Rubs at the top latch corner
The top corner opposite the hinges catches first, and the reveal around the door looks tighter there than elsewhere.
Start here: Go straight to hinge screw and sag checks.
Direct answer: If your door is rubbing at the top, the most common cause is a slight sag at the hinge side or a door slab that has swollen and shifted tighter in the opening. Start by finding exactly where it rubs, then tighten and inspect the hinges before you sand, plane, or replace anything.
Most likely: Loose top-hinge screws or a door that has dropped slightly in the frame are the first things to check.
Look at the rub pattern first. A tight spot near the top latch side usually points to hinge sag. Rubbing across most of the top edge leans more toward swelling or frame movement. Reality check: a door can be off by just a little and still scrape hard every time it closes. Common wrong move: cranking longer screws into stripped holes without checking whether the hinge is actually loose in solid wood.
Don’t start with: Don’t start by shaving the top edge. That often hides the real alignment problem and can leave a bigger gap later.
The top corner opposite the hinges catches first, and the reveal around the door looks tighter there than elsewhere.
Start here: Go straight to hinge screw and sag checks.
The door drags along a wide section of the head jamb instead of one small corner.
Start here: Check for swelling, paint buildup, or frame movement before adjusting hardware.
The door worked before, then got tight during wet or muggy conditions.
Start here: Look for moisture swelling and compare the gap on a drier day.
You have to lift, shove, or pull the door to get it to catch.
Start here: Treat it as an alignment problem first, not a latch problem.
This is the most common reason a door drops just enough to rub at the top latch side.
Quick check: Open the door partway and try lifting on the handle side. If you feel play at the hinges or see the top hinge move, the screws need attention.
If the screws are tight but the door still hangs low, the hinge knuckles or leaves may be worn, bent, or pulled out of alignment.
Quick check: Look for uneven gaps, hinge leaves that do not sit flat, or a door that rises slightly when you push it closed.
A wood door or heavily painted edge can tighten up across the top, especially after humidity swings.
Quick check: Look for fresh scuff marks across a broad section of the top edge and compare the fit on dry versus damp days.
If the jamb has moved, hinge tightening may help only a little or not at all.
Quick check: Stand back and compare the reveal around all sides. If the head gap changes a lot from one side to the other, the opening may be out of square.
You need to separate a hinge-sag problem from a swelling or frame problem. The wear pattern tells you which way to go.
Next move: You now know whether to focus on hinges, swelling, or a shifted frame. If you cannot see the contact point, put a light pencil mark along the top edge, close the door once, and look for the rubbed-off section.
What to conclude: A corner rub usually means sag. A broad rub usually means swelling, buildup, or frame movement.
A loose top hinge is the fastest, safest fix and the most common cause of top rubbing.
Next move: If the rubbing improves or stops, the door was sagging at the hinge side. If the screws are tight and the rub pattern does not change, move on to checking hinge condition and overall alignment.
What to conclude: A screw that will not tighten usually means the hole is stripped or the hinge is no longer holding the door in position.
When tightening does not solve it, the next likely issue is hinge wear or a hinge leaf that is no longer pulling the door into the right position.
Next move: If you find a bent or worn hinge and correct it, the top edge should clear the frame more evenly. If the hinges look sound and the door still rubs broadly at the top, check for swelling or frame movement next.
If the whole top edge is tight, hardware may not be the main problem. Wood movement and finish buildup are common lookalikes.
Next move: If the rubbing eases as conditions dry out, the main issue is likely seasonal swelling rather than failed hardware. If the door stays tight in the same pattern even in dry conditions, the opening or hinges likely need correction.
By this point, you should know whether this is a hinge repair, a stripped-screw repair, or a bigger opening problem that should not be hidden with trimming.
A good result: The door should swing freely, clear the top edge, and latch without lifting or shoulder-checking it.
If not: If the door still rubs after hinge correction and the frame reveal is uneven, the problem is beyond a simple door-hardware fix.
What to conclude: A lasting fix comes from correcting the source of the misalignment, not just removing material until the door clears.
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That usually means the door has sagged slightly on the hinge side. The top latch corner is the first place it shows up. Start by tightening and inspecting the top door hinge.
Usually no. If the real problem is loose hinges or a shifted jamb, trimming the door just masks it. Fix the alignment first, then only remove material if you have confirmed the door itself is oversized or seasonally swollen.
Yes, especially with wood doors. In damp weather the slab can swell enough to tighten across the top edge. If the problem comes and goes with weather, do not rush into cutting the door.
That points to stripped screw holes or damaged wood at the hinge area. If the surrounding wood is still solid, the screw hold can often be repaired. If the wood is split, soft, or crumbling, the jamb repair is bigger than a simple screw swap.
Because the whole door slab has shifted in the opening. When the top edge binds, the latch side usually drops or moves sideways too, so the strike no longer lines up cleanly.
Most of the time it starts as a hinge or screw issue, not a bad door slab. If the gaps around the door are badly uneven or the trim and wall are moving too, then the frame or opening is more likely involved.