressor starts and stays running, cooling should begin to return over the next several hours. If a known-good start relay does not get the compressor running and the compressor still clicks off, the problem is likely the compressor itself or another sealed-system fault.
Step 5: Decide between the supported repair and a pro call
At this point you should know whether you have an airflow repair, a start relay repair, or a sealed-system problem that needs a technician.
- If the condenser fan is not running but has power and the blade is not jammed, replace the refrigerator condenser fan motor.
- If the evaporator fan is noisy, stalled, or only runs after thawing and then fails again, replace the refrigerator evaporator fan motor.
- If the freezer back wall keeps frosting over after a full thaw, plan on a defrost-system diagnosis and service rather than guessing at multiple parts.
- If the compressor still clicks with a good start relay and clean condenser airflow, schedule a refrigerator service call for compressor or sealed-system diagnosis.
- Move food to a cooler or another refrigerator if cabinet temperatures are not recovering.
A good result: If you make the right repair, the clicking should stop or change to a normal steady run sound, and temperatures should begin dropping the same day.
If not: If temperatures do not improve after the confirmed repair, stop replacing parts and get a sealed-system diagnosis.
What to conclude: The practical DIY wins here are usually a refrigerator compressor start relay, refrigerator condenser fan motor, or refrigerator evaporator fan motor. Persistent clicking with no cooling after those checks usually means a compressor or sealed-system issue, which is not a basic DIY repair.
Replacement Parts
Refrigerator compressor start relay
Refrigerator condenser fan motor
Refrigerator evaporator fan motor
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FAQ
Why does my Maytag refrigerator click every few seconds and stay warm?
That pattern usually means the compressor is trying to start and dropping out. The most common homeowner-level causes are a failed refrigerator compressor start relay, dirty condenser coils, or a condenser fan that is not moving air.
Can a bad start relay keep a refrigerator from cooling at all?
Yes. If the start relay fails, the compressor may never get up and running, so both the freezer and refrigerator sections stay warm. You will often hear a click, maybe a short hum, then another click.
If the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm, is the compressor still the problem?
Usually not the first place to look. That pattern more often points to blocked airflow from frost buildup or a failed refrigerator evaporator fan motor.
Should I keep unplugging and restarting the refrigerator to see if it catches?
No. Repeated restart attempts can overheat the compressor and start components. Make your checks, then either complete the confirmed repair or leave it off while you protect the food.
When is this no longer a DIY repair?
If a good start relay does not solve rear clicking, if you see oil around refrigerant lines, or if the compressor still will not run steadily, you are likely into compressor or sealed-system work. That is technician territory.
How long should it take to cool again after the right repair?
You should usually hear a normal running sound right away if the compressor starts properly. Cabinet temperatures often begin improving within a few hours, with full pull-down taking longer depending on how warm the refrigerator got.