Only one socket is dead
A lamp or tester works in one half of the outlet but not the other.
Start here: Start with the wall switch and confirm which half is supposed to be switched.
Electrical outlet troubleshooting
Half Hot Outlet Not Working
Direct answer: A half-hot outlet usually quits because the wall switch is off or failed, the tab wiring at the outlet is loose or wrong, or the outlet lost power from a tripped GFCI or breaker upstream.
Most likely: Most often, only one half of the receptacle is controlled by a wall switch, so start by confirming which slot is dead and whether the switch still controls it.
A half-hot outlet is one receptacle where one plug stays live and the other is controlled by a wall switch. When it stops working, the pattern matters more than the part. Figure out whether one slot is dead, both are dead, or the switch stopped controlling it. Reality check: a lot of 'bad outlet' calls turn out to be a switched outlet with a tripped GFCI somewhere else. Common wrong move: replacing the receptacle before checking the switch and upstream reset points.
Don’t start with: Do not start by swapping the receptacle with the power still on or by assuming the breaker is bad. A switched outlet can look dead when the real problem is upstream or at the switch.
If both slots are deadCheck the breaker and any nearby GFCI outlets first.
If only the switched half is deadSuspect the wall switch, a loose outlet connection, or a broken tab setup.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-04
Pin down exactly what the half-hot outlet is doing
Both sockets are dead
Nothing works in either half of the receptacle.
Start here: Start upstream with the breaker, GFCI reset points, and whether other outlets are out too.
The wall switch does nothing now
The outlet may still have power, but flipping the switch no longer changes anything.
Start here: Check whether the switched half is now always hot, always dead, or wired loose at the switch or outlet.
It works sometimes or feels loose
Power cuts in and out, the plug feels sloppy, or the outlet may buzz or get warm.
Start here: Stop early and treat that as a loose-connection hazard, not a simple nuisance.
Most likely causes
1. Wall switch off, failed, or no longer feeding the switched half
On a true half-hot outlet, the switched half depends on that wall switch and its wiring. If one half still works, the switch side is the first place to suspect.
Quick check: Plug a lamp into the dead half and flip every likely wall switch in the room. If nothing changes, note whether the other half still has power.
2. Tripped GFCI or partially dead branch circuit upstream
A half-hot outlet can be fed through another receptacle or GFCI device. One reset point upstream can kill the switched half or the whole outlet.
Quick check: Press reset on nearby bathroom, garage, basement, kitchen, exterior, or laundry GFCI outlets and then retest this outlet.
3. Loose wire or failed tab/wiring at the outlet
Half-hot receptacles rely on specific wiring and a broken-off tab on one side. A loose backstab, burned terminal, or wrong tab setup can kill one half.
Quick check: If the breaker is on and upstream devices are normal, the outlet itself becomes more likely, especially if the dead half has been intermittent.
4. Worn or failed outlet contacts
If the plug fits loosely, one half may stop making good contact even though voltage is present. This is common on older receptacles used for lamps for years.
Quick check: Try a known-good lamp and a simple outlet tester. If one half stays dead or loose while the other half is normal, the receptacle may be worn out.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm the failure pattern before touching anything
A half-hot outlet can fail three different ways: one half dead, both halves dead, or the switch no longer controlling it. That pattern tells you where to look next.
- Plug the same known-good lamp or tester into the top half, then the bottom half.
- Flip the wall switch or switches in the room while the lamp is plugged into the suspected switched half.
- Check whether nearby outlets or lights also lost power.
- Look and listen for warning signs: warmth, buzzing, crackling, scorch marks, or a burnt smell.
Next move: If one half works and the other responds normally to the switch, the outlet is probably fine and the issue may have been the wrong switch or a bad lamp. If one half is dead, both halves are dead, or the switch no longer changes anything, keep going in order.
What to conclude: One dead half points toward the switch leg or outlet wiring. Both dead points upstream first. Any heat, smell, or noise raises this from troubleshooting to a safety issue.
Stop if:
- The outlet is warm, buzzing, sparking, or smells burnt.
- The faceplate is discolored or the plug blades show arcing marks.
- The outlet is loose in the box or moves when you insert a plug.
Step 2: Check the breaker and every likely GFCI reset point
Upstream power loss is more common than a failed half-hot receptacle, and it is the safest thing to rule out first.
- At the panel, look for a tripped breaker. Turn a suspect breaker fully off, then back on once.
- Find and reset nearby GFCI outlets, even if they are in another room on the same branch.
- Retest both halves of the outlet after each reset.
- If other outlets are out too, stop focusing on this receptacle alone and treat it as a branch power problem.
Next move: If power returns after a breaker reset or GFCI reset, the outlet itself may be fine. If the breaker holds and no GFCI reset restores power, the problem is more likely at the switch, the outlet, or a loose connection upstream.
