Door alignment and sticking

Door Rubs at Bottom? Check Hinge Sag Before Cutting

If a door rubs at the bottom, start by separating hinge sag from swelling, sweep drag, or threshold contact. A latch-side bottom scrape usually points to the top hinge before the door needs trimming.

Most of the time, a loose top hinge lets the latch-side bottom corner drop just enough to scrape.

Move the door slowly, mark the first rub point, then match the fix to the wear pattern.

Don’t start with: Do not plane or cut the slab until the hinge screws hold, the door is dry, and the sweep or threshold is ruled out.

Latch-side bottom corner scrapes first:inspect the top hinge and upper reveal before touching the bottom edge.
Whole bottom edge drags after rain:look for swelling, a folded sweep, or a high threshold before trimming.

Do this first

  • Support a heavy door before removing or backing out more than one hinge screw.
  • Keep fingers clear of the hinge side and bottom edge while testing the swing.
  • Wear eye protection when driving longer screws or drilling a stripped hinge hole.
  • Stop if the door drops, the hinge stile splits, or the jamb moves while you work.
  • Stop if the threshold, sill, or bottom rail feels soft, wet, or rotten.
  • Call a door pro or finish carpenter if the frame is cracked, badly out of square, or pulling away from the wall.
Last reviewed: 2026-07-04

One-minute rub sorter

Bottom latch-side corner hits first?

Top hinge sag moves to the front. Inspect the top hinge screws and the reveal above the latch side.

Whole bottom edge drags?

Look at swelling, a high threshold, new flooring, or a sweep that is taking the hit.

Worse after rain or humidity?

Treat moisture and a swollen bottom edge as the better clue before any permanent trimming.

Only scrapes in the last few inches?

Watch the sweep and threshold. A folded sweep can drag even when the slab clears.

Latch, deadbolt, and gaps are all off?

The opening may be moving. Stop before cutting the door and plan for frame diagnosis.

See where the door is really rubbing

The mark tells you whether hinge sag, swelling, or bottom hardware is to blame. Use the photos to separate a slab scrape from a sweep or threshold drag.

Door rubbing at bottom with hinge side visible and scuffed bottom corner near threshold
Start with the whole doorway. A dropped latch-side corner plus uneven reveal points to hinge sag before trimming.
Loose top hinge screws on door jamb causing door to rub at bottom
A worn or loose top hinge can let the slab settle. Tighten gently and repair stripped holes before you blame the door bottom.
Door sweep folded against threshold causing bottom drag
If the sweep is the contact point, adjust or replace the sweep. Cutting the slab would not solve this rub.

Before you buy anything

Before you buy parts, write down the door type and match the exact hinge size, screw style, sweep profile, and threshold shape. If an exterior door uses a branded sweep system, use the model label or manufacturer diagram before ordering.

Let the rub mark sort the job

The first scrape matters more than the loudest scrape. A dropped corner, a broad scuff, and a sweep that curls under all lead to different repairs.

  • Open the door slowly while watching the bottom latch-side corner, the threshold, and the sweep.
  • Mark the first contact with painter tape or a light pencil line.
  • Compare the top reveal. A wider gap above the latch side usually means the slab has sagged.
  • Slide a sheet of paper under the bottom edge to feel where it pinches first.
What you seeWhat it usually meansNext move
Latch-side bottom corner hits firstTop hinge sag or loose hinge screwsSnug the hinge screws and repair stripped holes.
Broad scuff across the bottomSwelling, high threshold, new flooring, or sweep contactInspect moisture and bottom hardware before cutting.
Sweep folds under near the latchDoor sweep is draggingAdjust or replace the sweep.
Gaps wedge at the top and sideDoor or frame is out of squareStop if the frame is cracked, loose, or rotten.

What not to do first

Cutting the bottom is the last permanent move, not the first one. Most bottom rubs have a simpler clue above or below the slab.

  • Do not plane the door because it squeaks at the threshold.
  • Do not keep forcing the door shut; that chews up hinges, sweeps, and finish.
  • Do not replace hinges just because screws are loose; repair the screw hold first.
  • Do not raise an adjustable threshold until you know the sweep is not folded under.
  • Do not ignore wet, dark, or soft wood at the bottom rail or threshold.

Start with the top hinge and reveal

A sagging slab usually shows up as a latch-side bottom scrape and a crooked gap above the door. Work on one hinge at a time so the door stays controlled.

  • With the door open, lift the handle side gently. Movement at the hinge leaf means the screw hold or hinge is loose.
  • Snug the top hinge screws by hand first. If a screw spins, the wood hole needs repair or a longer screw that reaches solid framing.
  • Replace one short screw at the top hinge with a longer door hinge screw only when it lines up with framing and pulls the hinge leaf flat.
  • Stop cranking if the hinge leaf twists, the jamb splits, or the door drops when you lift it.
  • After each adjustment, close the door once and look for fresh scuffing at the bottom corner.

Do not miss the sweep, threshold, or flooring

A bottom rub is not always the slab. The sweep, threshold, or a new floor edge can be the only part touching.

  • Watch the last few inches of swing from floor level. A sweep that rolls under will drag even when the slab clears.
  • Vacuum grit from the threshold track and wipe the sill dry before judging the fit.
  • Look for a loose threshold screw, lifted metal edge, carpet ridge, rug, or transition strip in the swing path.
  • If the sweep is torn, hardened, or wavy, price a matching sweep instead of trimming the door.
  • If the threshold or floor has moved because the subfloor is soft, stop there and treat it as damage, not adjustment.

