One small shallow pothole
A single hole or worn spot less than a few inches deep, with solid driveway around it.
Start here: Start with cleaning out loose material and checking whether water regularly sits there.
Outdoor
Driveway Potholes
Direct answer: Most driveway potholes start where water sits, the surface opens up, and traffic keeps knocking loose material out of the same spot. Small, shallow potholes can often be patched, but potholes that return quickly usually point to a weak base or poor drainage under the driveway.
Most likely: The most likely causes are standing water, crumbling asphalt or concrete at the surface, and repeated freeze-thaw damage that has loosened material below the top layer.
Start by separating a simple surface pothole from a larger failure. If the hole is shallow and the surrounding driveway is firm, a patch may work. If the area feels soft, pumps water, keeps sinking, or has several nearby low spots, the problem is usually below the surface and a patch alone may not last.
Don’t start with: Do not start by filling every hole with patch material before checking depth, drainage, and whether the surrounding surface is still solid enough to support a repair.
Best first checkMeasure the pothole depth and look for standing water or soft edges after rain.
Common mistakePatching over loose debris or a wet hole, which usually leads to early failure.
Last reviewed: 2026-03-18
What kind of driveway pothole problem do you have?
Several potholes in the same area
Multiple holes, raveling, or crumbling in a low section or wheel path.
Start here: Start by looking for drainage problems and signs the base under the driveway has softened.
Pothole near the driveway edge
The edge is breaking away, often where tires run too close or water washes alongside it.
Start here: Start by checking whether the edge has lost support from erosion or runoff.
Patch failed and the hole came back
A previous repair loosened, sank, or broke apart after weather or traffic.
Start here: Start by checking whether the old patch was placed over wet, loose, or unsupported material.
Most likely causes
1. Standing water in a low spot
Water weakens the surface and the material underneath, especially where cars repeatedly pass over the same area.
Quick check: After rain, see whether water ponds in or around the pothole instead of draining away.
2. Loose or deteriorated surface material
Asphalt can ravel and concrete can break down at the top, leaving a cavity that grows with traffic.
Quick check: Scrape the edges lightly. If they crumble easily, the surrounding surface may still be too weak for a lasting patch.
3. Freeze-thaw damage
Water that gets into small cracks expands when it freezes, then leaves the area weaker as it thaws.
Quick check: Look for nearby cracking, flaking, or fresh breakaway around the hole after cold weather.
4. Failed support below the driveway surface
If the base has washed out, settled, or stayed wet, the top layer may keep collapsing even after patching.
Quick check: Press around the area with your foot. If it feels soft, hollow, or moves, the problem is likely deeper than the surface.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Check whether this is a simple surface pothole or a larger failure
A shallow isolated hole can often be repaired, but widespread softness or repeated sinking usually means the support below the driveway is failing.
- Look at the size of the damaged area, not just the deepest point.
- Measure the approximate depth of the pothole.
- Check whether the surrounding driveway is firm or whether it flexes, crumbles, or sounds hollow.
- Note whether there are nearby cracks, low spots, or edge washout in the same section.
Next move: If the pothole is shallow and the surrounding surface is solid, move on to cleaning and drainage checks before deciding on a patch. If the area is soft, spreading, or obviously settling, skip patching for now and plan for a larger repair assessment.
What to conclude: A stable surrounding surface supports a patch. A weak surrounding surface usually means the pothole is a symptom, not the whole problem.
Stop if:
- The driveway surface shifts underfoot or feels unsafe to walk on.
- You find a large hollow area, major settlement, or a broad section breaking apart.
- The pothole is deep enough to create a trip hazard or vehicle damage risk right now.
Step 2: Check for water and drainage problems first
Water is one of the main reasons potholes form and return, so it makes sense to confirm that branch before using repair material.
- Inspect the pothole and nearby driveway after rain or snowmelt if possible.
