No water enters at all
You start a cycle, hear a click or faint hum, but the tub stays dry and the LF code appears.
Start here: Check that both wall faucets are fully open and that the washer fill hoses are not kinked or crushed behind the machine.
Washer long fill problem
Amana Washer LF Code
Direct answer: An LF code on an Amana washer usually means the washer is not getting enough water, fast enough. Most of the time the trouble is outside the machine: a partly closed supply faucet, a kinked fill hose, low house pressure, or clogged inlet screens.
Most likely: Start with both water supply faucets fully open, then check the hot and cold washer fill hoses for kinks and the washer inlet screens for sediment.
Separate this early: if the washer never seems to add water or fills very slowly, stay on this page. If it fills and then will not drain, that is a different problem. Reality check: LF is usually a plumbing-side restriction, not an expensive electronic failure. Common wrong move: replacing the washer water inlet valve before checking the hose screens packed with grit.
Don’t start with: Do not start by ordering a washer control board or tearing the cabinet apart. LF is much more often a water supply or inlet restriction problem.
If both hot and cold are weak at the wallFix the house water supply issue before chasing washer parts.
If water pressure is good and the screens keep cloggingSuspect a failing washer water inlet valve or heavy sediment in the supply lines.
Last reviewed: 2026-04-17
What LF looks like on this washer
Water trickles in very slowly
The washer does add some water, but it takes too long and eventually stops with LF.
Start here: Shut off the faucets, remove the fill hoses, and inspect the washer inlet screens for sand, rust, or scale.
Only hot or only cold seems to work
The washer fills on one temperature setting but not another, or it stalls on warm cycles.
Start here: Test hot and cold supply flow separately into a bucket so you can tell whether one side is restricted before blaming the washer.
LF shows up off and on
Some loads run normally, then the next one throws LF, especially after plumbing work or sediment disturbance.
Start here: Look for intermittent hose kinks, loose debris in the hose screens, or a washer water inlet valve that sticks after sitting.
Most likely causes
1. Partly closed or restricted water supply at the wall
LF means the tub did not reach the expected water level in time. A supply faucet that is not fully open or a weak house line is the most common reason.
Quick check: Turn both hot and cold faucets fully open and run each hose into a bucket for a few seconds to compare flow.
2. Kinked, crushed, or internally restricted washer fill hose
The washer may call for water normally, but a bent hose behind the machine can choke flow enough to trigger LF.
Quick check: Pull the washer forward carefully and inspect both fill hoses end to end for sharp bends, flattening, or swelling.
3. Clogged washer water inlet screens
Sediment from older plumbing often packs into the small screens where the hoses connect to the washer, slowing fill without any obvious leak.
Quick check: Shut off water, remove the hoses at the washer, and look directly at the inlet screens with a flashlight.
4. Failing washer water inlet valve
If supply pressure is good, hoses are clear, and screens are clean, the valve may be sticking or opening only one side.
Quick check: Listen during fill. A steady hum with weak flow after the supply checks points toward the washer water inlet valve.
Step-by-step fix
Step 1: Make sure this is really a fill problem, not a drain or lid problem
Error codes can get mixed up in real use. You want to stay on the right path before pulling hoses or buying parts.
- Start a normal cycle and listen for the first thing the washer tries to do.
- If you hear water trying to enter right away, or the tub starts filling very slowly, continue here.
- If the washer fills normally and later stops with standing water, your next issue is closer to a drain problem than an LF problem.
- If the washer will not start the cycle at all and acts like the lid is not recognized, the problem is likely elsewhere.
Next move: You confirmed the washer is struggling to fill, so the water supply path is the right place to start. If the symptom does not match a slow-fill problem, stop here and troubleshoot the actual code or cycle behavior instead.
What to conclude: This keeps you from chasing the wrong part when the washer is really dealing with a drain, suds, or lid-lock issue.
Stop if:
- The washer is leaking while you test it.
- The outlet, cord, or controls show burning smell, heat, or sparking.
- You are not sure which code is actually on the display.
Step 2: Check the wall faucets and basic water flow first
This is the fastest, safest check and it solves a lot of LF calls without touching the washer internals.
- Turn off the washer and pull it forward enough to reach the supply faucets safely.
