Door will not latch
The door bounces back, will not catch, or only stays shut if you hold it.
Start here: Look for a broken dryer door strike, lint packed into the latch opening, or a door sitting crooked on the hinges.
Dryer door fault
Electrolux Dryer E42 Code
Direct answer: An Electrolux dryer E42 code usually means the dryer is not seeing a proper door-closed signal. Most of the time that comes down to a misaligned door, a damaged door strike or latch, or a failed dryer door switch.
Most likely: Start with the simple stuff: make sure the door is closing squarely, the strike is intact, and lint is not packed into the latch area. If the door feels normal but the code stays, the dryer door switch is the strongest part-failure suspect.
If the door has to be slammed, pops back open, or feels loose at the catch, stay on the latch side first. If the door closes firmly and the code still comes right back, move quickly to the switch check. Reality check: this is usually a small door-sensing problem, not a major dryer failure. Common wrong move: forcing the door harder until the strike or latch breaks.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a control board. On this code, the door hardware and door switch are far more common than an electronic failure.
If the door will not stay shutCheck the strike, latch opening, and hinge alignment before touching wiring.
If the door shuts normally but E42 remainsUnplug the dryer and inspect the dryer door switch and its mounting.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17
What E42 usually looks like on a dryer
Door latches but code stays on
The door feels shut and solid, but E42 returns right away and the dryer will not run.
Start here: That pattern fits a dryer door switch that is not changing state or is loose in its bracket.
Door has to be slammed
A light push does not register, but a hard shove sometimes clears the code.
Start here: Check for a worn strike, shifted latch, or switch actuator that is barely being pressed.
Code started after the door was forced
The problem began after the door was yanked open, slammed, or caught on laundry.
Start here: Inspect the dryer door strike, latch area, and switch mount for cracked plastic or a switch knocked out of position.
Most likely causes
1. Lint or debris blocking the latch area
Dryer lint packs into the catch opening and keeps the strike from seating fully, so the control still reads the door as open.
Quick check: Open the door and look into the latch opening with a flashlight. If you see packed lint or a stray fabric thread, clear it gently and try the door again.
2. Damaged dryer door strike or latch
If the strike is worn, cracked, or missing its shape, it may not push the switch far enough even though the door seems closed.
Quick check: Inspect the strike on the door edge and the latch opening on the cabinet. Look for chipped plastic, looseness, or shiny wear spots.
3. Door out of alignment from loose hinges or a sagging door
A door that sits low or twisted can miss the latch centerline and only partly engage the switch.
Quick check: Lift gently on the open door. Excess play, rubbing, or a crooked gap around the door points to hinge or alignment trouble.
4. Failed or loose dryer door switch
When the door closes normally but the code stays, the switch itself or its mounting is often the real fault.
Quick check: Unplug the dryer, access the switch area if practical, and look for a loose switch body, broken mount tabs, or disconnected wires.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm this is really a door-closing problem
E42 is tied to the dryer not seeing a proper door-closed signal, so you want to separate a bad latch feel from a hidden switch problem right away.
- Open and close the dryer door slowly a few times and pay attention to how it feels.
- Look for a solid latch feel versus a soft, mushy, or bounce-back close.
- Check whether the door sits even with the front panel or looks low on the latch side.
- If the dryer powers up, note whether the code appears immediately or only when you try to start a cycle.
Next move: If the door suddenly closes cleanly and the code clears, the issue may have been a minor obstruction or a door that was not fully shut. If the door still feels wrong or the code returns right away, keep going with the physical latch and switch checks.
What to conclude: A bad door feel points first to alignment or latch hardware. A normal door feel with a persistent code points more strongly to the dryer door switch.
Stop if:
- The door glass or inner door trim is cracked.
- The door is hanging loose enough that the hinge area may tear further.
- You smell burning plastic or see heat damage near the latch area.
Step 2: Clean and inspect the latch area first
This is the safest and most common fix. Packed lint, thread, or a small broken plastic fragment can keep the strike from fully engaging.