- Look for ponding water, runoff crossing the driveway, or downspout discharge aimed toward the damaged area.
- Check the driveway edge for soil erosion, washout, or a channel where water regularly runs.
- If debris is blocking the drainage path, clear leaves, mud, and loose gravel so water can move away.
Next move: If you find and correct a simple drainage issue, the area may stay drier and a later patch has a better chance of holding. If no obvious water source is present, continue to the surface condition check.
What to conclude: A pothole that stays wet or sits in a low spot usually needs both drainage correction and surface repair. A dry area with firm support points more toward isolated surface breakdown.
Step 3: Remove loose material and test the edges
Patch material only holds if it bonds to solid surrounding material. Loose edges are a common reason repairs fail early.
- Sweep out loose stones, dirt, and broken surface material with a stiff push broom.
- Use a hand tool carefully to lift out pieces that are already detached or crumbling freely.
- Do not leave mud, standing water, or soft debris in the hole.
- Check whether the remaining edges feel firm or whether they continue to break away with light pressure.
Next move: If you reach clean, solid edges and a firm bottom, the pothole may be a good candidate for patching. If the edges keep crumbling or the bottom stays soft, a simple patch is less likely to last.
Step 4: Decide whether patching is reasonable now
This is the point where diagnosis supports a repair branch. A small, dry, stable pothole can often be patched, while a broad failed section usually needs more than filler.
- Choose the patch branch only if the pothole is relatively small, the surrounding driveway is solid, and the area is dry enough for the product you plan to use.
- For asphalt driveways, consider asphalt driveway patch material only after the hole is clean and the base feels firm.
- For concrete driveways, treat small surface breakouts differently from full-depth holes; a concrete driveway patch material may help only when the surrounding concrete is still sound.
- Do not rely on crack filler alone for a true pothole; use it only for nearby narrow cracks if the surface is otherwise stable.
Next move: If the conditions support a patch, you can move ahead with a targeted repair instead of guessing at larger work. If the area is too wet, too deep, too soft, or too widespread, hold off and get a larger repair plan.
Step 5: Recheck the area after the next rain and after traffic
A repair that looks fine on day one can still fail if water keeps collecting or the surrounding surface keeps breaking down.
- Watch whether water still ponds in the repaired or damaged area after the next rain.
- Look for fresh edge crumbling, sinking, or separation around the repair.
- Check whether vehicle tires are running over an unsupported edge or low shoulder.
- If the area stays dry and stable, monitor it through a few weather cycles before doing more work.
A good result: If the area stays dry and the repair remains level, you likely addressed the main problem.
If not: If the hole reopens, sinks, or stays wet, the driveway likely needs base correction, drainage work, or a larger resurfacing repair.
What to conclude: Short-term success followed by quick failure usually points to an underlying support or water problem rather than bad luck with the patch itself.
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FAQ
Why do driveway potholes keep coming back?
Usually because the real problem is still there. The most common reasons are standing water, a weak or washed-out base under the surface, or patching over loose and wet material. If the hole returns quickly, look harder at drainage and support below the surface.
Can I patch a driveway pothole myself?
Often yes, if it is a small, localized pothole and the surrounding driveway is still solid. DIY is less likely to hold when the area is soft, keeps sinking, or covers a broad section of the driveway.
Is a pothole the same as a crack?
No. A crack is a split in the surface, while a pothole is a cavity where material has already broken away. Small nearby cracks may matter because they let water in, but a true pothole usually needs more than crack filler alone.
Should I patch the pothole before fixing drainage?
No. If water still collects there, the patch is much more likely to fail. Clear simple blockages and correct obvious runoff problems first, then patch once the area is dry and stable enough for repair.
How do I know if the driveway needs more than a patch?
If the area feels soft, sounds hollow, pumps water, keeps settling, or has several potholes and low spots together, the problem is probably below the surface. In that case, a patch may only be temporary and a larger repair is usually the better path.