Click every few minutes from the back
You hear a click near the lower rear, sometimes with a short hum, then it goes quiet again while the freezer stays warm.
Start here: Go first to the compressor-area check and condenser cleaning.
Freezer noise and cooling failure
Maytag Freezer Clicking but Not Cooling
Direct answer: If your Maytag freezer is clicking but not cooling, the most common pattern is the compressor trying to start and failing. Before you assume the worst, check for a tripped outlet, a dirty condenser area, heavy frost on the back wall, or a freezer fan that is not moving air.
Most likely: A repeated click every few minutes from the lower rear of the freezer usually points to a bad freezer compressor start relay or a locked compressor. A click with heavy frost inside points more toward a defrost or airflow problem.
Start simple and separate the lookalikes early. Listen for where the click happens, look for frost on the inside back panel, and check whether the freezer fan and condenser area are doing their jobs. Reality check: a single click once in a while is different from a steady click-and-hum cycle with no cooling. Common wrong move: unplugging and replugging it over and over without checking frost, airflow, or the compressor area.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a compressor or control board. Most wasted money on this symptom comes from guessing before you pin down where the click is coming from and whether the freezer has a frost blockage.
If the click is from the bottom rearSuspect a compressor start problem first, not the door seal.
If the back wall inside is iced overTreat it like an airflow or defrost failure before chasing the compressor.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17
What this usually looks and sounds like
Heavy frost on the inside back wall
The freezer is not cold enough and the rear interior panel has a thick white frost blanket or snow buildup.
Start here: Start with the frost and airflow check before suspecting the compressor.
Inside light works but no strong cold air
The freezer has power, but you do not feel much air movement inside and food is softening.
Start here: Check the evaporator fan and look for ice blocking the air path.
One click, then silence after moving or cleaning
The freezer stopped cooling after being moved, unplugged, or pushed tight to the wall, and now it clicks when trying to restart.
Start here: Let it sit level, confirm power, and inspect the compressor area for overheating or a failed start relay.
Most likely causes
1. Failed freezer compressor start relay
This is the classic click-no-cool pattern. The compressor tries to start, draws hard, clicks off, and never gets the freezer cold.
Quick check: Listen at the lower rear. If you hear a hum for a second or two followed by a click, this is high on the list.
2. Heavy frost blocking the evaporator airflow
A freezer can sound normal enough but still stop cooling when the evaporator coil is packed in frost and the fan cannot move air through it.
Quick check: Open the door and inspect the inside back wall. A solid frost sheet or snow buildup strongly supports this.
3. Freezer evaporator fan motor not moving air
If the cooling system is making cold but the fan is not circulating it, the freezer warms up and may still make intermittent clicks from normal controls cycling.
Quick check: With the door switch held in, listen for a fan inside the freezer. No fan sound or a rough scraping sound points here.
4. Dirty condenser area causing overheating and hard starts
Dust-packed condenser surfaces and poor airflow around the cabinet make the compressor run hot and struggle to restart.
Quick check: Pull the freezer out and inspect the lower rear or lower front condenser area for lint, pet hair, and blocked airflow.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Pin down where the click is coming from
A click from the compressor area means something very different than a click from inside the cabinet. This one check keeps you from chasing the wrong part.
- Keep the freezer plugged in and set to a normal cold setting.
- Stand by the lower rear of the freezer and listen through one full click cycle.
- Then open the door and listen inside the cabinet near the back panel while holding the door switch closed if needed.
- Notice whether you hear a short hum before the click, a fan blade scraping, or only a light control-style tick.
Next move: If you clearly hear the click from the lower rear with a short hum first, move to the condenser and compressor-start checks next. If you cannot tell where the sound is coming from, continue with the visual frost and airflow checks before buying anything.
What to conclude: Lower-rear click-and-hum usually means a compressor start problem. Inside-cabinet noise or scraping leans more toward a fan or frost blockage.
Stop if:
- You smell burning plastic or hot electrical insulation.
- The power cord, plug, or outlet feels hot.
- The compressor area is sparking or smoking.
Step 2: Check for frost buildup and blocked airflow inside the freezer
A freezer with a defrost problem can act dead-cold in one hidden spot and warm everywhere else. Heavy frost is one of the easiest strong clues to spot.
- Open the freezer and inspect the inside back wall and air vents.
- Look for a thick frost sheet, snow-like buildup, or vents packed with ice.
- If food packages are jammed against the back panel or vents, move them forward to restore some air space.
