Code appears before the cycle starts
You press start, hear a click or two, then the washer refuses to run and shows E42.
Start here: Check for laundry, detergent buildup, or a bent washer door strike keeping the door from seating fully.
Washer stuck with an error code
Electrolux Washer E42 Code
Direct answer: On an Electrolux washer, an E42 code usually means the control is not seeing the door lock switch change state the way it should. Most of the time that comes down to a door that is not closing cleanly, a misaligned door strike, or a failing washer door latch.
Most likely: Start with the simple stuff: open the door, check for laundry caught in the opening, make sure the door strike is intact, then close the door firmly and try again after a power reset.
If the washer clicks but will not start, or it finishes a cycle and acts like the door is still locked, stay on the door-lock path first. Reality check: a lot of E42 calls end up being a bad latch or a door that is just not seating square. Common wrong move: slamming the door harder until the strike or latch gets damaged.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a control board. This code is much more often a door-closing or washer door latch problem.
If the door feels loose or has to be lifted to catch,check alignment and the washer door strike before replacing anything.
If the door closes normally but the code comes right back,the washer door latch is the strongest suspect.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17
What E42 usually looks like on a washer
Code appears after a cycle ends
The washer has finished or nearly finished, but it acts like the door is still locked or still reading the lock wrong.
Start here: Try a full power reset first, then inspect the washer door latch opening for damage or debris.
Door has to be pushed or lifted to work
The washer may start only if you lean on the door, lift it slightly, or close it just right.
Start here: Look closely at hinge sag, loose hinge screws, and a cracked washer door strike before blaming electronics.
Door closes normally but code returns every time
Nothing looks obviously wrong from the outside, but the washer still throws E42 consistently.
Start here: That pattern points more strongly to a failing washer door latch assembly or its wiring connection.
Most likely causes
1. Door not fully closing
A sock, heavy gasket fold, detergent residue, or a slightly shifted load can keep the latch from seeing a clean closed-door signal.
Quick check: Open the door and inspect the opening, gasket edge, and latch area for anything caught or built up.
2. Damaged or misaligned washer door strike
If the strike is cracked, loose, or not entering the latch squarely, the washer may click but never confirm the lock.
Quick check: Look for a worn, bent, or broken plastic strike and see whether the door has to be lifted to line up.
3. Failing washer door latch assembly
This is the most common actual part failure when the door closes normally but E42 keeps returning.
Quick check: Close the door slowly and feel for a weak catch, inconsistent click, or no solid engagement at the latch.
4. Loose wiring at the washer door latch
Less common than the latch itself, but possible if the code is intermittent or started after vibration, moving the washer, or previous repair work.
Quick check: Only after unplugging the washer, inspect the latch connection area if it is safely accessible without major disassembly.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Reset the washer and make sure the door is really closing cleanly
A brief control glitch or a door that is just barely not seated can throw the same code as a bad latch.
- Cancel the cycle if the controls respond.
- Unplug the washer for about 2 minutes.
- Open the door and remove any laundry, string, or detergent crust from the door opening and latch area using a damp cloth.
- Close the door firmly but do not slam it.
- Restore power and try a short cycle or rinse/spin start.
Next move: If the code clears and the washer starts normally, the problem was likely a bad door close or a temporary lock-state glitch. If E42 comes back right away, move to the door strike and alignment check.
What to conclude: You have ruled out the easiest no-parts fix first.
Stop if:
- The washer door is stuck locked with clothing inside and forcing it feels like it may break the handle or glass.
- You smell burning plastic or see heat damage around the latch area.
- Water is leaking from the door opening while you test.
Step 2: Inspect the washer door strike and door alignment
A damaged strike or sagging door can mimic a failed latch, and it is easy to miss unless you look straight at it.
- With the washer unplugged, inspect the washer door strike on the door itself for cracks, looseness, or wear.
- Check whether the door looks lower on the latch side than it should.
