No hot water at any fixture
Every tap runs cold, even after several minutes on full hot.
Start here: Confirm this is a gas storage water heater, then check the sight glass for a pilot flame before changing any settings.
Direct answer: If a gas water heater has no hot water at all, the first things to check are whether it is actually a gas tank unit, whether the gas is on, and whether the pilot flame is lit. If the pilot will not stay lit or the burner never comes on even with the tank turned up, the problem is usually in the ignition or gas control side and that is where DIY should slow down.
Most likely: Most often, the pilot is out, the gas supply is shut off, or the thermostat is set too low. After that, a weak thermocouple-style safety circuit or failing gas control assembly becomes more likely.
Start by separating the easy lookalikes. A gas tank water heater with no hot water is different from an electric unit, and different again from a tankless heater that goes cold mid-shower. Reality check: if nobody in the house has any hot water, this is usually a water-heater problem, not a faucet problem. Common wrong move: cranking the temperature all the way up before checking whether the pilot is even burning.
Don’t start with: Do not start by buying a gas valve or taking apart burner controls. On gas water heaters, a simple pilot or supply issue is more common than a major part failure.
Every tap runs cold, even after several minutes on full hot.
Start here: Confirm this is a gas storage water heater, then check the sight glass for a pilot flame before changing any settings.
You do not see a small steady flame in the burner area, and the burner never kicks on.
Start here: Check that the gas shutoff is parallel with the pipe and follow the lighting instructions on the heater label only if you do not smell gas.
You can get a pilot, but turning the temperature up does not bring on the larger burner flame.
Start here: Make sure the thermostat is not set very low, then watch and listen for burner ignition. If nothing happens, the gas control side is suspect and pro service is often the safer move.
You get a short burst of warm water, then it fades fast.
Start here: Check the thermostat setting and burner operation first. If the burner runs normally but recovery is poor, sediment or dip-tube issues can mimic a no-heat complaint.
A gas tank water heater cannot heat without a pilot or ignition source, and an extinguished pilot is one of the most common no-hot-water calls.
Quick check: Look through the viewing window for a small steady flame. No flame means start with gas supply and relight instructions on the unit label.
If the shutoff valve is closed or another gas appliance is also dead, the heater has nothing to burn.
Quick check: Verify the gas shutoff at the heater is open and check whether a gas stove or furnace is also affected.
Vacation setting or a low dial can leave the tank lukewarm or fully cold after enough use.
Quick check: Set the control to a normal hot-water setting, not vacation, and wait for a full heating cycle.
If the pilot will not stay lit or the burner never comes on even with gas available, the safety and control side is not proving flame or opening gas correctly.
Quick check: If the pilot repeatedly drops out or the burner stays dead after proper relighting, stop short of gas-valve replacement and call for service.
A lot of wasted time comes from chasing a gas-tank checklist on an electric or tankless unit.
Next move: If you find this is an electric or tankless heater, switch to the correct troubleshooting path before doing anything else. If it is definitely a gas tank water heater and the whole house is cold, move to the pilot and gas checks.
What to conclude: You have ruled out the most common lookalikes and narrowed this to the heater itself.
No gas means no heat, and this is the safest place to stop before trying to relight anything.
Next move: If the gas was off and is now restored, the heater may relight and recover once you follow the unit instructions. If gas is on and there are no obvious hazards, check whether the pilot is actually lit.
What to conclude: You have separated a simple supply issue from a burner-control problem and screened for conditions that should not be DIY.
One visual check tells you whether the heater has any chance of firing the main burner.
Next move: If the pilot relights and stays lit, give the heater time to recover a full tank of hot water. If the pilot will not light, will not stay lit, or drops out again soon, the safety or control side is failing and this is usually a pro call.
A low setting can mimic failure, while a live pilot with no burner response points toward the control assembly.
Next move: If the burner lights and stays on, the heater may simply have been turned down or fully depleted and now needs recovery time. If the pilot is present but the burner never fires, the gas control side is the likely fault and replacement is not a casual DIY job.
Gas water heaters cross into combustion and gas-control work fast, so the smart finish is either confirmed recovery or a clean service call.
A good result: If the heater reheats the tank and keeps operating, you likely corrected a shutoff, low setting, or temporary pilot outage.
If not: If it still makes no hot water after these checks, stop DIY and have the gas burner and control assembly tested in person.
What to conclude: You have either restored operation safely or narrowed it to a gas-side fault that should not be guessed at.
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The most common reasons are a pilot that went out, the gas supply being shut off, or the control being turned down too far. If the pilot will not stay lit or the burner never comes on with gas available, the problem is usually in the burner-control side and needs service.
Usually yes, if you do not smell gas and you follow the lighting instructions printed on the heater exactly. If the instructions are missing, the pilot behaves oddly, or it will not stay lit, stop there and call for service.
A lit pilot only tells you the ignition source is present. The main burner still has to open and fire when the tank calls for heat. If the pilot is steady but the burner never lights after you raise the setting to normal, the gas control side is the likely problem.
For most homeowners, no. Gas valve and burner-control work carries gas and combustion risk, fitment matters, and misdiagnosis is common. This is one of those repairs where a clean diagnosis from a qualified tech usually saves time and money.
A full tank recovery is not instant. Small draws may warm up sooner, but a cold tank can take a while to reheat fully. Give it time, then test at a tub faucet before deciding the repair did not work.