- If the door gasket is dirty or not sealing flat, wipe it with warm water and a little mild soap, then dry it.
Next move: If you find heavy frost, your next move is to thaw the ice safely and watch whether cooling returns only temporarily. If the back wall is clear and there is no major frost, shift attention back to the compressor area and fan operation.
What to conclude: A frosted-over back wall points to a defrost-system failure or an air leak that let moisture build up until airflow choked off.
Step 3: Clean the condenser area and give the freezer room to breathe
An overheated compressor can click off on overload and never get going. This is a common, low-cost fix path and worth doing before deeper diagnosis.
- Unplug the freezer.
- Pull it out far enough to inspect the lower rear and lower front air path.
- Vacuum loose dust and lint from the condenser area and around the compressor compartment.
- Make sure the freezer is not shoved tight against the wall and that room air can move around it.
- Plug it back in and listen for the next start attempt.
Next move: If the compressor starts smoothly and the clicking stops, let the freezer run several hours and monitor temperature. If it still hums and clicks from the lower rear after cleaning and airflow correction, the start relay or compressor itself is the likely path.
Step 4: Check whether the freezer evaporator fan is actually running
No air movement inside the freezer can make it seem like the whole cooling system quit, even when part of it is still working.
- Open the freezer door and press the door switch closed if your model uses one.
- Listen for a steady fan sound from behind the inside rear panel.
- Feel for air moving from the interior vents.
- If the fan is silent but the freezer has power, wait through a click cycle and listen again.
- If the fan is noisy, scraping, or starts and stops, note that behavior.
Next move: If the fan is not running or is scraping badly, the evaporator fan branch is now supported. If the fan runs normally but the freezer still clicks and does not cool, the compressor start branch stays stronger.
Step 5: Make the call: thaw-and-watch, replace the start relay, or bring in a pro for compressor work
By now you should have enough evidence to avoid guesswork. The right next move depends on which pattern you actually found.
- If the inside back wall was heavily frosted, fully defrost the freezer with power disconnected and doors open, using towels to manage water. Do not chip ice with tools. Once thawed, restart it and watch whether it cools normally for a day or two before frost returns.
- If the click is from the lower rear and you hear a short hum before it trips off, a freezer compressor start relay is a reasonable replacement path.
- If the evaporator fan is clearly not running or is grinding and stalled, replace the freezer evaporator fan motor after confirming the blade is not just iced in.
- If the freezer still clicks after a known-good start relay or the compressor only gets hot and never runs, stop there and call a refrigeration tech.
A good result: If the freezer pulls down to normal temperature and holds it without repeated clicking, you found the right path.
If not: If it will not cool after thawing, cleaning, and the supported part check, the remaining causes are usually sealed-system, compressor, or control-side faults that are not good guess-and-buy DIY territory.
What to conclude: Temporary recovery after a full thaw points to a defrost failure. Persistent click-and-no-run points to the start circuit or a failing compressor. No circulation points to the evaporator fan branch.
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FAQ
Why does my freezer click every few minutes and stay warm?
That usually means the compressor is trying to start, failing, and tripping off on overload. A bad freezer compressor start relay is common, but heavy frost or overheating from a dirty condenser area can create a similar no-cool result.
Can a dirty condenser really make a freezer stop cooling?
Yes. If the condenser area is packed with dust and lint, the compressor runs hotter and can struggle to restart. It is not the only cause of clicking, but it is one of the first things worth checking because it is common and low-risk.
What if the freezer cools again after I fully defrost it?
That is a strong clue that frost buildup was blocking airflow. If it cools normally after a full thaw but the back wall frosts over again soon, the freezer likely has a defrost-system problem rather than a compressor-start problem.
How do I know if the evaporator fan is the problem?
Hold the door switch closed and listen for the fan inside the freezer. If there is no fan sound, no air movement, or a rough scraping noise, the freezer evaporator fan motor or an ice blockage around it becomes a likely cause.
Should I replace the compressor start relay myself?
Many homeowners can handle that repair with power disconnected, but only after confirming the click is coming from the compressor area and the symptom fits a failed start attempt. If a new relay does not change the behavior, stop there and call a pro instead of guessing at bigger parts.
Is this ever just a bad thermostat or control board?
It can be, but on a clicking-no-cooling freezer those are not the first bets. Physical clues like rear click-and-hum, heavy frost, no fan movement, or an overheated compressor usually point you in a more reliable direction first.