- Gently lift the open door by the handle side and feel for hinge play or sag.
- Tighten any accessible hinge screws that are obviously loose.
- Close the door slowly and watch whether the strike enters the latch opening centered and straight.
Next move: If tightening or realigning the door lets the washer start consistently, the latch was likely fine and the door was simply not meeting it correctly. If the strike looks damaged or the door still will not line up, the strike is the next likely fix. If the strike looks good and alignment is solid, the latch becomes the main suspect.
What to conclude: This separates a simple mechanical fit problem from an actual latch failure.
Step 3: Check for latch obstruction or visible damage
Soap residue, broken plastic, or a jammed latch opening can keep the lock from switching even when the door looks shut.
- Unplug the washer again.
- Use a flashlight to look into the washer door latch opening on the cabinet side.
- Remove loose lint or debris by hand or with a dry cloth.
- Look for broken plastic pieces, a crooked latch opening, scorch marks, or a strike fragment stuck inside.
- Close the door again and note whether the latch engagement feels crisp and repeatable or weak and inconsistent.
Next move: If clearing debris restores a normal close and the code stays gone, you likely had a simple obstruction. If the latch area is clean but engagement still feels weak or the code returns every time, plan on the washer door latch assembly as the likely repair.
Step 4: Confirm the most likely repair part before you buy
By this point you can usually narrow E42 to either the washer door strike or the washer door latch assembly without guessing at bigger parts.
- Choose the washer door strike if it is visibly cracked, loose, worn, or the door only works when lifted into position.
- Choose the washer door latch assembly if the strike looks good, the door lines up well, and E42 returns after reset and cleaning.
- If the code is intermittent and started after the washer was moved or repaired, inspect the latch wiring connection only if you can reach it safely after unplugging the washer.
- Do not buy a washer control board based on E42 alone unless a technician has already ruled out the door hardware and latch circuit.
Next move: If your inspection clearly points to one of those two parts, you can move ahead without shotgun-ordering multiple components. If you cannot tell whether the problem is the strike, latch, or wiring, it is time for a service diagnosis instead of guessing.
Step 5: Make the repair or call for service with a tight diagnosis
The last step is either replacing the clearly failed door part or handing the job off with enough detail to avoid wasted labor and wrong parts.
- Replace the washer door strike if it is broken or visibly out of shape.
- Replace the washer door latch assembly if the door closes squarely, the strike is sound, and E42 still returns.
- After the repair, run a short cycle and confirm the washer locks, starts, unlocks at the end, and no longer shows E42.
- If the new strike or latch does not solve it, stop there and schedule service for latch-circuit testing rather than moving straight to a control board.
A good result: If the washer starts and finishes normally, you have confirmed the fault and can put the machine back in service.
If not: If E42 remains after a confirmed good strike and latch, the problem is likely in the wiring or control-side sensing and needs meter-based diagnosis.
What to conclude: You either finish the repair cleanly or avoid wasting money on deeper electrical guesses.
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FAQ
What does E42 mean on an Electrolux washer?
It usually means the washer is not seeing the door lock switch change state correctly. In plain terms, the machine thinks the door lock system is not doing what it should.
Is E42 usually a bad control board?
No. Most of the time it is a door-closing issue, a damaged washer door strike, or a failing washer door latch assembly. A control board is not the first thing to suspect here.
Can I keep using the washer with an E42 code?
Usually no. The washer may refuse to start, may stop mid-process, or may leave the door lock behavior unreliable. It is better to fix the door-lock issue before regular use.
Why does the washer work only when I push on the door?
That usually points to alignment trouble or a worn washer door strike. The latch is only seeing the right position when you force the door into place.
What if I replaced the latch and still get E42?
If the door strike is good and the new latch is confirmed correct for the model, the next suspects are latch wiring, connector damage, or control-side sensing. That is the point where a meter-based service diagnosis makes sense.