Direct answer: If a hose bib won’t shut off, the usual cause is a worn internal shutoff washer or a stem that is stripped and no longer driving the valve closed. Start by removing any hose, then see whether the handle is actually turning the stem or just spinning.
Most likely: Most often, the handle or stem is worn, or the valve seat and washer inside the hose bib are too damaged to seal anymore.
A hose bib that keeps running is usually a pretty mechanical problem. Either the handle is no longer moving the valve the way it should, or the valve closes but can’t seal. Reality check: once an outdoor faucet has seen a few freeze cycles, a simple drip can turn into a faucet that never fully shuts off. Common wrong move: cranking the handle tighter until the stem strips or the pipe in the wall starts twisting.
Don’t start with: Don’t start by forcing the handle harder or buying a whole new hose bib before you know whether the handle, stem, or the faucet body itself is the problem.
The handle has normal resistance, but the stream only slows down or never stops.
Start here: Start with the shutoff washer and valve seat branch. The stem is probably moving, but the faucet is not sealing.
The handle turns too easily, wobbles, or keeps rotating without changing water flow much.
Start here: Check the handle screw, handle hub, and stem splines first. This is often a stripped handle or stripped stem.
The hose bib worked before winter, then started leaking, running, or acting odd after a cold snap.
Start here: Look hard for freeze damage at the faucet body and be ready to shut off the indoor supply if the body is cracked.
Water keeps coming from the spout and may also seep around the packing nut or behind the handle.
Start here: Check whether the stem is bottoming out at all. If the stem is damaged and the packing area is leaking too, a rebuild may not be worth it.
This is the most common reason a hose bib still runs after the handle reaches the closed position. The washer hardens, splits, or wears unevenly and can’t seal against the seat.
Quick check: Turn the handle closed gently. If it stops firmly but water still drips or runs, the shutoff washer is a strong suspect.
If the handle turns without really driving the stem, the valve never reaches the fully closed position.
Quick check: Watch the stem while turning the handle. If the handle moves but the stem barely moves or slips, the handle or stem is stripped.
A rough or damaged seat can keep a new washer from sealing, and a bent or worn stem can stop the valve from closing squarely.
Quick check: If the faucet has been overtightened for a long time or still won’t seal after a washer fix, the stem or seat is likely worn.
Outdoor faucets often crack or distort after freezing, especially if a hose was left attached. Once the body or internal seat is damaged, rebuilding may not solve it.
Quick check: Look for a split, bulge, or odd seam opening on the faucet body, especially near the spout or vacuum breaker area.
A hose left on the faucet, a spray nozzle under pressure, or a stuck vacuum breaker can make the faucet act like it won’t shut off cleanly.
Next move: If the water now shuts off normally or only gives a brief drain-down, the problem was outside backpressure or a bad attachment, not the faucet body itself. If water still runs from the spout with nothing attached, the fault is inside the hose bib or the faucet body is damaged.
What to conclude: You’ve ruled out the simple lookalikes and can focus on the handle, stem, and shutoff parts.
A stripped handle is common, cheap to fix, and easy to mistake for a bad faucet.
Next move: If tightening or replacing the handle restores normal shutoff, you likely only need a hose bib handle kit. If the stem turns but the water still won’t stop, the problem is farther in at the washer, seat, or stem assembly.
What to conclude: This separates a simple stripped-handle repair from an internal shutoff failure.
If the hose bib body is cracked or distorted, rebuilding the stem usually wastes time and can leave you with a hidden leak later.
Next move: If the body looks sound and there is no sign of indoor leakage, a stem or washer repair is still reasonable. If you find a crack, bulge, or indoor leak, skip the rebuild and shut off the supply to replace the hose bib.
Once the outside causes and stripped-handle issue are ruled out, the shutoff washer and stem are the most likely failed parts.
Next move: If the washer is clearly worn and the stem threads look decent, replacing the hose bib packing and washer parts is the most sensible repair. If the washer looks fine but the stem is worn, bent, or the seat area is rough and damaged, the stem assembly or the whole hose bib is the better fix.
This is where you finish the job instead of overtightening the old faucet and hoping it behaves.
A good result: If the faucet closes fully without dribbling and stays dry around the stem and wall, the repair is done.
If not: If it still won’t shut off after a washer or handle repair, stop spending time on small parts and replace the hose bib or call a plumber if the branch shutoff is unreliable.
What to conclude: A successful rebuild confirms the body and seat were still serviceable. A failed rebuild usually means the stem or faucet body is too worn or freeze-damaged to save.
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Usually the shutoff washer is worn out, the stem is damaged, or the handle is stripped and not actually closing the valve all the way. Tightening harder rarely fixes it for long.
Yes, if the faucet body is sound and the stem comes out cleanly. If the body is cracked from freezing or the stem threads are badly worn, a washer alone will not solve it.
The handle will often spin, wobble, or turn with very little resistance while the stem barely moves. Removing the handle usually shows rounded splines or a cracked handle hub.
If you see a crack, bulge, or any indoor leakage when the faucet runs, yes. Freeze-damaged hose bibs are poor candidates for a simple rebuild because the body or seat may already be distorted.
It can be. If it is only dripping outside and you can isolate the branch, it is usually manageable. If water is leaking inside the wall, the shutoff will not hold, or the faucet is running continuously with no control, treat it as urgent.
A brief drain-down can be normal on some frost-free designs. A steady drip or continued flow is not normal and points to a worn washer, damaged stem, or freeze damage.