All burners say pan not detected
The controls light up, but every cooking zone acts like there is no pan present.
Start here: Start with cookware type, control lock, and a full power reset.
Direct answer: When an induction range will not detect a pan, the most common cause is the cookware itself, not a bad cooktop part. Start by checking that the pan is magnetic, flat, centered, and sized for that cooking zone.
Most likely: Wrong or warped cookware, a pan that is too small for the selected zone, or residue on the glass keeping the pan from sitting flat are the first things to rule out. If only one zone refuses to sense known-good cookware, that points more toward a failed induction burner or that zone's cooktop switch.
Induction tops are picky by design. A pot can look fine and still not couple with the burner if the base is slightly warped, too small, or not truly magnetic across the whole bottom. Reality check: a lot of these calls end with different cookware, not a repair. Common wrong move: testing with a lightweight decorative pan that sticks weakly to a magnet and assuming the cooktop is bad.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering an electronic part just because the display says pan not detected. That message often shows up with normal cookware mismatch or placement issues.
The controls light up, but every cooking zone acts like there is no pan present.
Start here: Start with cookware type, control lock, and a full power reset.
Other zones heat normally, but one spot keeps flashing or refusing to start.
Start here: Use the same known-good pan on that problem zone and compare it to a working zone.
The burner starts for a moment, then stops and shows no pan or shuts itself down.
Start here: Check for a warped pan base, poor centering, or debris on the glass.
One pot heats fine, while another similar-looking pot will not register.
Start here: Confirm the failing pan is truly induction-ready and large enough for that zone.
Many pans are stainless on the sides but have a base that is weakly magnetic or unevenly magnetic, so the cooktop will not recognize them reliably.
Quick check: Try a magnet on the bottom center of the pan, then test a known-good induction pan on the same zone.
Induction zones need enough metal mass over the sensing area. A small pan on a large zone or an off-center pan often reads as no pan.
Quick check: Center the pan carefully and try a pan whose base is closer to the size of the marked burner.
Grease film, baked-on residue, or a slightly bowed pan bottom can lift part of the base away from the sensing field.
Quick check: Wipe the glass and pan bottom clean and set the pan on the cool surface to see if it rocks.
If one zone will not sense a known-good pan while the others work normally, the fault is more likely inside that zone than in the cookware.
Quick check: Move the same pan to a working zone, then back to the dead zone without changing anything else.
This separates the most common false alarm from an actual cooktop failure before you open anything or buy parts.
Next move: Your original cookware is the issue. Keep using pans that are magnetic, flat, and sized for the zone. If the known-good pan still is not detected, keep going. The problem is likely with setup, the surface, or that burner circuit.
What to conclude: A pan that works on one zone but not another is strong evidence the bad zone needs more attention than the cookware does.
Induction controls can look powered up while a lock setting, recent glitch, or weak incoming power keeps the burner from starting normally.
Next move: A control glitch or lock setting was the cause. Watch it for a few cooking cycles. If the message returns exactly the same way, move on to the surface and pan-contact checks.
What to conclude: A full reset can clear a temporary control fault, but it will not fix a bad pan, a cracked glass area, or a failed burner component.
A thin film of grease or a pan that rocks on the glass is enough to make induction sensing intermittent.
Next move: The pan was not sitting flat enough for reliable sensing. Keep that zone and pan bottom clean and dry. If the pan sits flat and the zone still will not detect it, the fault is probably not simple surface contamination.
This is the cleanest way to confirm whether one induction burner is failing instead of the whole cooktop acting up.
Next move: If the problem does not repeat, the issue was likely pan placement or a temporary control glitch. If one zone consistently fails while the others work, that zone likely has a bad induction burner or cooktop switch.
Once you have ruled out cookware, placement, cleaning, and reset issues, the remaining likely fixes are inside the cooktop.
A good result: After replacing the confirmed failed component, retest with a known-good pan on that zone first, then check the rest of the cooktop.
If not: If the new part does not restore sensing, the fault is deeper in the cooktop electronics and is better handled as a professional diagnosis.
What to conclude: At this point you either have a solid single-zone repair path or a clear reason to stop before wasting money on the wrong part.
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Usually because the pan is not magnetic enough, is too small for the zone, is off-center, or has a warped bottom. Those are much more common than a failed cooktop part.
Yes. Even a slight bow or rocking base can make sensing weak or intermittent, especially on larger zones.
Not necessarily the whole cooktop. If one zone alone fails with a known-good pan, the likely problem is that zone's induction burner or its cooktop switch, not the entire range.
It can clear a temporary control glitch, but it will not fix incompatible cookware, a warped pan, damaged glass, or a failed burner component.
Yes. The pan bottom needs to be magnetic and flat enough for the burner to sense it properly. Some pans look compatible but still work poorly on induction.