Sprays from a middle seam
Water jets out of a lap joint or screw hole halfway down the wall while the rest of the downspout is full and noisy.
Start here: Suspect a clog below that point, especially in the lower elbow or extension.
Downspouts / Extensions
Downspout Water Shoots Out Sideways
Direct answer: If water shoots out sideways from a downspout, the usual cause is a blockage below that spot or a joint that has opened up under pressure. Start by finding exactly where the spray starts, then check for a clogged elbow, crushed section, or blocked extension before you buy anything.
Most likely: Most often, the downspout is backing up because the lower elbow, extension, or buried outlet is restricted, so water blows out at the first weak seam or hole.
Watch it during a steady rain or run water from a hose into the gutter if you can do it safely from the ground. A clean downspout usually carries water straight down and out. When it sprays sideways, that leak point is often just the messenger. Reality check: the hole you see is not always the real problem. Common wrong move: replacing the visible elbow when the buried outlet is the part that is actually plugged.
Don’t start with: Do not start by caulking the leak shut. If the downspout is still blocked, the water will just force its way out somewhere else.
Spray starts at a seam or elbowLook for backup below that joint before replacing the piece.
Spray comes from a split or punctureCheck for a crushed section or ice damage, then replace only the damaged downspout part.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-05
What the sideways spray pattern usually points to
Shoots out near the bottom elbow
The upper downspout looks normal, but water blows out where the downspout turns toward the extension or splash area.
Start here: Check the bottom elbow and the first few feet of extension for packed leaves, roof grit, or a crushed section.
Leaks only in heavy rain
Light rain drains fine, but a hard storm makes water spray from seams or pinholes.
Start here: Look for a partial blockage or an undersized outlet path that cannot keep up under peak flow.
Sprays from a split in the metal or plastic
Water comes out of a visible crack, puncture, or burst seam even when the outlet is partly flowing.
Start here: Inspect for freeze damage, impact damage, or a section that has been bent flat enough to trap debris.
Most likely causes
1. Clog in the lower elbow or extension
This is the most common reason. Water stacks up behind the clog and escapes at the first loose seam, screw hole, or split above it.
Quick check: Disconnect the extension or bottom elbow if accessible and see whether trapped water and debris dump out immediately.
2. Buried outlet or pop-up emitter restriction
If the downspout feeds underground, the visible downspout may look like the problem even though the blockage is farther out in the buried run.
Quick check: During rain, check whether little or no water is exiting at the discharge point while the downspout is spraying near the house.
3. Separated or loose downspout joint
A joint that has slipped apart can leak under normal flow, and it will spray hard if there is even a mild backup below it.
Quick check: Look for gaps, missing screws, twisted sections, or a joint that moves when you press it by hand.
4. Crushed, split, or freeze-damaged downspout section
A flattened sidewall or burst seam narrows the passage and creates its own choke point, then leaks at the damaged area.
Quick check: Sight down the run for dents, impact marks, bulged seams, or a section that no longer holds its shape.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Find the exact spot where the spray begins
You need to separate a true damaged section from a backup that is forcing water out at a weak point.
- Watch the downspout during rain from the ground, or run a garden hose into the gutter outlet only if you can do it safely without climbing in wet conditions.
- Mark the highest point where water first sprays out sideways.
- Listen for gurgling or a hollow thumping sound below that spot, which often means water is stacking up behind a blockage.
- Check whether the spray is coming from a seam, screw hole, elbow joint, or a visible crack in the downspout wall.
Next move: If you can identify the first leak point, you can focus on the section below it instead of guessing at the whole run. If you cannot safely observe the flow or the leak is high above reach, wait for dry conditions or call a gutter or drainage pro.
What to conclude: A leak at a seam usually points to pressure from a restriction below. A leak from a clean split or puncture often means physical damage at that exact section.
Stop if:
- The downspout is loose enough to pull away from the wall.
- You would need to work from a high ladder in rain or wind.
- Water is already entering the siding, soffit, or foundation area.
Step 2: Open the easiest downstream section first
The fastest win is usually at the bottom, where leaves, shingle grit, and mulch collect in the elbow or extension.
- If there is a removable downspout extension, disconnect it at the nearest joint to the house.