Moisture and frame movement change the repair

When the rub comes and goes with weather, the door may be swelling. When the latch and deadbolt are off at the same time, the opening may be moving.

  • Look at the bottom edge for peeling finish, raised grain, dark staining, or a fuzzy wood edge.
  • Let a damp wood door dry before any permanent cutting.
  • Compare both side gaps and the top gap. Several tight gaps at once point more toward swelling than a single loose hinge.
  • Call a door pro or finish carpenter if the frame is cracked, the sill is soft, or the reveal is badly wedge-shaped.
  • Only consider careful trimming after the slab is dry, the hinges hold, and the bottom hardware is not the rub point.

Tools You May Need

These tools are for visible checks and light adjustment. They are not a reason to fight a heavy door or open a damaged frame.

Screwdriver set for door rubs at bottom

Screwdriver set

Helps when: Snugs hinge screws, sweep screws, and threshold screws without immediately reaching for a drill.

Skip it when: Skip it when the door is heavy and unsupported, the hinge area is split, or screw heads are badly stripped.

Compare screwdriver sets on Amazon
Drill driver and bit set for door rubs at bottom

Drill driver and bit set

Helps when: Installs a replacement hinge screw cleanly after the rub pattern and loose screw point to hinge sag.

Skip it when: Skip it when the jamb is split, the hinge mortise is damaged, or you would be drilling without supporting a heavy slab.

Compare drill driver bit sets on Amazon
Painter tape and pencil for door rubs at bottom

Painter tape and pencil

Helps when: Marks the first rub point so you can separate slab contact from sweep or threshold drag.

Skip it when: Skip it when the door drops, the frame is damaged, or the rub is already tied to a clear safety stop.

Compare marking supplies on Amazon
Inspection flashlight for door rubs at bottom

Inspection flashlight

Helps when: Shows fresh scuffs under the door, folded sweep edges, loose threshold screws, and dark moisture marks.

Skip it when: Skip deeper work if better light shows rot, a cracked jamb, or a threshold that moves under pressure.

Compare inspection flashlights on Amazon

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Replacement Parts

Parts belong after the rub pattern points to a failed part. Match the exact size and shape; door hardware that looks close can still sit wrong.

Door hinge screws for door rubs at bottom

Door hinge screws

Helps when: The top hinge screw spins, is missing, or is too short to pull the hinge leaf tight against the jamb.

Skip it when: Skip it when the reveal is even and the sweep, threshold, or moisture pattern explains the bottom rub.

Compare door hinge screws on Amazon
Door hinge for door rubs at bottom

Door hinge

Helps when: The hinge leaf is bent, the pin is worn, or the hinge will not hold alignment after screw repair.

Skip it when: Skip it when only the screw holes are stripped and the hinge leaf still sits flat and square.

Compare door hinges on Amazon
Exterior door sweep for door rubs at bottom

Exterior door sweep

Helps when: The sweep is torn, hardened, folded under, or clearly dragging while the door slab clears the threshold.

Skip it when: Skip it when the slab itself scrapes after the sweep is held clear, or the door has no sweep.

Compare exterior door sweeps on Amazon

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FAQ

Why does my door rub at the bottom on the latch side?

That usually points to hinge sag. The top hinge loses hold, the slab drops slightly, and the bottom latch-side corner catches before the rest of the door.

Should I shave the bottom of the door?

Only after the door is dry, the hinges hold, and the sweep or threshold is not the contact point. Cutting too early can leave a permanent gap when the real issue was sag or swelling.

Can humidity really make a door rub at the bottom?

Yes. Wood doors can swell enough to tighten in the opening, especially after rain or during humid seasons. If the rub comes and goes with weather, look for moisture marks and raised grain before trimming.

What if the door only rubs when it is almost closed?

That often means the threshold or door sweep is catching near the end of the swing. Watch from floor level during the last few inches and see whether the sweep folds under.

How do I know if the sweep is dragging instead of the door?

The wear will be on the rubber or vinyl sweep, and the slab edge may clear the threshold. If holding the sweep clear stops the drag, replace or adjust the sweep instead of cutting the door.

Do longer hinge screws always fix a door rubbing at the bottom?

No. Longer screws help only when the top hinge has lost hold and the screw can bite solid framing. They will not fix swelling, a bent sweep, a high threshold, or a racked frame.

When should I replace a hinge instead of just tightening screws?

Replace the hinge if the leaf is bent, the pin is worn, or the hinge will not hold alignment after the screw holes are repaired. If the hinge is flat and sound, the screw hold may be the only failure.

What if tightening the hinges helps, but the door still drags a little?

You may have fixed part of the sag while leaving a second issue. Look again at the sweep, threshold, bottom edge, and reveal before making any permanent cut.

When should I call a pro for a bottom-rubbing door?

Call a door pro or finish carpenter if the frame is cracked, the sill or threshold is soft, the door drops while you handle it, or the latch, deadbolt, and bottom edge are all out of line.

How this guide was built

Repair Riot built this page from visible door clues: rub mark, reveal, hinge movement, sweep contact, moisture marks, and frame damage. The source links support weatherstripping and moisture-control context; the diagnostic order is original Repair Riot guidance.