What to conclude: A dead half-hot outlet with a normal breaker and no GFCI trip usually means the switched leg or receptacle wiring needs closer inspection with power off.
Stop if:
- The breaker trips again immediately.
- A GFCI will not reset.
- You are not sure which breaker controls this outlet.
Step 3: Decide whether the problem is the switch side or the outlet side
Separating switch failure from outlet failure keeps you from replacing the wrong device.
- If one half still has constant power, focus on the dead switched half first.
- Turn the wall switch on and off several times. Notice whether it feels loose, sloppy, or unusually stiff.
- If the switched half used to work and now stays dead while the always-hot half still works, suspect the wall switch or the switched conductor connection.
- If the switched half now stays live all the time, suspect a wiring change, a failed switch bypass, or incorrect tab setup at the outlet.
Next move: If the switch clearly controls the outlet again after a reset or firm toggle, monitor it but do not open anything live. If the switch has no effect and the pattern stays the same, the next safe step is a power-off inspection or a pro call.
Stop if:
- The switch sparks, crackles, or feels hot.
- You are not comfortable shutting off power and verifying it is off before opening devices.
- The outlet or switch box appears crowded, damaged, or has brittle old wiring.
Step 4: With power off, inspect the outlet for loose or burned connections
This is the most common confirmed repair point when upstream power is good and only the switched half is affected.
- Turn off the correct breaker and verify the outlet is dead with a non-contact voltage tester and a plug-in tester if available.
- Remove the faceplate and gently pull the outlet forward without touching bare conductors.
- Look for a broken or missing tab setup, loose terminal screws, backstabbed wires, discoloration, melted insulation, or a cracked receptacle body.
- If the outlet is worn, burned, loose, or backstabbed with questionable connections, replace the outlet rather than trying to reuse it.
- If the wiring looks confusing, stop and label nothing by guesswork. A half-hot outlet must be reconnected exactly right.
Next move: If you find a clearly damaged or loose receptacle and replace it correctly with power off, the switched and always-hot halves should return to normal operation. If the outlet looks sound or a new outlet does not restore the switched half, the wall switch or an upstream splice is more likely.
Stop if:
- Any conductor is still live after you thought the breaker was off.
- You find scorched insulation, melted wire nuts, or damaged copper in the box.
- You are not certain how the tab and switched conductor were originally arranged.
Step 5: Finish with the right repair or call for the right reason
At this point you should know whether this is a simple outlet replacement, a likely switch problem, or a loose connection that needs a pro.
- Replace the outlet only if you confirmed damage, looseness, worn contacts, or incorrect tab setup at the receptacle.
- If the outlet is good but the switched half still has no control, have the wall switch and switch-leg wiring tested and repaired.
- If both halves are dead and other devices are affected, treat it as an upstream branch issue rather than buying outlet parts.
- After any repair, restore power and test both halves with a lamp: one should stay live if designed that way, and the other should respond to the wall switch.
A good result: If both halves now behave correctly and the outlet stays cool and quiet under load, the repair path was likely correct.
If not: If the breaker trips, the switch still does nothing, or power is inconsistent, stop and call a licensed electrician to trace the circuit and connections.
What to conclude: The right fix is usually either a properly wired replacement receptacle or repair of the switch side. Repeated trips, heat, or inconsistent readings point to a larger wiring problem.
Stop if:
- The breaker trips after the repair.
- The outlet works intermittently or only when the plug is held a certain way.
- Any sign of arcing, smoke, or burning returns.
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FAQ
What is a half-hot outlet?
It is a duplex receptacle where one plug is always live and the other plug is controlled by a wall switch. They are common in rooms without ceiling lights, where a switch controls a lamp.
Why does only one plug on the outlet work?
That usually means you are dealing with a switched half-hot outlet, a failed switched connection, or a worn receptacle. If one half still has power, check the wall switch and upstream resets before replacing the outlet.
Can a bad wall switch make a half-hot outlet seem dead?
Yes. If the always-hot half still works but the switched half does nothing, a failed switch or loose switch-leg connection is a very common cause.
Should I replace the outlet first?
Not first. Check the breaker, nearby GFCI outlets, and the wall switch before buying parts. Replace the receptacle only after the pattern and a power-off inspection point to the outlet itself.
Is a half-hot outlet dangerous if it works intermittently?
Yes, it can be. Intermittent power, loose plug fit, buzzing, warmth, or scorch marks all suggest a loose or failing connection. Stop using it and have it repaired before it gets worse.
Why did my half-hot outlet stop working after someone changed the switch or outlet?
Half-hot outlets depend on the correct tab being broken on one side and the switched conductor landing on the right terminal. If either device was rewired incorrectly, the switched half may stay dead or stay live all the time.