- Check the extension and bottom elbow for packed debris, mud, roof granules, or a crushed section.
- Flush the removed piece with a hose from both directions until water runs clear.
- If the extension is flexible, straighten it out and look for a kink that closes when water weight hits it.
Next move: If water now runs straight out the bottom without spraying from the side, the blockage was in the extension or lower elbow. If the downspout still backs up or sprays with the extension removed, the restriction is higher in the downspout or farther out in a buried outlet.
What to conclude: A clogged lower elbow or extension is the most likely cause when the spray is near the bottom and improves as soon as you open that section.
Step 3: Check for a buried outlet problem before replacing visible parts
A buried drain can make a perfectly decent downspout spray sideways because the water has nowhere to go.
- If the downspout connects underground, inspect the discharge point or pop-up emitter during flow.
- Look for little or no discharge, bubbling near the house, or water surfacing along the buried run.
- Temporarily disconnect the downspout from the underground connector and let it discharge above ground away from the foundation if your site allows it.
- Run water again and see whether the sideways spray stops once the buried line is bypassed.
Next move: If the spray stops when the buried line is bypassed, the visible downspout is not the main problem and the blockage is in the buried outlet path. If it still sprays with the underground line disconnected, stay on the downspout itself and inspect the damaged or blocked section more closely.
Step 4: Repair the joint if the path is clear but the connection is open
Once you know water can flow freely, a loose joint becomes a straightforward repair instead of a pressure problem waiting to move elsewhere.
- With the downspout empty, press the leaking joint together and check whether the pieces are out of round or simply slipped apart.
- Realign the elbow or connector so the crimped end points with the flow direction and the pieces nest fully.
- Re-secure the joint with appropriate exterior fasteners if the original connection has loosened.
- Replace a connector or elbow only if it is bent, split, or will not stay aligned after reassembly.
Next move: If the joint stays tight and water runs without side spray, the repair is complete. If the joint keeps opening or the section is misshapen, replace the damaged downspout piece rather than trying to force it.
Step 5: Replace the damaged section or move to the correct drainage repair
At this point you should know whether the fix is a local downspout part or a downstream drainage problem.
- Replace the specific damaged part if you found a split downspout elbow, cracked connector, crushed extension, or deformed downspout section that still leaks after the path is cleared.
- If the downspout works only when disconnected from the underground line, treat the buried outlet as the next repair instead of buying more visible downspout parts.
- After repair, run water long enough to confirm it exits freely and no seams spray under full flow.
- Reattach any extension so water discharges away from the foundation and does not pond back toward the house.
A good result: A successful repair gives you a steady downward flow with no side spray, no gurgling backup, and no water collecting at the wall base.
If not: If water still sprays after the damaged section is replaced and the visible path is clear, the remaining problem is usually in the gutter outlet above or the buried drainage below.
What to conclude: Finish the local repair when the fault is visible and confirmed. If the underground path is the choke point, shift to that drainage problem next.
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FAQ
Why does my downspout only spray sideways in heavy rain?
That usually means a partial blockage. Light flow can sneak through, but heavy flow builds pressure and forces water out at a seam, screw hole, or split.
Can I just seal the leaking seam with caulk?
Not until you know the downspout is draining freely. If there is still a clog below the leak, sealing the seam just moves the blowout to another joint or into the wall area.
Is the problem usually in the gutter or in the downspout?
When water shoots out sideways from the downspout itself, the first suspect is usually below that spot: a clogged elbow, extension, or buried outlet. A packed gutter outlet above is possible, but less common if the spray is low on the run.
How do I know if the buried drain is the real problem?
Disconnect the downspout from the underground connector if you can do it safely and let it discharge above ground away from the house. If the sideways spray stops, the buried line is restricted.
Should I replace the whole downspout?
Usually no. Most fixes are a cleaned-out elbow or extension, a re-secured joint, or one damaged section. Replace the whole run only if multiple sections are crushed, split, or badly misaligned.
Can freezing weather make a downspout spray from the side?
Yes. Ice can split an elbow or seam, and a section that froze full may stay slightly deformed afterward. Once thawed, that damaged spot often becomes the new leak point under normal rain.