- Make sure both hot and cold water supply faucets are fully open, not just cracked open.
- Place a bucket nearby, shut off one faucet, disconnect that hose from the washer side, then briefly open the faucet to confirm strong flow into the bucket.
- Repeat for the other hose so you know whether both sides have usable pressure.
Next move: If one faucet had weak flow and correcting it restores normal filling, run a full cycle and you are likely done. If both faucets have strong flow, move on to the hoses and inlet screens at the washer.
What to conclude: Good flow at the wall tells you the house supply is probably fine and the restriction is closer to the washer.
Step 3: Inspect the washer fill hoses for kinks and hidden restrictions
A hose can look fine from the front but be pinched flat behind the machine or partly collapsed inside.
- With both faucets off, inspect the hot and cold washer fill hoses from end to end.
- Straighten any sharp bends and make sure the washer is not sitting on or crushing a hose.
- If a hose is twisted, remove and reinstall it so it hangs naturally without strain.
- Look for bulges, soft spots, or heavy mineral buildup at the ends that suggest the hose is deteriorating internally.
Next move: If correcting a kink or replacing a damaged hose restores normal fill speed, the LF code should clear on the next cycle. If the hoses are in good shape and routed correctly, the next likely restriction is at the washer inlet screens.
Step 4: Clean the washer water inlet screens carefully
Sediment-packed screens are one of the most common real-world causes of LF, especially after plumbing work or in older homes.
- Shut off both water faucets and unplug the washer.
- Disconnect the fill hoses from the washer inlet side.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the small washer water inlet screens where the hoses attach.
- If the screens are coated with grit or scale, gently rinse or pick debris off without tearing or pushing the screen deeper into the valve body.
- Flush each hose into a bucket briefly before reconnecting so loose sediment does not go right back into the screen.
- Reconnect the hoses, open the faucets fully, check for leaks, and test a fill cycle.
Next move: If the washer now fills at a normal rate, the screens were the restriction and no part is needed right now. If the screens were clean or the LF code returns with good supply flow, the washer water inlet valve becomes the main suspect.
Step 5: Decide whether the washer water inlet valve is the likely fix
Once supply pressure, hose condition, and screen blockage are ruled out, the inlet valve is the main repair branch this symptom supports.
- Run a fill cycle and listen near the back of the washer.
- If you hear the valve energize but water flow is still weak or only one temperature side works, the washer water inlet valve is likely sticking or failing internally.
- If the washer fills normally on cold-only but fails on warm or hot, the hot side of the washer water inlet valve or hot supply path is the likely problem.
- If both hot and cold supply are strong, the screens are clean, and LF keeps returning, plan on replacing the washer water inlet valve.
- If the diagnosis still feels muddy, stop before buying more parts and have the washer tested in person.
A good result: Replacing a confirmed bad washer water inlet valve usually restores normal fill speed and clears the LF complaint.
If not: If a new valve does not change the symptom, the problem may involve wiring, pressure sensing, or control issues that are not good guess-and-buy repairs.
What to conclude: At this point you have ruled out the common external restrictions, so the washer's own fill valve is the most supported part failure on this page.
Replacement Parts
Repair Riot may earn a commission from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
FAQ
What does LF mean on an Amana washer?
LF usually means long fill. The washer expected the tub to reach a certain water level within a set time, but water came in too slowly or not at all.
Can low water pressure cause an LF code?
Yes. Weak house pressure, a partly closed supply faucet, or a restriction in one supply line can all trigger LF because the washer cannot fill fast enough.
Why does my washer show LF only on warm or hot cycles?
That usually points to the hot side. The hot wall faucet may be restricted, the hot washer fill hose may be kinked, or the hot side of the washer water inlet valve may not be opening properly.
Should I replace the washer water inlet valve right away?
Not yet. Check the wall faucets, hose condition, and washer inlet screens first. Those are more common and cheaper fixes than replacing the valve.
Is LF the same as a drain problem?
No. LF is a fill problem. If the washer fills but later leaves water in the tub, that is closer to a drain issue and needs a different troubleshooting path.
Will unplugging the washer clear the LF code?
It may clear the display temporarily, but the code will usually come back if the washer still cannot fill at the normal rate. Fix the water flow problem first.