Direct answer: A frozen pipe that is leaking usually means the pipe or a nearby fitting split when water expanded during freezing, or a joint started dripping as the line thawed and pressure returned.
Most likely: The most likely cause is a crack in an exposed copper, PEX, or CPVC branch line, especially near an exterior wall, crawlspace, attic, garage, or unheated cabinet.
With frozen pipes, the drip you see is not always the place that failed first. Water can run along insulation, framing, or the pipe itself before it shows up. The safest path is to stop pressure, separate a true pipe split from a nearby fixture leak, and only then decide whether this is a small accessible repair or a pro call.
Don’t start with: Do not start with a torch, heat gun on high, or guess-buying random plumbing parts. First shut off water to the leaking branch or the home, contain the leak, and find the first wet point.
Water is shooting out or running fast from a visible pipe, fitting, or behind a wall after a freeze.
Start here: Shut off the nearest local valve if you can reach it safely. If not, shut off the home's main water supply right away.
A basement, crawlspace, garage, or under-sink pipe is dripping after very cold weather.
Start here: Dry the area and trace upward and back along the pipe to find the first wet point before assuming the lowest drip is the failure.
The pipe seems dry until someone runs water, then a joint or split starts leaking.
Start here: This often points to a cracked section or fitting on that branch. Keep the branch off and inspect the full exposed run.
You do not see the pipe directly, but a wall, ceiling, or cabinet became wet after a freeze or thaw.
Start here: Treat this as a hidden pipe leak. Shut off water if the stain is growing, and avoid opening walls until you know the area is safe and not near energized wiring.
When water freezes, it expands and can crack the pipe wall. The leak may not appear until thawing restores flow and pressure.
Quick check: Look for a lengthwise crack, bulge, or pinhole on exposed pipe near cold exterior areas.
A compression fitting, soldered joint, threaded connection, or small shutoff valve can start leaking after freeze stress.
Quick check: Dry the fitting completely, then watch for moisture forming exactly at the joint or valve stem rather than along the pipe wall.
Under sinks and in utility spaces, a faucet supply line or fixture connection can drip after freezing and look like the branch pipe failed.
Quick check: Trace the first wet point. If the moisture starts at the faucet supply tube, stop valve, or fixture connection, the branch pipe may be fine.
If the pipe froze in an exterior wall or concealed chase, water may show up as staining, bubbling paint, or dripping far from the actual break.
Quick check: Look for a growing stain, soft drywall, or water appearing only when the affected branch is pressurized.
Stopping pressure limits damage and gives you a clearer inspection. It also separates a pressurized supply leak from leftover water draining out of a line.
Next move: If the leak stops once the water is shut off, you are dealing with a pressurized supply-side problem and can inspect more accurately. If dripping continues for a while after shutoff, it may just be water draining from the line or trapped water in insulation. If it keeps running strongly, the shutoff may not be holding or another source is involved.
What to conclude: A leak that stops with shutoff usually points to a cracked pipe, fitting, or valve on that branch rather than condensation or a drain issue.
Water often travels along pipes, framing, insulation, or cabinet surfaces. The visible drip can be lower than the actual failure.
Next move: If you find one exact spot where water first appears, you have a much better idea whether the failed part is the pipe, a fitting, or a nearby valve. If everything looks wet but you cannot identify the source, leave the water off and move to the hidden-leak branch rather than guessing.
What to conclude: A split in the pipe wall usually forms droplets on the pipe itself. Moisture that starts at a nut, valve body, or connection points more toward a fitting or local shutoff problem.
Under sinks, behind toilets, and near hose bibs, a fixture connection can leak after freezing and mimic a burst branch line.
Next move: If the leak clearly starts at a fixture supply connection or local stop valve, the frozen branch pipe may not be the failed part. If the leak appears on the pipe body or an in-line fitting even with the fixture untouched, the branch line itself is likely damaged.
Some frozen-pipe leaks are limited to one exposed section. Others involve concealed damage, multiple splits, or water-damaged building materials.
Next move: If you confirm one accessible damaged spot and the rest of the exposed run looks sound, a local pipe repair may be reasonable. If the leak is hidden, there may be multiple damaged sections, or building materials are wet, this is usually the point to bring in a plumber and possibly water-damage help.
A repaired pipe can freeze again if the cold exposure is not addressed. Prevention matters as much as the repair.
A good result: If the area stays warmer and the pipe is protected, the chance of another freeze-related leak drops sharply.
If not: If the same area freezes despite basic prevention, the pipe routing or insulation strategy may need a more thorough professional fix.
What to conclude: Freeze prevention is usually about reducing cold exposure and improving heat retention, not just patching the last leak.
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Yes. Many frozen pipes do not show a leak until the ice melts and water pressure returns. That is why leaks often appear during a warm-up rather than during the coldest hours.
Dry everything first, then watch where the first droplet forms. Water starting on the pipe wall suggests a split pipe. Water forming at a nut, valve body, or joint points more toward a fitting or shutoff connection.
If the leak was active under pressure, yes. Keeping the branch or main off prevents more damage while you inspect. Brief testing is reasonable only when the area is visible and you can shut the water back off immediately.
A hair dryer on a low, controlled setting can be safer than aggressive heat, but only on an exposed dry pipe and only if there is no standing water or hidden cavity involved. Do not use open flames, and do not heat a pipe you already know is leaking under pressure.
Treat it as a hidden supply leak. Shut off water if the wet area is growing, avoid opening the wall near possible wiring, and consider calling a plumber because concealed freeze damage can involve more than one break.