Gate has to be lifted to close
The latch side drops and lines up only when you pick up the gate by hand.
Start here: Check for loose fence gate hinge screws, sagging hinges, or a twisted gate frame first.
Direct answer: A fence gate that will not close is usually sagging at the hinge side, rubbing from seasonal swelling, or missing the latch because the gate or post has shifted.
Most likely: Start by watching the gap around the gate as you lift it slightly by hand. If the latch lines up when you lift, you usually have loose fence gate hinges, worn screw holes, or a moving latch post.
Most fence gate closing problems are visible once you slow down and watch where the gate first makes contact. Look for a tight top corner, a dragging bottom edge, or a latch that lands high or low. Reality check: wood and posts move more than most homeowners expect, especially after wet weather. Common wrong move: cranking hinge screws tighter into stripped wood and calling it fixed.
Don’t start with: Do not start by forcing the latch shut or buying a new fence gate latch. A lot of gates miss the latch because the gate is hanging wrong, not because the latch itself failed.
The latch side drops and lines up only when you pick up the gate by hand.
Start here: Check for loose fence gate hinge screws, sagging hinges, or a twisted gate frame first.
The gate reaches the post, but the latch lands too high, too low, or too far to the side.
Start here: Inspect fence gate latch alignment and look for post movement before replacing the latch.
You feel scraping at the top corner, bottom edge, or latch-side edge.
Start here: Look for wood swelling, debris in the swing path, or a gate that has gone out of square.
The problem showed up after heavy rain, freeze-thaw, or a very hot stretch.
Start here: Check for swollen wood, heaved soil around the post, or a post that is no longer plumb.
This is the most common reason a gate drops just enough to miss the latch or rub at one corner.
Quick check: Open the gate halfway and lift the latch side. If you see hinge movement or screws shifting in the wood, start there.
If the gate swings normally but will not catch, the latch or striker is often sitting high, low, or too far back.
Quick check: Close the gate slowly and watch where the latch tongue meets the catch. A clean miss tells you more than forcing it.
A leaning latch post or hinge post changes the opening enough to keep a good gate from closing right.
Quick check: Stand back and sight the posts vertically, or hold a level to each post and compare them.
Wood gates often tighten up after wet weather, and a slightly twisted frame can bind before the latch reaches home.
Quick check: Look for fresh rub marks, shiny scrape spots, or a gap that narrows sharply at one corner.
You need to separate a sag problem from a latch problem before you touch hardware.
Next move: If a slight lift makes the gate close, you have a sag or alignment problem, not a sticky latch. If lifting changes nothing, focus on rubbing, swelling, or post movement instead.
What to conclude: The first contact point tells you where the opening geometry changed.
Loose hinge screws and worn hinge leaves are the fastest common fix, and they often cause the whole problem.
Next move: If tightening and supporting the gate restores even gaps and the latch catches cleanly, the hinge hardware was the main problem. If the hinges are tight but the gate still sits low or twisted, check the post and gate frame next.
What to conclude: A gate that changes position when supported usually has hinge wear, stripped mounting points, or both.
A lot of gates swing fine but still will not close because the latch no longer meets the catch squarely.
Next move: If the gate swings freely and catches after a small latch adjustment, the main issue was latch alignment. If the latch is far off or keeps drifting out of line, the post or gate is moving and needs attention first.
When hardware is tight but the opening changed, the structure usually tells the story.
Next move: If clearing debris or waiting for swollen wood to dry restores normal closing, you can avoid unnecessary part replacement. If the posts are out of plumb or the gate frame is twisted, the repair is beyond simple hardware adjustment.
Once you know whether the problem is hinges, latch alignment, or structural movement, the fix gets straightforward.
A good result: If the gate closes smoothly with even gaps and catches on its own, you fixed the right problem.
If not: If new hardware still will not hold alignment, the post or gate frame needs repair before more parts will help.
What to conclude: Hardware fixes work when the structure is stable. If alignment keeps changing, the support underneath is the real issue.
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That usually means the gate has sagged. Loose fence gate hinges, worn hinge barrels, stripped screw holes, or a shifting hinge post are the usual causes.
Not usually. If the gate is hanging low or rubbing, a new latch will not fix the real problem. Check hinge tightness and gate alignment before buying a latch.
Yes. Wood gates can swell after rain, and wet soil can let a post move slightly. If the problem started with weather, look for swollen edges, fresh rub marks, and post lean.
If the latch keeps drifting out of alignment, the post rocks when pushed, or a level shows the post is out of plumb, the post or footing is likely the real issue.
Only after you know the posts are stable. Trimming a gate that is sagging or sitting in a moving opening can hide the real problem and leave you with bigger gaps later.
That is usually a sag or post-movement problem, not a latch problem. Treat it like a dragging gate first, then recheck latch alignment after the gate is hanging correctly.