Water still sitting in the drum
You open the door area or look through the glass and see standing water after the cycle should have drained.
Start here: Start with the filter cleanout and be ready to catch water.
Washer not draining
Bosch Washer E18 F18 Error
Direct answer: A Bosch washer E18 or F18 error usually means the machine cannot drain water out in the time it expects. Most of the time the cause is a clogged washer drain pump filter, debris in the pump area, or a kinked washer drain hose.
Most likely: Start with the drain filter and the short drain path right around the pump. Coins, lint, hair pins, and small clothing items are far more common than a bad control problem.
If the drum still has water in it, work slowly and expect a mess when you open the filter area. Reality check: a single coin or baby sock can stop a washer cold. Common wrong move: replacing the pump before checking the filter cavity and drain hose.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering electronics or tearing the washer apart. These codes are usually a blockage problem first.
If you hear the pump humming but water barely moves,look for a clog in the filter, pump inlet, or drain hose before buying parts.
If the washer is quiet during drain and the filter area is clear,the washer drain pump itself becomes a much stronger suspect.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17
What E18 and F18 usually look like on a Bosch washer
Pump hums or buzzes but little comes out
You hear a low motor sound during drain, but the water leaves very slowly or not at all.
Start here: Check for debris jammed in the pump impeller or a blockage in the washer drain hose.
No drain sound at all
The cycle stops on E18 or F18 and you do not hear the usual drain pump sound.
Start here: After checking for a simple clog, suspect a failed washer drain pump or a wiring issue.
It drains sometimes, then throws the code again
One load finishes, the next one stalls, or the machine drains only with small loads.
Start here: Look for a partial clog, a drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe, or a weak pump that is starting to fail.
Most likely causes
1. Clogged washer drain pump filter
This is the most common cause. Small debris collects in the filter and slows the water enough to trigger the code.
Quick check: Open the lower access area, drain the water carefully, and inspect the filter for lint, coins, hair pins, and fabric.
2. Debris jammed in the washer drain pump impeller
If the filter is dirty or a small item got past it, the pump may hum without moving much water.
Quick check: With power disconnected and the filter removed, look into the pump cavity for an impeller blocked by string, elastic, or hard debris.
3. Kinked or restricted washer drain hose
A crushed hose behind the machine or a clog at the hose outlet can make the washer drain too slowly.
Quick check: Pull the washer forward enough to inspect the full hose path and check the hose end for lint sludge or a sock.
4. Failing washer drain pump
When the filter and hose are clear but the pump is silent, intermittent, or weak, the pump itself is a likely failure.
Quick check: Listen during drain. A silent pump or a rough grinding pump with a clear drain path points toward pump failure.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Confirm it is a drain problem and remove the water safely
E18 and F18 are drain-time errors, but you want to confirm there is actually water trapped in the machine before opening anything.
- Cancel the cycle and unplug the washer.
- Look through the door glass or carefully crack the door only if the machine has already released the lock and there is no water level against the opening.
- Place towels and a shallow pan at the lower front access area.
- Open the drain filter access and drain water slowly if your washer has a small drain tube; if not, loosen the filter cap a little at a time to control the spill.
Next move: Once the water is out, you can inspect the drain path without guessing. If the door will not unlock and the drum is still full, keep the washer unplugged and continue draining through the filter area as carefully as you can.
What to conclude: Standing water confirms the washer is not draining properly, not just throwing a random code.
Stop if:
- Water is pouring out faster than you can contain it.
- The access cover or filter cap is stuck and feels like it may break.
- You see damaged wiring, scorch marks, or signs of overheating near the lower front area.
Step 2: Clean the washer drain pump filter completely
A partly blocked filter is the most common reason these codes show up, and a quick rinse is often not enough.
- Remove the washer drain pump filter fully.
- Clear out coins, lint, buttons, pet hair, and any sludge packed into the screen and cap.
- Wipe the filter housing and sealing surface with a damp cloth.
- Rinse the filter with warm water and mild soap if needed, then reinstall it snugly without cross-threading.