- Unplug the dryer.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the latch opening on the cabinet and the strike on the door edge.
- Remove loose lint by hand or with a soft brush or vacuum crevice tool.
- Wipe the area with a dry cloth or a cloth lightly dampened with mild soap and water, then dry it fully.
- Close the door again without slamming it and see whether the latch feel improves.
Next move: If the door now clicks shut normally and E42 is gone, the problem was blockage in the latch path. If the door still needs force or the code remains, inspect the strike, latch fit, and alignment more closely.
What to conclude: A blocked latch opening can mimic a bad switch. If cleaning changes nothing, the problem is more likely worn hardware, misalignment, or the switch itself.
Step 3: Check the dryer door strike and door alignment
A worn strike or sagging door is a very common reason the switch is only partly pressed. That gives you an E42 even though the door looks shut.
- Inspect the dryer door strike for cracks, flattening, looseness, or missing material.
- Check the gap around the closed door. A wider gap at one corner usually means the door is out of line.
- Open the door and lift gently at the outer edge to feel for hinge play.
- Tighten accessible hinge screws if they are obviously loose and the screw heads are in good shape.
- Close the door again and see whether it latches with a normal firm click using light pressure.
Next move: If tightening or realigning the door restores a normal latch and the code clears, the switch was likely fine and just was not being fully actuated. If the door still closes squarely but E42 remains, move to the door switch as the likely failed part.
Step 4: Inspect the dryer door switch and its mounting
Once the latch hardware checks out, the dryer door switch becomes the main failure point. A loose switch can act just like a bad one.
- Keep the dryer unplugged.
- Access the door switch area as your dryer design allows without forcing panels.
- Look for a switch body that has slipped out of its bracket, cracked mounting tabs, or loose wire terminals.
- Press the switch actuator by hand if accessible and feel for a crisp click rather than a weak or sticky movement.
- If you can safely identify the switch connector, make sure it is seated firmly and not heat-damaged.
Next move: If you find the switch loose and secure it properly, the dryer may read the door correctly again once reassembled. If the switch is mounted correctly but feels dead, sticky, or physically damaged, replacement is the most likely fix.
Step 5: Replace the failed door-sensing part or call for service
By this point you should know whether the problem is the strike, the alignment, or the switch. That keeps you from buying parts blindly.
- Replace the dryer door strike if it is visibly worn, cracked, or no longer lines up cleanly with the latch.
- Replace the dryer door switch if the door closes properly but the switch is damaged, loose beyond repair, or not responding.
- Reassemble the dryer fully before restoring power.
- Plug the dryer back in, close the door normally, and test a short cycle start.
- If E42 remains after a solid latch and a confirmed-good switch, stop and schedule service for deeper wiring or control diagnosis.
A good result: If the dryer starts normally and the code stays gone, you found the right fault.
If not: If the code persists after the latch and switch path checks out, the problem is beyond the usual homeowner fix and needs deeper electrical diagnosis.
What to conclude: Most E42 problems end with a latch-side fix or a dryer door switch replacement. If not, the remaining suspects are wiring damage or a less common control issue.
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FAQ
What does E42 mean on an Electrolux dryer?
It usually means the dryer control is not seeing the door as properly closed. The most common causes are a blocked latch area, a worn dryer door strike, a misaligned door, or a failed dryer door switch.
Can lint really cause an E42 code?
Yes. Packed lint or a stray thread in the latch opening can keep the strike from going in all the way. That is why a quick cleaning and visual check should come before parts.
Why does my dryer only work if I slam the door?
That usually means the strike or alignment is marginal, or the dryer door switch is barely being pressed. Slamming the door is a clue, not a fix, and it often breaks the latch parts completely.
Should I replace the control board for an E42 code?
Not first. On this fault, the door hardware and dryer door switch are much more common than a control failure. Rule those out before spending money on electronics.
Can I keep using the dryer if it sometimes clears the code?
It is better to fix it now. A door that needs extra force usually gets worse, and repeated slamming can crack the strike, damage the switch mount, or leave you with a door that will not latch at all.