Next move: Run a drain or rinse-and-spin cycle. If the washer drains normally and the code stays gone, the clog was the problem. If the code returns or the washer still drains slowly, move to the pump cavity and hose checks.
What to conclude: A dirty filter was either the whole problem or a clue that more debris may be sitting deeper in the drain path.
Step 3: Check the pump cavity and impeller for a jam
When the filter is out, you can usually see whether the pump is blocked by string, elastic, or a small hard object.
- Keep the washer unplugged.
- With the filter removed, look into the pump cavity using a flashlight.
- Feel carefully for debris around the impeller area and remove anything wrapped around it.
- Turn the impeller gently with a fingertip or suitable non-sharp tool. It should move with some resistance, not feel locked solid.
- If the impeller blades are broken, badly loose, or the pump feels seized, note that for the parts decision later.
Next move: If you remove a jam and the washer drains normally on the next test cycle, you found the cause. If the cavity is clear and the impeller is damaged, seized, or the pump still only hums, the washer drain pump is the likely repair.
Step 4: Inspect the washer drain hose and the house drain connection
A clear filter does not help if the hose is kinked, packed with lint, or shoved too deep into the standpipe.
- Pull the washer forward enough to inspect the full washer drain hose from the pump outlet to the house drain.
- Straighten any sharp kinks or crushed spots.
- Disconnect the hose from the standpipe or sink drain connection and inspect the hose end for lint buildup or a lodged clothing item.
- If needed, remove the hose from the washer side and flush it with water into a bucket to confirm it is open.
- Reinstall the hose without sharp bends and without sealing it airtight into the standpipe.
Next move: If the washer now drains strongly and finishes a cycle, the restriction was in the hose or drain connection. If the hose is clear and routing is correct but the washer still will not drain, the pump is the strongest remaining suspect.
Step 5: Test one final drain cycle and decide on the repair
By this point you have separated a simple clog from a likely pump failure and can act without guess-buying.
- Reassemble the filter and hose connections securely.
- Plug the washer back in and run a drain, rinse-and-spin, or short cycle with no laundry inside.
- Listen for the pump: a healthy pump has a steady drain sound and moves water out quickly.
- If the washer drains well, check for leaks around the filter cap and hose connections.
- If the drain path is clear but the pump is silent, only hums, or drains very weakly, replace the washer drain pump.
- If the washer still shows E18 or F18 after a confirmed clear drain path and a new pump is not an obvious next step, schedule service for deeper electrical diagnosis.
A good result: No code, no standing water, and no leaks means the repair is done.
If not: If the code returns with a clear filter, clear hose, and poor pump performance, replace the washer drain pump. If pump operation is inconsistent or absent and you are not comfortable checking wiring, call a pro.
What to conclude: A successful test confirms a blockage fix. A failed test after the drain path is cleared points strongly to pump failure rather than a random error.
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FAQ
What does E18 or F18 mean on a Bosch washer?
It usually means the washer is not draining water out fast enough. The most common causes are a clogged washer drain pump filter, debris in the pump, or a restricted washer drain hose.
Is E18 the same as F18?
For practical troubleshooting, yes. Both point you toward a drain problem first, so start with standing water, the filter, the pump cavity, and the drain hose.
Can I just reset the washer and keep using it?
You can try unplugging it for a few minutes, but if water is still in the drum or the code comes back, a reset will not fix the blockage or weak pump causing the problem.
Why does my washer hum but not drain?
That usually means the washer drain pump is trying to run but something is blocking the impeller or the pump is failing mechanically. Check the filter and pump cavity before replacing the pump.
Should I replace the pump right away?
Usually no. A clogged filter or hose is more common than a bad pump. Replace the washer drain pump only after you confirm the filter and hose are clear and the pump is still silent, seized, or too weak to move water.
Can a house drain problem cause this code?
Yes. If the standpipe or sink drain is backing up, the washer may not be able to discharge water properly. In that case the washer may be fine and the drain line needs attention.